Condor Rodan : Day 1 Test Run

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Apr 10, 2011
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I recently picked up a Condor Rodan as a bush beater to either use as a "borrower" or a day-hike knife. I used it for about 3 hours today in the wet Ohio woods. Everything that I've read about it compares it to the Becker BK2 as a "cheap" version of The Beast but I have to disagree, it's more of the love child between a Mora and a BK2. Here's the initial review:

The Condor Rodan comes with a very fine, heavy duty leather sheath (BK2 for comparison) :

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The one thing to note is that it's a hanger only. I prefer to slide my woods knife around my back so it's out of the way and the Rodan dangler is pretty obtrusive to me but it's not bad. Retention is good but definitely leather friction-only. There is no plastic or kydex in the leather. It is VERY heavy duty, very well made and impressive for being included with the knife.

The Condor Rodan's edge is a highly polished Scandi grind :

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If you have used a Scandi before, you know the score...Easy to sharpen, easy to get mad sharp, "holds an edge" for a long time because 1/4 of the blade IS the edge...etc. I've found that they ARE easier to get very sharp. The Rodan's Scandi grind has a very shallow angle on it so the initial bite into wood is deep and effective. The Rodan's edge comes from the factory with some kind of anti-rust wax or poly coating that makes it drag on soft materials until it wears off. The edge was shaving sharp out of the box so I didn't bother touching it up until today. I can tell you that the 1075 used in the Rodan is a good steel and I was able to polish it back to mirror status using only 2000 grit paper, some Ballistol and a microfiber. I did notice that it rusts in a matter of hours though if ignored. The rust was very superficial however but it's something to remember considering how much of the Rodan's edge is unprotected. The blade is not as thick as a BK2 but not as thin as a Mora so again, it's almost a "Jack of All Trades" blade in that regard. The coating on the blade appears to be a black epoxy, since I've only used it for a few hours in total today I can't tell how it will hold up but it appears to be weathering damage well enough.

Handling the Handle :

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Okay, here's the deal. The handle is not that comfortable. Sure, handling the Rodan at home makes it feel like a great knife. The balance is right, the handle is thick, there are no hot spots, etc. Well, this is one of those that you have to use to figure out. Within 10 minutes of wood work I realized the problem, the handle is tear-drop shaped, leaving a curve that pushes into the hand meats right between your thumb and index finger. It's not sharp, it's just enough to be annoying. On this outing I had my BK2, a Mora Triflex and an ESEE 3. If you look at the backs of those knives, the spine by the handle is flat, like your hand meats if you put your thumb to your index finger, or hold a knife handle...so I'm not sure what Condor was thinking here. The blade is perfect for bush work, it's a beefy Mora and yet it's stuck with this weird handle that creates uncomfortable spots. I'm going to try to sand down the "bulge" so it's more of a knife handle instead of whatever it is now...

Overall, if you're looking for a "big Mora" go for it. This is NOT however, a replacement for the BK2. The BK2 is a chopping monster at 1/4". The Rodan doesn't have the weight to fight in the BK2's class. Also, where the BK2's grind lends itself to splitting and prying, the Rodan's Scandi grind means that you've got a lot less mass where it counts and you're risking your edge getting crazy with the blade. If you're looking for a Mora on steroids however, this is your guy.

At the end of the day, it's cheap, sharp, useful and I'm pretty sure some 200 grit against that handle will knock that annoyance down in a sec.
 
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Nice review of my most used woods knife! I agree with your assessment that, despite having a similar profile, the Rodan is NOT a similar knife to the BK2. Gotta' love how it slices through wood like a Mora though. :)

The Rodan isn't a scandi grind, but rather a full flat grind with a thin and shallow convex edge. Also, you don't need to worry about durability with bationing/chopping/digging/prying as I've done plenty of that over the course of the past couple of years (even on frozen wood in sub-zero temps) and it's held up fine. The shape of the handle that you describe sounds like the plastics mold may have been slightly off and it caused that ridge. I've seen that happen from time to time, and you are correct that a little time with some sandpaper will clear it right up. Once you take care of that, it ought to be quite comfortable for you. :cool::thumbup:
 
The Rodan has one of the more stupid and useless choils i have seen. If Moras had such design features, no one would care for them.
 
The Rodan has one of the more stupid and useless choils i have seen. If Moras had such design features, no one would care for them.

It does seem odd that it looks like it is supposed to be a sharpening choil (which I prefer), but they didn't sharpen the blade all the way to the end. I have blade with a similar semi-choil and I must admit I find it annoying.
 
I find the choil on mine handy for choking up on the blade for power cuts, but that's just me. :o
 
Knife features are like most other things: you either love em or you hate em. I love usefull choils, usefull jimping. You may not use them often, but when you do, they are worth thier weight in gold. :D Good review.
 
I bought my Rodan when they 1st became available. It seemed too good to be true and it wasn't going to break the mold. It arrived with a sheath set up for lefties. A quick email brought a right hand sheath about a month later - so no charge - no problems. :)

My Rodan never would and still won't slice a peice of copy paper. Skipping past the ridiculous handle to blade ratio, the scandi or FFG blade edge is so dull that I ended up with my machete bastard file to finally get a raggedy edge on it that would allow it to possibly be batoned (if it didn't shatter) and is the hardest stuff I've messed with (or maybe the most obtuse grind?).

I tried a big old coarse/fine benchstone - wouldn't touch it - DMT diafolds & aligner - wouldn't touch it either, so the file and much cursing finally tore a tiny 1/8th" bevel on in after a good while. A butchers steel has the raggedy edge standing somewhat in a straight enough line to feel a little sharpness. The whole wide silver looking grind appears to me - to be painted and baked on.

So it's a bargain at $35? I'd say buy 4 Mora Classic 1's or one of their higher end models and get a real knife. What a shame. I'm not one bit angry about my Rodan despite my scathing post. My Daddy told me "you get what you pay for," and I did. :D :thumbdn:
 
The lefty sheaths, if I remember correctly, were the second run of them. Mine is one of the ones that came with the original "sandwich" type sheath rather than the present "taco" type. Retention was poor, and the belt loop was riveted instead of stitched so it flopped around a lot. I later got a new sheath for it free of charge from the company and it's been at my side ever since. Perhaps yours was overhardened? It never takes me more than a couple of strokes with a fine diamond stone to touch mine up. I know they've had trouble in the past with spotty heat treatments like that, though they've MOSTLY corrected it now. I'd ask Condor to swap it for you. I've pried with MY Rodan...but I don't think I'd want to with yours, by the sounds of it! :eek::p
 
The lefty sheaths, if I remember correctly, were the second run of them. Mine is one of the ones that came with the original "sandwich" type sheath rather than the present "taco" type. Retention was poor, and the belt loop was riveted instead of stitched so it flopped around a lot. I later got a new sheath for it free of charge from the company and it's been at my side ever since. Perhaps yours was overhardened? It never takes me more than a couple of strokes with a fine diamond stone to touch mine up. I know they've had trouble in the past with spotty heat treatments like that, though they've MOSTLY corrected it now. I'd ask Condor to swap it for you. I've pried with MY Rodan...but I don't think I'd want to with yours, by the sounds of it! :eek::p

Thanks man, you helped me get the right sheath mailed to me and I appreciate it. I'm so sick of that POS Condor Rodan (spent several hours trying to get it sharp, then tossed it in my car glovebox) that I wouldn't spend another $.10 on shipping it back to them. Why should we suffer with their birth pangs?

They should - as knifemakers - at least make a 1/2 *ssed knife, but this thing is ready for one of my bullet splitting tests. They're always challenging and fun while relieving me of stress induced rage. :D I'll never buy anything from Condor again - ever! :barf:
 
Thanks man, you helped me get the right sheath mailed to me and I appreciate it. I'm so sick of that POS Condor Rodan (spent several hours trying to get it sharp, then tossed it in my car glovebox) that I wouldn't spend another $.10 on shipping it back to them. Why should we suffer with their birth pangs?

They should - as knifemakers - at least make a 1/2 *ssed knife, but this thing is ready for one of my bullet splitting tests. They're always challenging and fun while relieving me of stress induced rage. :D I'll never buy anything from Condor again - ever! :barf:

As a note, they actually send you a return label, so you don't spend anything out of pocket to send it back. ;) I know Joe just got back from El Salvador working on addressing some of their "growing pains" so maybe he'll be able to chime in. I hear you with the QC issues--right now it seems like you either get a really great one or a really awful one. I've been lucky with MOST of my stock so far. There have only been a few pieces reported back that have had HT problems, and all the other problems I've been able to catch in inspection (with one exception that slipped past me--whoops! I can admit that though.:o) Most of them have been minor cosmetic blems.
 
I went out and fetched my Rodan after reading this and in the noon sunlight I could ee the layer of protective varnish or something they had on the edge. I decided to have another go at it with a DMT x-coarse stone and that did the trick.

I was able to finally get it screaming sharp. I did have problems with a wire edge or multiple burrs, flipping back and forth. By the time I got to an X-fine hone, it was still flipping and no amount of drawing it through a cork or cardboard would remove them completely. My strops did remove them though and now I have one very sharp knife. I wish the handle was a ittle thinner for better control of the knife's sharp blade.

I'll be trying it out in the next few days to see what retention is like for my new edge - about 40* inclusive. Gasoline got that protectant off easily. I plan on blending the V edge into a full convex edge next, just for a "something to do" project. :D
 
If you're looking for a "big mora" then the Hultafors heavy duty knife more than fits the bill, and I can buy 3 for the price of the Rodan and have enough in change for a packet of cigarettes
(( deal spotting ))
 
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Yeah, I used some B-12 ChemTool and it blew it away. Followed-up with 2000 grit when she needed it and it's a great edge. Still working on the hump back.

Mine doesn't seem to have the hump back but I haven't layed into it yet. I'll post back - I cut my finger wiping the blade down and an invisible burr or bit of wire edge sliced me a little, right through the cloth. Thank goodness I got it stropped out nice & clean. Such work & mixed emotions over a cheap knife. Heck I might even end up liking it in the end! :D
 
Seriously I've pounded the snot out of mine and it's held up great. I just find myself reaching for it more than any of my other woods knives.
 
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