Congress Tools Sic Stones. Anything I need to know?

Steel130

Steel130

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Sep 17, 2010
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I ordered these two days ago. Is there any specific details or tips I need to know? I can freehand sharpen. I just haven't used these kind of stones before.
thanks
 
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The 400grit seems to be fine. The 600 grit is really soft and makes a lot of swarf unless you do trailing edge strokes only:
moldmasterstoneslough.jpg


The 600grit is 30µ, the 400grit is 40µ.
 
I find that using the 600 grit stone dry solves the "too soft" problem. My 600 grit moldmaster is pretty glazed now and really polishes(used dry).
 
singularity35 said:
I find that using the 600 grit stone dry solves the "too soft" problem. My 600 grit moldmaster is pretty glazed now and really polishes(used dry).
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But does it cut very well? I have one of CKTG's 30µ diamond plate stones as a replacement for the Congress Tools stone, so I don't use it any more, but if it works as a finer micron polishing stone when dry, I might try it again.
 
loonybin said:
But does it cut very well? I have one of CKTG's 30µ diamond plate stones as a replacement for the Congress Tools stone, so I don't use it any more, but if it works as a finer micron polishing stone when dry, I might try it again.
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Yes, it cuts well but I don't have any experience with the diamond plate so I can't compare them. It works better than the 1K stock EP stone for me as a polishing stone when used dry.
 
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I got the stones in today. Been messing around on a few knives. Getting the hand more of free hand sharpening. While I had successfully sharpened up a few of my knives free hand on sharpmaker rods. Its taking abit more concentration. I also have a bit more trouble removing burrs when freehaninding. The 400 grit seems really low for me to leave as my finished edge. So I have been taking it to a Spyderco Fine stone after, and then stropping.
 
Steel130 said:
I got the stones in today. Been messing around on a few knives. Getting the hand more of free hand sharpening. While I had successfully sharpened up a few of my knives free hand on sharpmaker rods. Its taking abit more concentration. I also have a bit more trouble removing burrs when freehaninding. The 400 grit seems really low for me to leave as my finished edge. So I have been taking it to a Spyderco Fine stone after, and then stropping.
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The 400 grit stone gives a med aggressive edge finish.
 
Steel130 said:
Ok. It did seem about like what the Spyderco medium stone was? Not sure. It was cutting great, that I realized.
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I find the 400 grit moldmaster to be much coarser than spyderco medium. Spyderco medium seems to be around a 600 grit scratch pattern for me.
 
singularity35 said:
I find the 400 grit moldmaster to be much coarser than spyderco medium. Spyderco medium seems to be around a 600 grit scratch pattern for me.
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Ok, thats good to know. Because I finished off the edge on it. And had a hard time just push cutting phone book paper. I could easily slice it in all directions though.
 
After I use the MM 400, I use the 30µ diamond plate from CKTG, EP 400, 600, and sometimes the 1000. The Mold Master 400 is far from finished unless you want a really toothy edge.
 
Steel130 said:
Ok, thats good to know. Because I finished off the edge on it. And had a hard time just push cutting phone book paper. I could easily slice it in all directions though.
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What stone do you use to set your bevel? I use the 240 moldmaster and I can push cut phonebook paper pretty easy after I take of the burr on the 240.

BTW, this is the finish I get with 600 grit moldmaster used dry. I did this yesterday morning.

EDC9-26-123.jpg
 
singularity35 said:
What stone do you use to set your bevel? I use the 240 moldmaster and I can push cut phonebook paper pretty easy after I take of the burr on the 240.

BTW, this is the finish I get with 600 grit moldmaster used dry. I did this yesterday morning.

EDC9-26-123.jpg
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I was using the 400 MM to set the bevel, and Spyderco Fine to finish. I just need more practice it appears haha.
 
Steel130 said:
I was using the 400 MM to set the bevel, and Spyderco Fine to finish. I just need more practice it appears haha.
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I find that the moldmasters cut very cleanly and give me a much crisper edge. Compared to the stock EP stones, the moldmaster leaves a smaller burr and I do find that it's easier to take off what burr there is with very light edge leading, heel to tip strokes.

PS: If you were using the 400 grit stone to set the bevel, did you get a burr all along the edge?
 
singularity35 said:
I find that the moldmasters cut very cleanly and give me a much crisper edge. Compared to the stock EP stones, the moldmaster leaves a smaller burr and I do find that it's easier to take off what burr there is with very light edge leading, heel to tip strokes.

PS: If you were using the 400 grit stone to set the bevel, did you get a burr all along the edge?
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So do you generally sharpen on these stones edge trailing? Because I was going edge leading. I was also applying water every 5 minutes or so. Maybe more ofter then that.
 
Steel130 said:
So do you generally sharpen on these stones edge trailing? Because I was going edge leading. I was also applying water every 5 minutes or so. Maybe more ofter then that.
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I use back and forth strokes when I'm hogging off metal and when I go higher grit to get the scratch pattern off of the previous grit. When I take of the burr and refine the edge, I only do edge leading. Except if I use the tapes, then I use edge trailing. I also use glass cleaner to lube the stones which I find keeps them cleaner than using soapy water.
 
Thanks for the tips. I messed with them more last night. The free handing is taking practice :D.
 
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