Hi,
Right now, I've got a Mora Classic #1 which I can easily sharpen in the field using my CC4. I sharpen it to zero grind (and it works well). I've been discussing a new knife I want to buy lately and I ended up with three options - all Condor 1075 scandi. Now I wanted to give it a zero scandi grind but I've been told that this steel is too soft to handle such a thin grind, and that I should either
a) convex it, or
b) make a microbevel.
I would like to know which of those do you recommend, please, and how to do it.
I've never covexed a knife and when I was making a secondary bevel on my previous Mora #2/0, I was never able to make it a scandi knife again because I used a terribly wide angle (local sharpener told me I should go buy a new knife rather than having him to fix it) - so I'm afraid of adding a bevel to scandi now.
PS: At home, I use stones - a Tyrolit 150/320 and a Taidea 1000.
Well,
people that say "scandi" tend to know "jack" about steel or what it can do
so don't listen to them
so what I think what you want you should do ,
it depends on where your joy lies,
but I says make it into a knife
Cause its possible
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8IZq5H7AyY Published on Oct 21, 2012
A simple regrind of a Condor Bushbuddy to a full flat grind to increase the cutting ability and much more to the ease of sharpening.
This was one of the first Condor experiments with this style of grind and they didn't understand that it isn't that the knives are single bevel that they cut well it is because the bevels have very low angles. Condor made them with very thick convex grinds that even when flattened would cut poor as the angles could be 20-30 dps.
This modification only takes 5-10 minutes per side even on a 1" belt sander with a 36 grit ceramic belt but care needs to be taken to prevent the edge from over heating as since it is full height it is very thin and the edge is only 0.005" thick so there is no ability to heat sink.
Discussion :
Condor Bushbuddy - regrind to full flat
Extreme Regrind : Condor Bushbuddy (minimum apex bevel thickness for functional durability) - YouTube Published on Oct 31, 2012
I recently reground the BushBuddy from the common low single bevel grind to a very high (full) flat grind :
http://www.cliffstamp.com/knives/forum/read.php?7,6104
After receiving the Nilakka and reading the reports of the edge failures I was curious at what point would the BushBuddy fail if it was converted to a full (zero) grind.
As it is a very inexpensive production knife in 1075 at 57-59 HRC it should set a low end benchmark (when compared to high end knives).
To start the edge was between 0.010" to 0.020" thick, sharpened at 10 dps. It was used to cut :
-rigid foam
-cardboard, various types
-synthetic rope
-pine, hardwood flooring, plywood
-plastic pop bottles, aluminum pop bottles
-screw ties (similar to zip ties but heavier)
-food cans
The food can rolled the edge only in the very apex. The knife was then thinned out with a 24 grit Nubatama
http://www.cliffstamp.com/knives/forum/read.php?3,5870
and the cutting was reran with the apex bevel thickness at :
-0.005" to 0.010"
-0.003" to 0.006"
and finally true zero, with only a micro bevel at 10 dps. The damage at the true zero was still limited to the food can cutting and was only 0.002" deep, barely visible.
As a point of clarification, I had thought I was doing this with a 5 dps primary grind and an apex bevel, however it turns out there was a 7.5 dps transition bevel starting at 0.025".
I later removed this transition bevel on the Nubatama as well so now it is a true 5 dps primary with no transition or apex bevel, still a micro-bevel at 10 dps.
Discussion :
http://www.cliffstamp.com/knives/forum/read.php?7,6332
Technical lingo :
-primary bevel, the grind which reduces the main body of the blade to a taper or cutting profile
-apex bevel, the grind which forms an apex (the cutting edge)
-transition bevel, used between the primary and apex (not always necessary)
-micro-bevel, not visible extremely narrow bevel used to deburr and/or stabilize the apex
