concerns about stripping the blade coating?

Runs With Scissors

Runs With Scissors

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Dec 3, 2000
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So, I got my First Izula and RC-3 a couple days ago, and I'm real impressed with 'em and all...but...

I'm really not a big fan of blade coatings, and usually end up stripping the coating off, mirror polishing it, and letting it just get blackened and ugly with use.

So...I know the finish adds some modicum of blade thickness, but was wondering about the sheath fit afterwards? I realize these sheathes aren't kydex, So...I'm guessing you can just hold 'em over the kitchen range top and mush 'em down a little more if they get loose.

I know if I did remove the blade coating I wouldn't be the first. Just wondering how the knife to sheath fit works out once the finish is gone?

Sorry if my post seems a little...on the anal side. I just don't really care if my knife gets discolored and ugly, but I'm pretty uptight about sheath retention, and I'm still thinking things through.

thanks!
 
The sheath may have a bit of play after the coating is removed - if this is a major issue, just have a custom sheath made.
 
My Izula fits as snug as ever after it's been stripped.

I don't know this for sure, but I am guessing that the knife/knives that are actually used by the guys over at ESEE to fit and mold the sheaths with is probably not coated, so it may actually fit better. That's just a guess, and someone can feel free to correct me if I'm wrong...
 
My 4 has only developed the slightest rattle in the stock kydex sheath after I stripped it. If it starts to bug me I will just dip it in hotwater and re-press it.

You should have no problems. And as tarditi said, a custom kydex sheath will remedy it as well =)
 
You can reshape the sheath yourself or apply your own custom paint to the knife. Krylon finds its way onto alot of my knives and guns.
 
Go for it ! well except for heating the injection molded sheath ?? that could get tricky
I'd strip the izula and the factory sheath should still hold fine that is your main concern is retension not rattle ... or strip izzy & have a kydex sheath made for it
 
Awright. I'll go ahead and do it. Dunno when- I'm trying to catch up on my fridge list and pack up before heading back to work.

I have plenty of leather, lacing, dye, needles for a leather sheath, or I might have a little bit of kydex and a couple rivets.

I can experiment with the sheathes, buy a couple more, etc...lots of options out there. I just didn't want to strip the finish off the knife, and find myself with zero blade retention, and hindering my enjoyment of my new toys.

Thanks!
 
I stripped my 4 and Izula after the coating was wearing down good and the retention on the factory sheaths is still great but there is some rattle. I don't use my factory sheaths much anymore but you can't even hear the rattling when wearing them unless I take the sheaths off my belt and shake them.
 
Runs With Scissors,

Time wise it's not too hard. Most of the work is done just soaking the knife. I had to spend a little time gloving up and scraping or scrubbing when I did mine. But that totaled up at maybe half an hour of my time. The rest was me watching movies or doing work around the house while it soaked.

Have fun and God bless,
Adam
 
I have a 3-4-6 all stripped of their coatings and still using the factory sheaths w/o an issue
I stripped mine , No gloves took less than 5 minutes to remove coating per blade
 
I was leaning towards just hitting it with paint stripper, letting it work for ten minutes, then scraping it with a putty knife. About three cycles of that seems like it would do the majority of the ugly work. After that moving onto scotch brite pads for a half hour or so, then hit it on the buffing wheel from coarse through extra fine rouge....seems like that should do it.

Are there any better methods I should be aware of?

Thanks for all your insight, folks. It is truly appreciated.
 
Runs With Scissors,

You may need to let the knife "soak" for more than ten minutes per go. I let mine sit about an hour per and that seemed to work well. But, I say give it a try, worst thing that can happen is you go, "oh, it needs to sit there longer between bouts." Best of luck, have fun with the little project. Oh, don't forget to wear gloves. Anything that can strip that coating off HAS to be bad for... everything.

God bless,
Adam
 
i've seen some reports of stripped Izulas fittnig a little looser in the sheath, but then there's several people here in this thread saying theirs don't.
 
RC-3 is done. I took the finish off the blade, but left it all around the handles, which looks a little funky, but works pretty well.

So far I've only spent 20 minutes with the red rouge, and it's still pretty dark from the factory, which is surprising, but not bothersome. As long as the blade's smooth I'm happy.

I probably won't be doing the Izula for awhile. My wife is currently working on a real fancy cord wrap job for me, and she'd be pretty irate if I were to screw up her cord wrap or uglify the knife before she even finishes.
 
Runs With Scissors,

I don't know if this is what you're dealing with, but I did forget to mention something. When I stripped the coat off my Izy, I was left with a darkish gray layer that I thought was the bare metal. When I went to patina it it oxidized red. I wound up having to us some... I don't remember precisely what they are called. They are like sponges with a sandpaper finish. They are for sanding down wood between stain coats. That finally took the gray off and I could patina. Maybe that little bit of info will help.

God bless,
Adam

PS: Post us up a pic of this wrap job your wife is doing, it sounds very interesting!
 
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