cone shaped sander to round out the spydie hole?

7

72jroberts

Joined
Mar 16, 2012
Messages
277
I know I am not using the best terminology,
but what I am looking for is a cone shaped tool that I can radius out/smooth out the edge on some of my spydercos- namely the budget line ones, I have the tenacious,persistence, and the resilience that I want to take off the tiny sharp edge on the hole, so they dont bite into my thumb as much.
My pm2 and my manix's all have more of a refined feel- I don't need to do anything to them.

any solutions?
Thanks,
John
 
I love the edge on my Spydies!!!! I wouldn't do that man it will make it more difficult to flick it open imho.
 
Go to Lowe's, Home Depot even Wal-Mart look where the Dremel tools are you'll find a tapered grinding bit, use it by hand or under a very slow/slowest rpm possible that should break the edge on the hole.

I bought a Case Sodbuster Jr. and the spine of the blade was ground at 90° makin' it hard as h e double hockey sticks so all I did was take my little diamond hones and run it at a 45° to the spine and it took the bite outta back of the spine.
 
Just about every tool truck or store like Harbor Freight will have 1/4 " shank grinder stones shaped like a cone. I use a Dotco pneumatic right angle grinder or an inline pneumatic tool to grind and bevel holes, an electric drill will do the job for you also.
 
Wrap some wet/dry sandpaper around a pencil or dowel rod and smooth the edges for the opening hole. 600 grit will probably do the job and if you want to polish it out go up the higher grades of wet dry. Cheap solution.
 
Fine sandpaper and a marble will take care of it in a minute or two, as will the end of a SharpMaker rod. You don't need to hog off a bunch of steel, just break the edge of the hole. It doesn't take much. Think how easy it is to dull the cutting edge with sandpaper.
 
Whitedog said:
Wrap some wet/dry sandpaper around a pencil or dowel rod and smooth the edges for the opening hole. 600 grit will probably do the job and if you want to polish it out go up the higher grades of wet dry. Cheap solution.
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This is what I would do that way you can make it even. Would not suggest a power tool. I think you will find it is not going to take much to get what you want.
 
yablanowitz said:
Fine sandpaper and a marble will take care of it in a minute or two, as will the end of a SharpMaker rod. You don't need to hog off a bunch of steel, just break the edge of the hole. It doesn't take much. Think how easy it is to dull the cutting edge with sandpaper.
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Bingo! If you work slowly and carefully, you can even just wrap the sandpaper around your thumb.
 
yeah, no need for power tools or high grits for this job. I do this to almost all of my spyderco's. I use a small scrap of 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper. wrap around a finger and polish the edge of the hole.
 
A couple of the early Sage's I got were like that.
I used a Spyderco rod on the first, and got a few scatches around the hole. I could have been more careful.
Used a rat tail file on the second one, and it worked great.

If you don't have a rat tail file just use sandpaper.
 
I agree with everyone else here, just a piece of medium grit wet/dry would work fine. I prefer 400 over 600 though, it works a little quicker and gives it a nice feel.
I have also seen a guy once at a machine shop I worked in take a carbide chamfer bit and a vertical mill and put a tiny 90 degree chamfer on the hole, then took down the sharp angles with 1000 grit emery clothe. That felt and looked very nice actually. I almost did it to my cricket but I ended up trading it before I got around to doing it on a break.
 
I've done this on all my budget folders. I use a ball type stone and just turn it by hand. It only takes a few revolutions and your done. You'll be much happier with it when your done.
 
Funny - I like mine a bit sharper. I don't know how they ever worked with the old chamfered holes. Maybe my big-ass thumbs are thicker. I don't know. If they're not sharp enough, I sharpen them. Please, don't use a power tool - just fine sandpaper like has been suggested. Works great, and you won't ruin the blade.

- best wishes, Jazzz.
 
It works better if it is sharper. Only very large ones like the Paramilitary 2 are decent if they are deburred.
 
Yeah, I used a white Sharpmaker rod.

Be warned, it takes much less than you think.

Go easy, if you round it off too much it makes it more difficult to open.

I totally agree that the edge needs to be broken though.
 
Thanks guys,
I will take your suggestions not to use a power tool. actually, I was just going to use my dremel at low speed. but Im in no hurry and now I know what to do.
John
 
Mr. Sogetsu said:
It works better if it is sharper. Only very large ones like the Paramilitary 2 are decent if they are deburred.
Click to expand...

I like the sharp edges myself. My B____made AFCK's have rounded edges and they are much less secure for me to open.

The biggest cautions for this job:
1) as mentioned, you only have to take off a little bit
2) be very careful- if you slip with a stone you will scratch the surface of the blade and you won't be happy
 
Yeah, the chamfered hole on the afck only works well because of the low tension linerlock. My edura has a slightly chamfered hole with a firm backspring and it's iffy with thick gloves. On the newer folders with the sharp holes there doesn't seem to be any risk of injury and much better at opening with gloves or wet/oily hands, and the slight discomfort can usually be taken care of with a quick pass of a fine triangle stone or other abrasive by hand, just run it at a 45deg angle to the hole once or twice is all that's needed to break the sharp edge.
 
Agreed on liking the sharper edge, it seems to hold my thumb very securely while opening
 
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