Considerations for re-purposing a 5# Collins Rafting axe

[thunderstick]

About a year ago I was able to get a 5# Collins Rafting Axe head. I dressed and refinished the head. I installed a 36" straight handle on it, intending to use at as a splitting axe. It is a big disappointment as a splitting axe. It penetrates well and will stick very tightly in most any wet/green wood. It will split seasoned wood fairly well but most any other axe will also. In addition to its propensity for sticking, it also feels a little clumsy with its poll heavy balance when attempting a split. It naturally lends to splitting with a twist but since it so readily sticks, this potential is negated ... it also tends to over rotate the twist-- if it doesn't stick -- or before it gets enough penetration. Now conversely it feels very stable when pounding with the poll; but the bit side becomes a real limiting factor in the overall usage of it. Part of it could be me getting used to an axe that balances completely differently from any other one I have. But seriously, I have more control and precision with a 6# axe-eye handled maul then with this thing. It is currently my most useless piece of hickory and steel.

My current thinking in re-purposing it is to make this a builder's axe since I have 2 faller's and I don't see a need for a 5# wedge driver. I'm thinking that shortening the handle to 28-30" will also help to better control the head. I hate to remove a perfectly good handle until I at least test its performance and bit control with a shorter handle by cutting off some length. I realize that shortening the handle does not change the head balance but choking up on the grip could give the better bit control that is needed.

Any suggestions?

 

[muleman77]

On a 28 inch straight handle, it will also do well as a fallers axe when you do need a 5 pounder.
If you get in a wedging brawl you'll appreciate every ounce!

 

[thunderstick]

Lol it's always good to carry the weight in a "wedging brawl."

 

[garry3]

I have a couple rafters on short straight 28" hafts. My favorite one is a small 3 1/2 lbs used most often for demolition but other things as well. You might like a longer haft better I don't know. One way to find out....

 

[FLINT77]

I've got a 6lb sledge on a 30" handle and like it quite a bit. I think 30" would not be too short for that head, might be pretty sweet. Not sure I would go much shorter.

 

[Mack]

Personally I love my 5lb Collins Legitimus rafting axe for splitting. It's on a 36" haft and it's an absolute beast. If I only had one axe...

 

[crbnSteeladdict]

About a year ago I was able to get a 5# Collins Rafting Axe head. I dressed and refinished the head. I installed a 36" straight handle on it, intending to use at as a splitting axe. It is a big disappointment as a splitting axe. It penetrates well and will stick very tightly in most any wet/green wood. It will split seasoned wood fairly well but most any other axe will also. In addition to its propensity for sticking, it also feels a little clumsy with its poll heavy balance when attempting a split. It naturally lends to splitting with a twist but since it so readily sticks, this potential is negated ... it also tends to over rotate the twist-- if it doesn't stick -- or before it gets enough penetration. Now conversely it feels very stable when pounding with the poll; but the bit side becomes a real limiting factor in the overall usage of it. Part of it could be me getting used to an axe that balances completely differently from any other one I have. But seriously, I have more control and precision with a 6# axe-eye handled maul then with this thing. It is currently my most useless piece of hickory and steel.

My current thinking in re-purposing it is to make this a builder's axe since I have 2 faller's and I don't see a need for a 5# wedge driver. I'm thinking that shortening the handle to 28-30" will also help to better control the head. I hate to remove a perfectly good handle until I at least test its performance and bit control with a shorter handle by cutting off some length. I realize that shortening the handle does not change the head balance but choking up on the grip could give the better bit control that is needed.

Any suggestions?

Pictures can be misleading: To my eye the cross section just beneath the swell resembles circle. If you shave the sides and make the cross section narrowly oblong, you would gain directional control and it would even help with hand flick splitting technique.

 

[Square_peg]

My current thinking in re-purposing it is to make this a builder's axe since I have 2 faller's and I don't see a need for a 5# wedge driver.

What tasks did you have in mind for it as a builders axe? This might be a good way to go for that axe.

I have a couple rafters on short straight 28" hafts. My favorite one is a small 3 1/2 lbs used most often for demolition but other things as well.

Demolition is a good role for that axe. Kind of like a flathead fire axe. Many of these were sold with 28" handles. One of my Plumbs (the one I bought from Old Axeman) still has it's factory 28" handle that it had at the Butte mine.

I think 30" would not be too short for that head, might be pretty sweet.

24" to 30" could be good depending on the use.

In mining these were used in the constant shoring operation that is a part of mining. In construction they were often used by riggers, movers and heavy haulers. These workers were using them to straighten box cribs and wedge loads atop the cribs. They are also handy when installing lagging in soldier pile walls.

 

[Square_peg]

Pictures can be misleading: To my eye the cross section just beneath the swell resembles circle. If you shave the sides and make the cross section narrowly oblong, you would gain directional control and it would even help with hand flick splitting technique.

This is another great tip. Octagonalizing the handle would also add control.

 

[thunderstick]

I agree that thinning the sides to make more of an oval will give better control as well as shortening the handle. However I have pretty much given up on it as a splitter other than breaking down seasoned wood. For our local wood species and moisture content when green, it would be more for novelty than functional efficiency. Maybe it could just be left for breaking down larger splits into medium kindling in which case I don't prefer a 36" handle anyway. So I'm thinking it could go into the category of a seasoned splitter, heavy faller's axe for any "wedging brawls" or a builder's axe. By a builder's axe I mean using it for any type of primitive or wood frame construction where such a tool might be handy (I don't have any specific project in mind). This makes me lean towards a 28-30" handle.