Commander years

Joined
Jun 21, 2001
Messages
50
I see many of you suspects talking about acquiring specific year models of the various Emerson knives, particularly the Commander. Is there a difference between production years, or is it a goal of the collectors here to have a knife for each year of production? The '98 seems to be the most sought after, I'm assuming because that was the first year they were available to us civies.

Cheers
 
I am glad somebody has asked that question as I was asking it to myself yesterday...

I have just started to collect Em's, and for some reason want;

"2000 models, black blade with part serrations"

I have purchased a couple of others (not recieved yet) that differ from the above requirements, but I think I will try and trade to get the 2000 models with above specs.

I can not actually explain why I want only 2000 models though? No reason, I just do.

Is there any difference in the 2000 commander compared to others? Does anybody have a photo of a 2000 waved commander (the next in my list of most wanted)?

cheers

Guy
 
Gundy, Odysseus:

First, welcome to the EKI Forum.

Odysseus: The 98 is the ever sought Commander due to its thicker liners and scales. Many would consider the 98 the ultimate production Commander as the transitional production units were manufactured with thinner liners and scales (you will find a few 99's with a combination of thick liners and/or scales). Also, the 98 does not have the secondary pivot detent now incorperated in the production models. This makes the 98 very smooth!

gundy: I suggest you go to the search feature and pull up 98 Commander. There is a ton of information and you will get a comprehensive history of the 98 Commander vs. the newer models.
My first Commander (given to me by my wife as a wedding present) was a 2000 Commander-SFS which I have carried daily since our wedding day. This knife has seen extremely hard use and is still going strong. It is my primary blade on duty.

Guys, I hope this helps a little.
 
I've got a 2000 that has served me quite well. It was a BTS that I eventually stripped the black from and satined the blade. I use the 2000 HARD and it has never failed me.

Recently I acquired 98 Commander BT #028 and she's purrrrrrfect. Much smoother action than my 2000, and #028 feels......more refined yet more substantial in the hand. Simply excellent.

And more recently I adopted Mini Commander BTS #550. The Minis are shockingly good. Very solid, very sharp, and quite smooth.

So I carry both the 98 and Mini together daily. The 2000 comes out of the safe only when I know that I'm facing a day of heavy ranch chores. 2000 sacrifices itself in order to protect it's brood. :)

You can't go wrong with Commanders. Sure, the 98's are the most coveted and for very good reason; they're superb. But my 2000 is quite a knife and has never let me down.

Here's my #028 and #550 together.
 

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Eric:

I just finished looking at the historical string regarding your satin project, (what a coincidence). I was planning on working my 2000 Commander a la EB. When you used the wet/dry sandpaper, did you use it wet or dry? This project is going to be a lobour of love.
 
Hey Eric! I just noticed the flathead screws in the scales of your #28! Did you do that, or did it show up like that? As you know, I have #29, and MY scale screws are Phillips. I'm confused... :confused:

*EDIT* Weird! I also just noticed that your scale screws seem to rest on top of the scale, while mine are recessed into the scale, so the apex of the screwhead is under the plane of the scale. The mystery deepens...
 
Hey Raye, work with the paper dry, but when you get close to the desired finish go ahead and spread a thin coat of Flitz or Simichrome polish over the sandpaper and finish it off.

Chris, ALL screws on my 98 are flatheads (even the clip screws). They're all also countersunk although the picture really doesn't show the recessing adequately.
Maybe Vince at Blade Art was playing with your 98 and stripped all of the screwheads, so he replaced them with some Benchmade screws. :D
 
Chris, here's a pic I took this summer of Larry's 98 #674, and it has screws just like mine.

Perhaps you have a counterfeit piece. :p
 

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98s can be either philips or slotted screws. I have both types in different 98s.

Ray -
Check with JohnH or do a search. There's a chemically impregnated cloth that will strip the Black Coating off the blade but will leave it steely grey and retain the logo. Metal Magic?

http://www.midwayusa.com/online/prodsearch.exe/BuildLink?SaleItemID=623952

Missmanytoes has experience with this product. Search `Project Satin Commander' and see John's posting. I believe there's a picture of the finished product.
 
Hey Guys

If you do a search on "Screws", I made a resent post about the "flathead" v "Phillips" screws. During the first year of production it seemed that they used whatever they had on hand at the momont to assemble the knives. I've even seen a couple of knives that had one type for the body and the other for the clip. No big deal. Personally, I prefer the flatheaded screws, but almost without exception my production pieces have had Phillips.

Bob is correct. Sarah loves the finish that the Midway cloth leaves. Her intention was to strip the Black-T from her 98 Commander and Satin finish it. The cloth took the coating off in no time flat and left a dull "Steel Gray" look to the blade. It also left the logo intact. Interesting this is, the gray look is pretty damn cool and it seems to have kept the "Rust Resistance" qualities of the Black-T as she never seems to have any trouble out of the finish.
 
John - I remember the post, but not the specifics. How hard did she have to work the blade for the finish to come off? I'm thinking of trying this....

Eric - tell Vince he owes me a beer at Blade for stripping my damn screws! ;)
 
Originally posted by Eric Blair
Larry's 98 #674, and it has screws just like mine.

Perhaps you have a counterfeit piece. :p

I think the authenticity can only be determined by how well the box was crushed.
 
I took the BT off my Mach 1 with sandpaper and a polishing of Brasso. I too love the gunmetal finish it leaves. I haven't had any trouble with rust either.
 
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