Compression Lock(stick)

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Jun 24, 2016
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416
A little surprised at the amount of lock stick on a new PM2 - mostly after hard opening flicks. It hasn't smoothed out after opening it a hundred times or thereabouts, so I guess I'll have to live with it unless someone knows a fix.
 
Doesn't matter, but I would keep flicking away for a while and see if it breaks in bro. Had one that did the same thing, I lubed it with Ballistol and let it sit over night. It went away.
 
I had one like that. I put a drop of TufGlide on the detent and worked the blade a bit. Broke in nicely. Some just need a little TLC.
 
Doesn't matter, but I would keep flicking away for a while and see if it breaks in bro. Had one that did the same thing, I lubed it with Ballistol and let it sit over night. It went away.
I'll could try a drop of oil but I don't want any migrating underneath the translucent natural G-10 scales and leaving a visible blotch. Meantime, I'll keep flicking away:)
 
Just a small amount in the pivot and then flick that bitch!!!
It'll stop!
Joe
 
I had one like that. I put a drop of TufGlide on the detent and worked the blade a bit. Broke in nicely. Some just need a little TLC.
The detent's fine - it's the thin piece of lock that inserts between the stop pin and blade tang when the blade's open. The lock gets hung up on the slot in the tang. The harder I flick it, the further the compression lock insert moves across the tang and gets "stuck."
 
I had a PM2 that did that, and it seemed to get no better. I worked it right up until the end of my return window and it got worse. The lock seemed to keep working further across the tang. I returned it to the retailer with full disclosure. My new knife had no lock stick, but did have blade play issues. The third was the charm! I think the QC on Golden blades can be a little spotty.

I think you can send it back for service, even if you aren't the first owner. That might be your best bet. When you get a good PM2, they're such a sweet blade!
 
Put some graphite (pencil lead) on the blade tang where the lock bar goes. Don't put oil on it as oil is usually the cause of lock stick.

If that doesn't help disassemble and clean any oil off everything but the pivot.

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My pm2 has lock stick, not very severe but definitely can be felt. I have tried tuf glide, wd40, granite, and soap water but none seemed to help. I have opened and closed it many times (definitely more than a few hundred times). I wonder if it has sth to do with the dlc coating.
 
Put some graphite (pencil lead) on the blade tang where the lock bar goes. Don't put oil on it as oil is usually the cause of lock stick.

If that doesn't help disassemble and clean any oil off everything but the pivot.

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I hit the area of contact with a Sharpie which did nada. Disassembly voids Spyderco's warranty (which I may not have anyway, since I bought it here on the Exchange). Bottom line, it sounds like PM2's are prone to this problem, which is something I didn't know before buying.
 
Did you line it Otto?? Lube will only cause lock stick if the lock face is Ti. No Ti on a PM2......try a little lube in the pivot.
My jade PM2 had it and lube solved it.
If you'd like to send it in, you can. Doesn't matter if you're the second owner. Just hope previous owner didn't take it apart. Give them a call and explain the problem.
Good luck!
Joe
 
Hey, thanks for the thoughts, Joe. Question: Why lube the pivot? Seems to me the lock tab is the culprit - like a burr is hanging up on either the tang or stop pin.
 
I hit the area of contact with a Sharpie which did nada. Disassembly voids Spyderco's warranty (which I may not have anyway, since I bought it here on the Exchange). Bottom line, it sounds like PM2's are prone to this problem, which is something I didn't know before buying.
Use pencil lead and alot...i did this a few times with a pm2 and within a week or 2 all stick was gone...sharpie didn't help mine either
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Sharpie tends to last longer for me but maybe that is just with titanium to steel. Not sure. If the pencil wears off quick try letting the sharpie dry for a little while first it can help.

And I'd say 3 of six para I have owned were sticky. All reliable and smooth opening.
 
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Without disassembling, you can loosen the stop pin screws slightly, rotate/turn the stop pin 90deg, and tighten. Sometimes there are fine vertical machining marks on the stop pin that causes the sticking. You might also want to experiment with pivot and stop pin screw torques.

I have also sometimes seen burrs on the liners near the pivot, which could cause misalignment problems, but you'll have to disassemble to see this.
 
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