Complete Beginner: Kitchen Knife + Sharpening System

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Dec 11, 2013
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Since being laid off I have begun to put more and more time in the kitchen and have begun to dread using my chipped 20 year old knives. I'm tired of blowing up tomatoes and jabbing my hand trying to julienne.

I would like a chef's knife + paring knife and a sharpening system to keep them appreciably sharp.

I'm willing to put the maintenance time in to keep up a good knife but I'm terrified of ruining my brand new quality knife with inexperience. I would like to develop some sharpening skills so I'm open to suggestions about stones, good books, dvds etc.

Is it possible to have a good quality chef's knife and parer with a sharpening system in for around $ 100 ?

Thanks in advance, I apologize if this isn't the right place in the forum.
 
It is, but you will want to upgrade once you learn to properly sharpen.

for kitchen knives id suggest freehanding with a watwr stone, decent atones can range from.$10 to thousands. Chef knives, it depends what you make and your budget.

I personally like japanese knives but rarely will you get a quality knife under $200. But again, id get a cheapie to practice sharpening.

theres tons of videos online showing proper angles speed and pressure.
 
If you're up for learning to use water stones, then start there. If not, I think the lansky system is the best, most foolproof system that will get your knives real sharp (but without teaching you very much). The basic model can be had for under $30.
Thrift stores usually have several bins of assorted kitchen knives for super cheap. They are mostly garbage, but you can sometimes find good antiques in carbon steel. They don't know the difference so they price them the same. These can serve you well until you can find something better and you won't worry about ruining them as you learn to use your water stones.
If you want to get a better knife, look into the Tojiro DP series (I've never used one, but lots of people speak very highly of them). For not much more than $100, you can get a Tojiro 8" gyuto and a King 1000/6000 combination stone.

- Chris
 
Thrift stores usually have several bins of assorted kitchen knives for super cheap. They are mostly garbage, but you can sometimes find good antiques in carbon steel. They don't know the difference so they price them the same.
- Chris

How do I know the difference between crap and carbon steel? If its rusty/patina'd then its worth buying? Any articles or forum redirects?

Isn't 1000/6000 a really fine grade. Wouldn't I need something coarser to reshape things I found at the garage sales?
 
what knives do you have now, They may be salvageable given some TLC. My Mundials are 25+ yrs. old and still provide good service.

given budget limits this is a very good entry level knife, will take a good edge & give many yrs of service, keep it out of the dishwasher.

http://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-8-Inch-Chefs-Rosewood-Handle/dp/B0019WZEUE/ref=sr_1_3?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1386824743&sr=1-3&keywords=chefs+knives

Good all around medium stone.
http://www.japaneseknifesharpeningstore.com/Bester-1200-Sharpening-Stone-p/bstr1200.htm

a light touch up a couple of times a month should be all you need
 
My opinion based on my experience is get a budget stone from the hardware store, make a stable base for it that won't slip and slide on your sink/table, for around $10 you'll be set. I should clarify that you will be set for very coarse edges by most knife users standards.

The hardware store stones should handle simple steels at normal mass produced hardnesses very easily.

Beyond the basic setup, it only goes up in price and grit #.

That's just if you want to pursue freehand techniques and more traditional stone sharpening.

There is the scary sharp method that uses sandpaper on glass (or a flat polished flooring tile if you're thrifty)

Similar method, low startup and pretty low upkeep.

Then there are the other methods from cheap belt grinders, paper wheels all the way up (in my opinion at least) to the wicked edge and edge pro.

The edge pro has "clones" unlicensed ripoffs of the original that at least one person likes around here.

My thoughts on this is that form follows function and your time may be more expendable than your money, in that thought you can afford a lower quality mass produced blade and take more time sharpening.

Good edges are subjective since some will be happy at a few hundred grit and others will be upset at only a few thousand grit. (there is a grand unified grit chart in the maintenance tinkering and embellishment subforum stickies)
 
For chefs knives I second Victorinox, Forschner, or the Kai Wasabi line if you're looking for something decent and basic. You can save money on an 8 inch, but a 10 inch is more efficient. Your choice in length should also be relative to the size of cutting board you want to use. A rule of thumb is the knife should fit with a couple extra inches when placed diagonally on your cutting board. Plastic is okay, but cutting on a decent wood board is a joy. Maple is a personal favorite, avoid bamboo (itll kill your edge).

If you wanna step up to the $60-$100 you'll get a lot more options. Some Japanese brands to look for would be Fujiwara, Tojiro, and Richmond (American but Japanese inspired). All the knives they make are pretty good values. Stainless at this level is usually VG-10 or AEB-L (13C26 I think) for the Richmond knives and carbon is something by Hitachi usually.

If you wanna go French K-Sabatier and Thiers Issard sabatier can be had for under $100 for an 8 inch chef (the French carbons are particularly good, my 10 inch nogent carbon chef is probably my favorite knife). French knives also take well to a honing rod (a good fine honing rod is nearly a must with these knives, I like Idahone) where as most Japanese steel is too hard. The carbons are VERY easy to sharpen.

I would avoid German knives unless you get some old carbon stuff. They're not bad, but theres better value out there. Also if you're getting serious about cooking...a German shaped chefs knife doesn't reward you for good technique, where as the flatter (less belly, less "rocking" motion) profile of a French knife rewards good technique. Japanese knives are generally based on French profiles as well. The one notable exception would be most Shun knives, which tend to be more German in shape.

A quick thought on Shun (made by Kai, who makes Kershaw). They're knives are fine, but I lump them with the Germans. A lot of people are happy with them, but you can get better value for your money. As your knife skills get better you'll grow tired of most shuns just because they're not as efficient. Theyre fine knives, just not my cup of tea. The exception is the Wasabi line, they are just very high value in my experience.

For a paring knife get the cheap victorinox parers, can be had at kitchen stores for 3 bucks. You'll use your chefs for 90% of your work, put all the money there.

As for sharpening I use waterstones and edge pro. Edge pro really shines on small knives but is not great on something large (in my experience). I like waterstones, but oil stones are good too...really just up to your preference. I would recommend getting a waterstone in the 1000 grit range. You could also get a combo stone (lower than 1000 to repair and edge, above to get a less toothy edge). Norton makes a combo stone. King is usually pretty affordable for entry level waterstones. A side note, I learned to sharpen on waterstones with a Shun Classic 8 inch. Still works fine albeit a little scratched up. I think the worry about messing up a new knife is overblown. As long as you learn the basic thought process behind sharpening most errors will be fixable.

Possible kit:
$60- Tojiro ITK Shirogami Wa-Gyuto 210mm
$35- King 1000 stone
$5- Victorinox/Forschner plastic handled paring knife
Total=$100 (not including tax or shipping)

Extras:
$30- Fine ceramic idahone rod
$30- 16x10 Boos maple board

To wrap up, its entirely possible. It really just depends on how you want to divide your spending money.
 
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