Confessions of a Former D2 Hater.

[A.P.F.]

It all started like this. I bought a Schatt & Morgan slip-joint in D2, shown below.



As you will notice, it has lots of belly (which I like) and a spear point, which I like as well. The only problem is that it came dull as a stick of butter. I thought that I could simply sharpen it up with my Lansky set. What I discovered, was not only couldn't I get the knife sharp, the angle seemed to vary from the middle to the shoulder and tip. In addition, the stones just seemed to 'skate' on the steel. So, the next thing I tried was a set of Lansky Crock sticks. Same story. I couldn't get the sticks to bite the hard D2. My beautiful knife languished in a drawer for months, until today when I tried something completely different. I dragged out my Lansky set, grabbed a medium hone and proceeded to free-hand sharpen with the hone in one hand and the knife in the other. I cycled through extra fine and a leather strop. Lo and behold, a shaving sharp edge on my D2 blade. Just to prove to myself this wasn't a fluke, I sharpened a ZDP-189 Endura with the same results.

What makes the above particularly interesting, is that I have never free-hand sharpened before. So now I am going ape on all my 'super steel' knives that just frustrated me before. Now I am a D2 fan, looking for some bench stones. With this in mind, I am considering some Arkansas stones or some Spyderco bench stones. Any suggestions?

 

[ryxlyx]

Interesting. I guess I'm in the "50+ years of freehanding club", and while diff steels can have diff "feels" (D2 in particular-- I love the feel) I've never felt any particular steel was EZ or hard to sharpen-- feel might be diff but difficulty, no. I've always wondered why D2 in particular causes so much frustration for so many folks. Thanks for sharing your experience.

I ditched my stones maybe 15 yrs ago in favor of s'paper on glass, so can't help you there.

 

[Lycosa]

WTG, Al.
Have you tried water stones? I hear great things about the Spyderstones.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Arkansas stones likely won't do you much good, on D2. The chromium carbides (and some vanadium carbides) in D2 will be much harder than the novaculite (natural abrasive) in Arkansas stones. For re-bevelling or other heavy grinding, a SiC stone such as a Norton Crystolon would work well, as would a Coarse or Fine diamond hone (~325-600 grit/mesh). For edge maintenance, an AlOx like a Norton India should work well, as also would the Fine diamond (or EF). Spyderco's ceramic bench stones are of a finer finish level (~1200 and higher, starting at the 'medium' grey/brown), so they wouldn't be as useful for heavy grinding or re-bevelling. A Fine or EF diamond pocket hone is a great tool for on-the-go touch-ups and even some significant edge repairs (chips, rolls, dents).

For stropping, some aluminum oxide compounds designed for 'cleaning' or 'polishing' stainless steel work very well with D2. Among these, Ryobi's white rouge works very well, and I'm also seeing very good/excellent results with Sears' #2 (grey AlOx) compound (tube/crayon-type) used on denim over a very firm or hard backing. Other AlOx polishing pastes, like Simichrome, Flitz or Mother's Mag Aluminum & Wheel Polish would also work pretty well (or even great). I'd also recommend trying those on denim or similar fabric (linen) over a hard backing (wood, glass, stone).

D2 is also becoming one of my favorites. The large chromium carbides in it will make grinding somewhat slower, but it really (REALLY) responds to very patient refining, all the way to a high polish, if desired.


David

 

[Jason B.]

Shapton Pro's would be my recommendation, hard slow wearing stones that cut very fast and yield the best of edges. They WILL grab the steel and remove it quickly, even ZDP or S30V will be no problem for the shaptons.

 

[Twindog]

Your success may have had nothing to do with the stones you used, but with the angle of your freehand sharpening. You may have freehanded a more obtuse angle than your guided systems, which will always make sharpening a lot easier, like adding a micro bevel. You can check if that's the case by using a Sharpie on the edge and making a dry pass with your guided Lansky.

 

[Squashfan]

Your success may have had nothing to do with the stones you used, but with the angle of your freehand sharpening. You may have freehanded a more obtuse angle than your guided systems, which will always make sharpening a lot easier, like adding a micro bevel. You can check if that's the case by using a Sharpie on the edge and making a dry pass with your guided Lansky.

Quote for truth. Check your angle with sharpie by seeing which part of the edge the sharpie is removed from.

 

[Sunyata]

Dmt diamond plates.


Makes my D2 very very sharp. Actually it makes quick work of all my steels.


My Arkansas stones. Not so much

 

[vorpalblade]

Ditto on the diamond plates which will sharpen D2 or any other steel

I've had excellent results using the DMT diafold:-- Extra fine on one side and Extra Extra fine on the other. The diamond plate measures 1" X 4 1/4". The extra length of the handles helps in keeping the angle constant.

I hold the knife in my left hand and stroke the diamond plate toward the edge with my right hand, exerting very little pressure. Practice has taught me to 'find the edge' and continue using that angle. I know I'm not holding the angle perfectly all the time, but I get very sharp edges this way. A bonus is, you can do it while seated without a workbench or table.

 

[Joshua J.]

I got a set of Spyderco benchstones, probably about eight years ago now, and they're still put to regular use. I particularly like how long they are. IMO the bigger the better.

 

[The Aflac Duck]

Get a bench grinder and a set of paperwheels. You will see how easy it is to sharpen/reprofile any steel type in less than 10 minutes.

 

[A.P.F.]

Interesting. I guess I'm in the "50+ years of freehanding club", and while diff steels can have diff "feels" (D2 in particular-- I love the feel) I've never felt any particular steel was EZ or hard to sharpen-- feel might be diff but difficulty, no. I've always wondered why D2 in particular causes so much frustration for so many folks. Thanks for sharing your experience.

I ditched my stones maybe 15 yrs ago in favor of s'paper on glass, so can't help you there.

Hmmm...sandpaper on glass? I believe that I am going to try that!

WTG, Al.
Have you tried water stones? I hear great things about the Spyderstones.

Never tried water stones, Rolf and yes, the Spyderstones are high up on my list. I particularly like the fact that you can use them dry. Less mess in my computer office is always nice.

Shapton Pro's would be my recommendation, hard slow wearing stones that cut very fast and yield the best of edges. They WILL grab the steel and remove it quickly, even ZDP or S30V will be no problem for the shaptons.

I will look into the Shaptons tomorrow, Jason. Thanks for the tip.

Your success may have had nothing to do with the stones you used, but with the angle of your freehand sharpening. You may have freehanded a more obtuse angle than your guided systems, which will always make sharpening a lot easier, like adding a micro bevel. You can check if that's the case by using a Sharpie on the edge and making a dry pass with your guided Lansky.

I don't need a Sharpie, Twindog, because I know darned well I was hitting the shoulders like a moron. You are right-on.

Dmt diamond plates.


Makes my D2 very very sharp. Actually it makes quick work of all my steels.


My Arkansas stones. Not so much

Thanks for the tip on the Arkansas Stones, Sunyata.

Ditto on the diamond plates which will sharpen D2 or any other steel

I've had excellent results using the DMT diafold:-- Extra fine on one side and Extra Extra fine on the other. The diamond plate measures 1" X 4 1/4". The extra length of the handles helps in keeping the angle constant.

I hold the knife in my left hand and stroke the diamond plate toward the edge with my right hand, exerting very little pressure. Practice has taught me to 'find the edge' and continue using that angle. I know I'm not holding the angle perfectly all the time, but I get very sharp edges this way. A bonus is, you can do it while seated without a workbench or table.

I have really looked at diamond plates alot. My only hesitation was that with the last handheld diamond sharpener I used, I pealed the diamonds off it in two months. Too much pressure? I don't know.

I got a set of Spyderco benchstones, probably about eight years ago now, and they're still put to regular use. I particularly like how long they are. IMO the bigger the better.

I hear you on the length, Joshua, I need all the length I can get. *Did I just type that?*

Thanks for the sage advice guys. I am going to price out some of the stones/diamonds you all mentioned and when I find the right fit, I'll report back. I must admit that ryxlyx has peaked my curiosity with his sandpaper on glass. That is exactly what I used to use to lap CPUs and heatsinks for my computer builds.

All the best,

Al

 

[A.P.F.]

Get a bench grinder and a set of paperwheels. You will see how easy it is to sharpen/reprofile any steel type in less than 10 minutes.

I do kind of like the process of bench stones, Blues, kind of a relaxation thing. That said, what sort of speed do those paper wheels have to be run at. I am afraid that the fixed, high speed grinder I have would pluck a paper wheel like a chicken. Shows ya how much I know about paper wheels.

 

[The Aflac Duck]

I do kind of like the process of bench stones, Blues, kind of a relaxation thing. That said, what sort of speed do those paper wheels have to be run at. I am afraid that the fixed, high speed grinder I have would pluck a paper wheel like a chicken. Shows ya how much I know about paper wheels.

The grinder I have is a Porter Cable 8" Variable Speed Grinder, it runs from 2000-3500 RPM. Ideally, you want something that runs 1750-2000 RPM. I love me some bench stones, but for me, the humm of a paper wheel grinder is quite relaxing itself. But, to each their own!

There's nothing like sharpening 10 knives in one hour though

 

[Squashfan]

An simple SiC stone is a great budget option. It will cut D2 well.

 

[A.P.F.]

An simple SiC stone is a great budget option. It will cut D2 well.

Would those be Norton stones?

 

[HeavyHanded]

Hmmm...sandpaper on glass? I believe that I am going to try that!

You might want to take a look at the block I make, linked through my signature. Uses sandpaper but is more versatile. Tons of content on the site.

Martin

 

[A.P.F.]

You might want to take a look at the block I make, linked through my signature. Uses sandpaper but is more versatile. Tons of content on the site.

Martin

Thanks, Martin, will do.

Al

 

[Squashfan]

Would those be Norton stones?

Yes, the Norton Crystolon to be exact. The Norton India is Alum Oxide. Both good stones but the Crystolon should cut faster.

 

[Alberta Ed]

D2 and similar steels with high carbide content (S30V/S35Vn, VG-10) respond best to diamond hones in my experience. Vanadium carbides in particular are very hard.