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Daniel Fairly Knives

Daniel Fairly Knives

Full Time Knifemaker
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Jan 9, 2011
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Titanium, Titanium, and more Titanium! That's a good part of what's going on with this one... Ti Blade, Frames, Screws and Stop Pin. :cool:

It's fitted up with interim steel screws as I always use new screws for final assembly. I think the Jade G10 is going to just glow with green anodized screws... :D more later! '

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The pivot will e a bit different on the final version too...
 
Ti, yum... I like this one too.. if the "D'dogz" don't wolf this one down too fast I might be in! :)

edit: Oh and you need an all Ti frame lock...
 
sloth357 said:
Ti, yum... I like this one too.. if the "D'dogz" don't wolf this one down too fast I might be in! :)

edit: Oh and you need an all Ti frame lock...
Click to expand...

Thanks! :D

All Ti Framelock - how about some strike plate! Grade 38 Titanium would be cool. 6al4v too... I need to do it!
 
Very cool! I'm not being a smart aleck, but does Ti hold an edge? If so I might need one of those.
 
If you look at a couple threads above or below this one, you will see a thread reference carbide. Titanium is strong, but rather soft, so Dan puts a carbide edge on the blade. This gives it a hardness in the 70's. Its a pretty toothy edge, and can easily be sharpened by just cutting cardboard. I know it likes to cut flesh extremely well, as my fingers can attest.

jacobconroy75 said:
Very cool! I'm not being a smart aleck, but does Ti hold an edge? If so I might need one of those.
Click to expand...
 
Well, honestly, I have an office job, so most of my knife problems are related to boxes and envelopes. This might do the trick. Can you sharpen it like a normal steel blade?
 
Don't use stones to sharpen, but a strop would work. It won't take a mirror edge, it's going to be very toothy. It doesn't take much to make it bite. Just the wear from cutting cardboard sharpens it.
 
Thanks Justin!

Thanks XxdrpxX! Much appreciated.

Jacobconroy75 - the Ti/Carbide combo is relatively easy to sharpen, just build up a burr on the opposite of the carbide (microbevel side) and hone or strop he burr off by mostly stropping the carbide side. The burr is quicker than normal to build and takes a little more work to remove.

I only rarely sharpen my Backpacker as I like the edge it keeps. On abrasive materials like cardboard the edge has a self sharpening effect and on softer materials like cloth, rope, rubber, veggies, flesh the edge just keeps on going.

I have always felt very confident putting my name on a carbidized knife because I know they work well. I was worried about the edge stability so as always I did lots of testing, here is a video of th Backpacker in action. this video is not to show off what I made the knife for (every day normal use) but to see how far I could take the materials and to test edge stability under extreme use.I explain a bit about the knife too... Check it out!


[video=youtube_share;gaG1RPHiosE]http://youtu.be/gaG1RPHiosE[/video]
 
Thanks again guys for the comments.

I agree, just stropping is the way to go.

If mine really needs sharpening... I have all sorts of sharpening setups but generally grab a scrap of sandpaper in a lowish grit and sharpen with that on a flat surface. A few cuts on cardboard then strop on cardboard and I'm good to go. Stropping on leather helps even more.

You can take it to a polished edge, the burr wil come right off this way... I like the toothy edge though. Even if you do bring one side to a polished edge the other side will still be aggressive from the carbide and 120-400 grit finished bevel it is applied on.
 
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