I got a pretty nice paddle shop recently and I've been using it with just the plain cow leather and it's actually been doing pretty good. I've had several people suggest that I need to get some compound on it to really see any abrasive action out of it. I'm not looking for an extreme polish or anything I just want the extra refinement from stropping and the quick maintenance of it.
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Compound or no compound?
- Thread starter KennyB
- Start date
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 7,743
If it's working well for you you're good.
I prefer compound on my strops, but there's nothing wrong with using it untreated.
I prefer compound on my strops, but there's nothing wrong with using it untreated.
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
- Messages
- 13,435
I tend to view a bare strop that works as something not to be tinkered with. Pretty much any smooth & flat substrate can get the job done with compound. But bare leather that produces a good result is a blessing. I'd not mess with it, at least until you're well-acquainted with it's performance. If it consistently produces good results over a span of time, I'd let it be. Just keep it clean and conditioned.
David
David
Last edited:
I can't help but feel like I'm getting a bit of a "placebo" effect sometimes when using it. Then other times I take a fairly dull knife and it definitely gets it sharper. I think part of the desire to have compound is for there to be a definitive abrasive action. Also, how exactly do you clean and condition a strop?
I might just pick up another one to use with compound. My strop is a Looking Sharp "Slither" Jumbo Paddle Strop... Facebook page Anyone have experience with it here? They're quite nice, but yeah I've had the same feeling of not wanting to put compound on it and losing just the nice bare leather.
I was wondering maybe there's a way to put compound on just one half of it? Or would that just lead to grit contamination issues? I dunno, I just feel like with something like a 1 micron compound on it it would be a lot faster and would still give me similar results but I've only ever used CrO on balsa and some upholstery leather and it just never even did half as much as the bare leatheron this strop does.
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
- Messages
- 13,435
This is partly why I suggested taking some time to get acquainted with it. I sometimes use a leather belt (a portion with green compound, and a bare portion) like a hanging strop for simple carbon steels and low-alloy stainless (420HC, etc.). I keep going back to it, after trying other methods, because it has consistently added some pop to my edges with these steels. It's especially useful in just a few swipes after each use of my blades. With other steels however, not so much. I'm content to reserve the belt for special use on the simpler stuff, so I haven't attempted to use it with other compounds.
As for keeping the leather conditioned, just some leather conditioner will work. Member 'Stitchawl' has made some good posts on the topic; he's sometimes recommended Lexol Leather Conditioner, and also shoe cream (NOT polish/wax, but cream).
The leather belt I mentioned, it has a roughly 12"-16" section with green compound, and the remainder is bare. I'd always expect to have some cross-contamination when used this way; it comes down to whether you're willing to tolerate some of that or not. As I'd mentioned earlier, pretty much any smooth/flat surface (leather or not), so long as it can actually imbed compound and hold it, will work fine with compound. If it were mine right now, I'd find/use something different with the compound; another strip of veg-tanned leather, or fabric, or paper or whatever. You may reach a point where you're not as satisfied with the bare-leather performance of your strop anymore, or you'll find some other strop or combination that works better. If you're like me, you might then decide to 're-purpose' this strop for use with another compound of your choosing.
David
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2006
- Messages
- 2,809
If you do get the 2 nd strop for compound, I would strongly suggest you get a spray or paste Cubic Boron Nitride, (CBN) or Poly-diamond.
It's a good bit more expensive initially than the "crayons" but it's easy to apply, cuts like crazy even at .1 micron, and a little bitty bottle lasts forever.
For treating your strop, I've found Fromm's Strop Dressing to work very well. Most barber and razor supply stores carry it, and a 4 oz bottle will last a lifetime.
It's a good bit more expensive initially than the "crayons" but it's easy to apply, cuts like crazy even at .1 micron, and a little bitty bottle lasts forever.
For treating your strop, I've found Fromm's Strop Dressing to work very well. Most barber and razor supply stores carry it, and a 4 oz bottle will last a lifetime.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 7,743
I've started using Lexol (I have a lot for my motorcycle leathers) on a strop. Can't really tell much of a difference, but I went very sparingly as I do anything I apply to my strops.
David, have you made a direct comparison between veg tanned and chromium leather? I'm wondering if my chromium leather works really well because of its physical (super thin/velvety nap) and chemical traits.
David, have you made a direct comparison between veg tanned and chromium leather? I'm wondering if my chromium leather works really well because of its physical (super thin/velvety nap) and chemical traits.
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
- Messages
- 13,435
I'd used some Lexol on that leather belt I mentioned; I think the main thing about using it or another leather conditioner is to just keep the leather from getting too dry (more important if/when solvents may be used to clean it). In terms of changing the feel or performance while stropping, I hadn't noticed much or any difference either. I HAVE noticed the belt has retained some nice flexibility & suppleness, as compared to other leather belts I've had before. How much of that is due to the leather itself, and how much due to the conditioning, I'm not sure.
I haven't done any direct/deliberate comparisons between veg-tanned and chrome-tanned leather. I've read that the chrome-tanning process may strip leather of much of it's natural silicate content, which I assume would diminish it's abrasiveness and polishing capability, if used bare. On the other hand, if used with some applied compound, I'd think only the other physical traits like firmness/nap would be relevant to stropping performance on it.
David
I used some leather off of my couch, which I've been assured was most likely chromium tanned. The nap was VERY nappy, and I applied CrO to it but for a while felt like I had quite the same "placebo" effect of it "is it really doing anything" as I'm having with this strop, but to the contrary I can actually visually see a reduction in the most shallow scratch/grind marks and can see it getting more polished.
I made a double sided paddle a while back after learning about straight razor strolling and maintenance. A lot of those guys use hard felt loaded with chromium oxide spray. I scored some hard felt at Wally world and glued it to a board. Spray on and let it dry a while. The other side I have some latigo leather. I just kind of blow hot breath on it and rub my palm over it. That makes for a hair whittling/popping finish. 