Considering a Cold steel tiger claw but...

StrangeDaze

StrangeDaze

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...I don't like that it's sharpened on just one side. Can you sharpen the other side with an accusharp or something like that? Would that be counter productive?
 
AFAIK, it's a flat grind so the unsharpened spine will be too thick to sharpen.
 
Looks pretty cool. I wish I could handle one to see if it is too large for daily carry on the job.
 
ALLHSS said:
AFAIK, it's a flat grind so the unsharpened spine will be too thick to sharpen.
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Sorry I should have been more clear. I'm not trying to sharpen the spine. The blade is beveled on both sides but only sharpened on one. Same as the black talon II. I would just want the blade to be sharpened on both sides.


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I think you are referring to the serrated version. Serrations typically are chisel ground. You can lightly sharpen or strop the other side but fully sharpening would be counter productive.
 
No im talking about the plain edge. I know it's weird but they are as I described, look it up if you can. I think oso grande knives does a review where they show it.


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Yes, you can put an edge bevel on the other side. Just sharpen the other side until the bevels look even on both sides and the apex looks centered. You will end up losing a tiny bit of width, but it shouldn't be significant. I actually thought of doing this to my BT II, but I decided I was okay with the factory geometry.

edit: Btw, I wouldn't use an Accusharp. Use an actual sharpening stone. You can sharpen a hawkbill style like the Tiger Claw on the edge of a stone. A coarse/fine Norton India stone doesn't cost much.
 
Meshach said:
No im talking about the plain edge. I know it's weird but they are as I described, look it up if you can. I think oso grande knives does a review where they show it.


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Click to expand...

Oh I see now. That is odd. I would not try to made the sharpening bevels even because you will end up grinding away excess steel. I would sharpen the other side at an extremely low angle with low pressure for burr removal mainly.
 
i'd do a micro bevel on the chisel flat side, if i am understanding it correctly?

i do that on user emersons i own, and works well.
 
Thanks Scott ! The reason why was going to use an accusharp is to make it even but I guess I could try by hand. I haven't put a sharp bevel on a dull knife before. Do you have any tips or is it pretty straight forward.
 
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Its a chisel grind like on Japanese chef knives. It makes a sharper and more acute edge. You can bevel the other side but it wont cut nearly as well unless you regrind the original bevel at a lower angle.
 
MichaelMyers said:
Its a chisel grind like on Japanese chef knives. It makes a sharper and more acute edge. You can bevel the other side but it wont cut nearly as well unless you regrind the original bevel at a lower angle.
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I know, I just don't like them! Wouldn't it be a modified chisel grind though? It has symmetrical primary bevels but one secondary/micro bevel. In truth My only experience with chisel grinds are the type with no primary bevel on one side or asymmetrical ones with one side way lower than the other. Did not like them at all! Maybe it will work for me with this knife, but I doubt it. I will give it a shot stock but I wanted to know my options and opinions on mods if I don't like it, which I doubt I will, but you never know, maybe I won't notice the difference because of the symmetrical primary bevels.


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jbmonkey said:
i'd do a micro bevel on the chisel flat side, if i am understanding it correctly?

i do that on user emersons i own, and works well.
Click to expand...

That's more or less what I do on my Black Talon, for touch ups. The Talon and the Tiger Claw are ground like some of the Emersons, with primary grinds on both sides but a secondary on only one side. I use the 20* slots on my SM and just run the blade through the way I would regular v grind edge, which leaves a micro bevel on the flat side. Meshach wants to grind a secondary bevel on the side that doesn't have one, so the knife will be like any other v grind.

Meshach, if you're not comfortable attempting it yourself, it would be well worth the cost to send it out to one of the sharpeners on this forum. Tell them exactly what you want and see what they say. Here's one example: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1132962-Traditional-Sharpening-Services. :thumbup:
 
^ yes Sir. gotcha.

i wouldn't do that if i were him, but it's his knife, so......

the microbevel you and i do, would be far easier to do and keep up. so be it.
 
I'm finally going to grab one now that they are coming out in AUS8A. It is pointless for me to cough up over a C note for one up here in VG-1 or whatever it is, when it will sit 99.9% of the time in its sheath.
 
upnorth said:
I'm finally going to grab one now that they are coming out in AUS8A. It is pointless for me to cough up over a C note for one up here in VG-1 or whatever it is, when it will sit 99.9% of the time in its sheath.
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I believe you are thinking of the fixed blade version, the "steel tiger". I am talking about the folder the "tiger claw".
 
Meshach said:
I believe you are thinking of the fixed blade version, the "steel tiger". I am talking about the folder the "tiger claw".
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Yes, I was mistaken. Or as I saw on the tube last night, I had ''alternative facts''. :D
 
Ever wonder what the Tiger Claw would be like without with the ring?

Jump to 3:40

[youtube]Pn8lezHhVAM[/youtube]
 
G. Scott H. said:
Yes, you can put an edge bevel on the other side. Just sharpen the other side until the bevels look even on both sides and the apex looks centered. You will end up losing a tiny bit of width, but it shouldn't be significant. I actually thought of doing this to my BT II, but I decided I was okay with the factory geometry.

edit: Btw, I wouldn't use an Accusharp. Use an actual sharpening stone. You can sharpen a hawkbill style like the Tiger Claw on the edge of a stone. A coarse/fine Norton India stone doesn't cost much.
Click to expand...
just pulled the trigger on one!
I was wondering why you are opposed to the accusharp method? Do you think it will take off too much material? I would like to find a way to do the modification myself but am not opposed to sending it to a professional.
 
Most cheap carbide pull-through sharpeners basically peal and tear metal off of an edge and give a pretty unsatisfactory final result. Also, you're talking about removing a fair amount of metal in order to establish a decent secondary (edge) bevel on the "flat" side. I honestly don't know how effective an Accusharp would be for this, but I think it would be harder to control the evenness and centering of the bevels than if you used the edge of a stone. Of course, if you're not accustomed to using bench stones, it's also easy to screw up with them. On a $120 knife, I'd rather invest another $20 or so and have it done right. You could get something like a Lansky guided sharpening system with diamond stones that would make such a task easier to do on your own, but that would cost more than sending it in to a pro, and there's a learning curve to a these systems too.

https://www.knifecenter.com/item/LSLK3DM/Lansky-Standard-Diamond-Knife-Sharpening-System
 
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