I took that book out numerous times from my local library, and I learned the following things:
1) Oil? Who the heck needs to mess with that, wll, mess? Not I! Dry stones and a different way of caring for them is what I do on almost any stone now.
2) Relief is as important as an edge. Grind in good relief, and making an edge is easy and fast to do.
3) Double beveling is awesome
I have the Razor's Edge Pro kit, and I have observed the following:
1) The stones are great. My coarse stone lasted more than a few sharpenings. Yeah, it is "soft" but it works wonders. The fine stone puts a great edge on 440-C and ATS-34. You don't get super polished edges, but you do get great edges.
2) A folding smooth steel is the one thing Sal Glesser forgot to invent in the '70s along with the Sharpmaker. Thankfully, John Juranich did it for him! Man does that thing work like a charm. **Hint for you sharpmaker fans: Unscrew the screws int he folding steel and place the rods in the fishhook grooves of the sharpmaker stones and steel away. This tip cane from Sal himself.
3) I found the clamps took a while to get used to, but once you have a good understanding of them, you're good to go. ***I don't think they were intended for tools where you want really thick edges***
You are to grind in relief without the clamp on, and if you have good relief, grinding in an edge works real fast. yeah, the tool wears out too. Too bad John doesn't invent replaceable screw on bars for the clamp, but that is o.k. The clamps still work great, and wear little as long as you grind in good relief. You can order new clamps too, or maybe find them locally.
Another great sharpening book is the one by Leonard Lee, prez and founder of Lee Valley tools. He has pics from an electron microscope of stones and edges to back up his claims! Pretty cool.
Anyone out there still using oil? I think John Juranich told me to tell you to stick it in your crankcase! HAHAHA!
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