Congress Tools Mold Master Stones

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me2

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Oct 11, 2003
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I got a set of these the other day and had some time to use them over the weekend. So far they seem to be good shaping stones, but aren't working well for applying the final edge.

Specifically, I'm using 80, 150, 320, & 600 grits. The 600 seems quite soft and I haven't been able to get a sharp edge off it. Finishing on the 320 produces a noticeably better edge, though not what I'd call sharp. Anyone used these and get a good edge, comparable to finishing with a Norton fine India?
 
Those stones are designed for die-sinkers. They use them for smoothing metal.
 
I know, but there are some who have used them as sharpening stones successfully, Ankerson being the only one I can think of off hand.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Those stones are designed for die-sinkers. They use them for smoothing metal.
Click to expand...

I'm trying to follow you on this as I'm always interested to learn about sharpening. You say these things are used for smoothing metal. And most knife blades are metal. So, what's the problem with using them to sharpen knives? I know you can say I can use them to sharpen with if I want, but what's the downside that I think you're pointing to but I don't see?
 
I didn't say you couldn't use them-just that they are designed for something else.
There are quite a few stones that are designed for sharpening knives, too.
 
I use them on Edge Pro Apex and found the same about #600 stone. I guess the binding medium is too weak?
Anyway, I use only #240 and #400 lately. Above them, I use Edge Pro AlO stones, mostly #600.

Miso
 
I don't own them but have tinkered with a lot of stone types. Try some trailing passes to finish on softer stones if you haven't already.

Is it possible there are multiple grades of Mold Master stones and yours is rated with a softer binder than is good for sharpening? Some stone types have a letter rating, further into the alphabet the harder they get.
 
The 600 grit sucks. I don't bother with that one at all. The others do well after I soak them in water a bit otherwise they clog up and smooth over. The rubies suck too. The super soft are good for finishing stones unless you want highly polished blades. I prefer diamonds.
 
Now I remember I read someone stating that it works better when used dry.
I will give it a try later.


Miso
 
I think it is the 400grit that Ankerson gets a nice coarse edge off of. Pretty sure it is as high as he goes.

Russ
 
I use them on the edge pro exclusively. I find that the 600 crumbles when used wet. I use it dry. I'm satisfied with them.
 
me2 said:
I know, but there are some who have used them as sharpening stones successfully, Ankerson being the only one I can think of off hand.
Click to expand...

I have the 240, 400 and I had the 600. The 600 sucks. It produces so much swarf that it's pretty useless. Used dry, all that swarf is dust flying around. I ended up throwing it away. The 400 works well, and I use it as the step right before my Shapton Glass 500grit. (45µ to 29µ).
 
I got some of the coarser grits in 1/2" triangle rods for use in my Spyderco Sharpmaker for reprofiling work.

They worked 'okay' but I moved on to diamond stones.
 
miso2 said:
Yes, it was you who chimed in to my questions a while ago.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1277926-Polishing-S110V?p=14643011#post14643011]

You mentioned that you NEVER wet the stone.
Do you still get bunch of swarf that way?
Thanks,


Miso
Click to expand...

Not a lot of swarf when I use it dry. Having said that, I don't use them much these days. The mirror bevel phase of my sharpening is over now and I mostly stop with either 320 or 400 grit these days. I don't even use the EP much anymore since my freehand has improved somewhat and I can get functional edges with a SiC benchstone.
 
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