Confused beginner at knife sharpening

P

pixelot

Joined
Jan 11, 2010
Messages
7
Okay, so I have had a few knives so far, ranging from the cheap variety to nicer blades with AUS8 (CKRT M-16), 8Cr14MoV (CRKT Drifter), and now VG-10 (Spyderco Endura) steel.

Traditionally I've used *cringe* AccuSharp or other pull-through sharpeners, and/or a combination of a small Arkansas pocket stone and sharpening rod. I've had my best results with the M-16, possibly because of the single-ground edge that allowed me to produce a burr and strop it off with relative ease.

On my other previous knives and with the Drifter, however, I'm not even sure what kind of a grind they have, and am pretty confused with all the info I've found. I'm not sure what angle to sharpen at (7-40?), or if/when to change angles for stropping or technique for removing the burr. Also, I just bought this Endura 4, which I know is saber ground, and I think that'll make it somewhat easier on me. But I still am not quite sure on how to raise a burr on both sides, and what to use.

The main question here is, would it be a good idea to go ahead and purchase a 600 grit EZE-LAP oval diamond sharpener (that's what I've been thinking), and then use that and a sharpening rod? That seems fairly consistent with what I've found works best, and I think I've got an idea of the technique from this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDS_7AdcsAc.

But I'd be open for other suggestions/recommendations, and also for general information and advice for knife sharpening.

TIA. :rolleyes:
 
Get a spyderco sharpmaker and follow directions, easy enough. For super thick edges get a dmt xc/xxc stone to set the bevel thinner. Thinner = less resistance= enhanced cutting ability. You could try the eze lap but I recommend the sharpmaker instead.
 
DMT aligner http://www.amazon.com/ADELUXE-Aligner-Deluxe-Knife-Sharpening/dp/B000FKM41S/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_b

If you look below the main product you will see the addition of two other stones. This will allow you to resharpen and reprofile almost any blade to a extremely sharp edge. Oval sharpeners are best for touch-up's or re-curved blades, trying to get a consistent edge with one is also something that takes a great deal of control. The nice thing about the aligner is it can be used many different ways and is a good teaching tool for learning freehand sharpening.
 
Thanks for the input, both of you. The DMT Aligner looks good, especially if it's a good learning tool. I'll definitely look into that. :)
 
I agree the oval rods are difficult to work . I'd first read the info. on pg.4 thread Smith Tri-hones for working up a burr . Then get the aligner w/ a coarse stone of your choice material in 2x6" and a fine of the same size . Then enjoy working on your knives . DM
 
David Martin said:
I agree the oval rods are difficult to work . I'd first read the info. on pg.4 thread Smith Tri-hones for working up a burr . Then get the aligner w/ a coarse stone of your choice material in 2x6" and a fine of the same size . Then enjoy working on your knives . DM
Click to expand...

Very interesting, thank you. :thumbup:

The technique he describes sounds like a sort of mini-double bevel, but I assume this works on a saber grind, as it's more of a micro-edge.

Anyways... :jerkit:
 
I have the Eze-Lap 600 grit oval rods in both 5", and 12" versions. The 5" has seen a goodly amount of use, and my friend who borrowed it to sharpen his knives, his family's knives, and his friends knives puts quite a bit of pressure on when he is sharpening. It held up to that treatment very well. I've found them to be pretty aggressive in re-profiling a blade. They work well enough for me, but they aren't the only tool I use for sharpening. I got them mainly because I wanted an aggressive tool to re profile my hawkbills, and I very happy with them in that role.

Will they work for you? I can't say, but if you haven't developed your free hand skills, then understand that it's free hand.

+1 on the Sharpmaker. Use it to keep your knives from getting dull, and you won't need to reprofile until you do a job that doesn't allow touch ups before getting dull.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top