Competition finish

Joined
May 23, 2013
Messages
23
I just picked up my first Busse, it's a satin jack in competition finish can anyone explain the finish and if it needs special care as the summers in Manitoba get quite humid, thanks
 
Last edited:
Is it a jackhammer with the corrugated bevels? I don't remember any comp finish SJ's. It will make a difference if it is the old raw style or the new bead blasted style. Do you have a pic?

Possibly a BOSS jack Proto? Like the one on the bottom here but with fullers?
IMG_20120327_000951.jpg


If it is shaped Almost like the SJTAC second from the bottom above, and corrugated like the hellrazor below, then it is a jackhammer, will probably say 2008 SE on it, and that is what it will look like after a few years mineral oiled in 100% humidity most of the time.

IMG_20120902_090052.jpg
 
Last edited:
If its a Jackhammer, Hell Razor, or Sarsquatch it will have decarb, and you will need to sand it off because its easy to rust.
Try a medium grit, and then a scotch-bright pad. It would be a good idea to do under the handles as well if you know how to put the slabs back on.

The models after that didn't leave to factory with decarb. They still may have some dimples, and its a good idea to keep them oiled or waxed. Dimples can collect moisture, but they should be no problem like the models with decarb.
 
The comp finish SJTAC was released along with the HR, Squatch, JH and may have some decarb. Out of that ganza I bought the squatch and sjtac and still own both. The squatch gathered surface rust almost immediately but my sjtac has never had any issues whatsover with the surface rust decarb can cause. It acts just like my comp finished TGLB.

All that being said, the decarb rust does NOT penetrate the INFI. It is only surface rust. Nothing to sweat about in my book. Still, if you are concerned about the look of the knife just apply whichever oil you like best.

Best way to prevent rust is frequent use... moss doesn't grow on a rolling stone! :D


.
 
Back
Top