Companion Diasharp to Spyderco 306uf

R

ratje

Joined
Nov 7, 2010
Messages
7
Hello to all Knife ppl,
I have recently got a 306uf and have found that the finest diamond stone that i have leaves deep scratchs (relatively) they are from a cheap 3 stone set (red,yellow and blue), i would like to get a DiaSharp D8 to go before the 306 but cant decide between the C,E or EF any advice welcome, mainly sharpens mt Para2 S30v.
 
If you're looking to eliminate most/all scratches from your diamond hones, you're better off focusing on the F/EF/EEF (25 micron, 9 micron, 3 micron) end of the DMT diamond range, prior to going to the Spyderco ceramic. The 'grit' numbers won't translate, between diamond & ceramic. Even the finest diamond (DMT EEF, 3 micron) won't quite polish the edge as well as a 'Fine' or 'Ultra-Fine' ceramic. It's less about the size of the grit particles, and more about the aggressiveness with which they cut. Because the diamond is SO MUCH harder, it's smaller particles will cut more deeply into the steel, compared to ceramic (aluminum oxide) particles, which are likely larger, but won't cut near as deeply (effectively leaving a finer finish than the diamond).

You might even consider using medium or fine Spyderco ceramics, after the EF/EEF diamond, and before the UF ceramic.
 
Ok, probably the EF then, trying to keep amount of stuff to a minimum, it also needs to be able to grind out the micro bevel quick enough back to 15 degrees per side, I don't mind polising on the 306 but what i have now takes a lot of work. I used 2000 grit sandpaper (European grit P2000) after the diamond to give a more uniform scratch pattern the second time sharpening, it seemed to polish faster. I have non-continuous hones, which when pressed on to hard leave uneven scratch's. Need to finish saving, Thnx for answer
 
ratje said:
Ok, probably the EF then, trying to keep amount of stuff to a minimum, it also needs to be able to grind out the micro bevel quick enough back to 15 degrees per side, I don't mind polising on the 306 but what i have now takes a lot of work. I used 2000 grit sandpaper (European grit P2000) after the diamond to give a more uniform scratch pattern the second time sharpening, it seemed to polish faster. I have non-continuous hones, which when pressed on to hard leave uneven scratch's. Need to finish saving, Thnx for answer
Click to expand...

Like obsessed said "grit" numbers between different abrasives don't always add up. A jump from the DMT EF to the UF spyderco is still fairly large but is mainly a issue of how deep the abrasive cuts into the steel. Even using the DMT plates the jump from EF to EEF is at the limits of what the abrasive can do, the UF ceramic is finer yet so while it might be possible its not recommended. If you want to mix diamond with ceramic it would probably be better to use diamonds for the coarse work and the ceramics for the sharpening and finishing. So as a idea of stone sets that would work, 1) DMT coarse, spy ceramic m, f, UF. 2) DMT C, F, spy ceramic UF for microbes only. 3) spyderco ceramics. 4) DMT stones. (Mixing and matching different abrasives is not easy and not advisable for someone new to sharpening)

Using lots of pressure in general is bad for your edge and using any more than light pressure with diamonds is not only damaging to the stone but as you see the edge/bevel also suffers. The diamond stones you have now at the finest is around the same level as a DMT fine 600 mesh hone, in comparison the UF ceramic is like a 10,000 mesh stone.
 
I'm glad to get answers from two top hand sharpeners. I think i'll get the EEF to start with then and work backwards to the coarser abrasives if found necessary. It's mainly maintenance that's needed at this time and coarser stones and diamonds are more readily available. I would maybe like the other ceramics but I like to have the larger surfaces to work across, I have the idea that it helps keep my angle more constant, I have a very fine natural stone from my father used for keeping lathe tools sharp and polished but it is very small and trying to get the whole edge results in more horizontal swipes than vertical. This used to belong to my grandfather and I was very happy to get it becuase it polished steel very nicely (not a problem for 420HC) but S30V is a different story. Thanks for all advice, maybe some pictures if you would like to see my stuff/edge quality?
 
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