Considering my First Scandi Grind Knife

Lenny

Lenny

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Oct 15, 1998
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Thinking of getting a Blind Horse Knives scandi grind knife.
I've never had one and was wondering what to expect.
The knives I'm considering are offered in Scandi, Flat, and Saber grinds depending on the model.
I can definitely sharpen flat and saber grinds with either my Spyderco Sharpmaker, Edge Pro, (or strop if I want to
keep them convex).
I assume the Scandi will also be relatively easy to sharpen once I get a bench stone or 2.
I'm wondering, other than ease of sharpening in the field, what advantages does a Scandi grind blade offer.
Could some kind soul compare/contrast these 3 grinds for me please?
Which grinds are best/worst for which tasks?
I'm intending the knife to be used for general camp tasks, light wood working.
Thanks everybody.
Lenny
 
Scandi definitely excells at biting into wood! I also like a good saber grind for wood work. Flat grinds are my choice for all food prep tasks. If the wood work is to be light to mild, and you need something to handle food prep, cord cutting, fire building and various other camp chores, I would do the saber, but that's just my preference.

DD
 
I've really been enjoying my scandi ground knives lately(just got a scandi ground Bushfinger from Fiddleback and I LOVE it.). Scandi is probably the best geometry for wood work, functions just fine for other camp chores like food prep too. I've processed a fair bit of game with scandi ground blades as well. You will never find a blade geometry the is "best" for everything, full flat or full convex are going to be the most versatile imo but a well made scandi can be very versatile too.

If you are looking to try some scandi action without breaking the bank, take a look at some of the offerings from Condor, very well made considering the low price. I'm not real big on Moras, but that is another option you might consider.
 
I haven't been a big fan of scandi ground knives. I much prefer convex or flat. I do love Blind Horse Knives though. Just ordered my third one yesterday.
 
Get the Scandi, especially if you've never owned or worked with one. You will find that, yes, it is great with wood, but will also work well for all of your outdoors chore needs.

If you hand strop & hone the knife, you will discover that it will gradually become a convex edged blade over time, so you will get to enjoy both style edge profiles.
 
I use a BHK Small Workhorse with the scandi grind as my go to knife for field dressing and skinning PA white tales and it has not let me down. happy to see some BHK love here some of the best handmade knives for the price.
 
Just to confirm, a Scandi grind and a Zero grind are the same thing, correct?

I just placed an order for a custom folder with a Zero grind. Is it really that easy to feel the edge when freehanding and would you strop at the same angle you sharpen it, with the entire bevel laying on the strop?

Thanks guys, I'm completely green when it comes to freehanding and stropping.
 
Scandi blades are easy to hone on benchstones. Just lay the bevel flat. My Ivan Campos Scandi in 1070, handled in ivory ebony by Kris Klammer of Edmonton, AB, takes an edge way past scary.
 
Man, you guys have given me a lot to think about.
I really want to try a Scandi, but like Discdoggin says, I also believe a sabre grind will be more useful overall.
Plus, I already have the tools to sharpen it.
I hate to say it, but in the end, it all comes down to how much $ I have in my pocket to buy a knife with.
If I go Scandi, I'll have to shell out another $40 or so for a King double sided stone.
Keep the comments coming though.
I'm really looking for a reason to buy a Scandi. : )
Make me forget about the extra $ I'll have to shell out.
Lenny
 
I actually sharpen my scandi's on my pocket stones(Fallkniven RC4 followed by trans. Arkansas) most of the time. It's more than enough to shave with but if I wanna go freakishly sharp I'll hit the strop too. One of the great things about scandi, imho, is that they very are easy to sharpen, usually regardless of your sharpening tools, at home or in the field.
 
Spend around $12 or so for a Mora & see how you like it. If you don't like the scandi edge then you are not out of much cash.
 
Halfneck said:
Spend around $12 or so for a Mora & see how you like it. If you don't like the scandi edge then you are not out of much cash.
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Great suggestion Halfneck.
Any suggestions on which one to get?

I'm trying to figure out what it is about the Scandi edge that makes it so good with wood.
If it's a zero edge at 40 degrees, say, how is that different from a Saber grind with a 40 degree edge?
Lenny
 
Get a Mora No 2. It is a knife icon. Used by famous bushcraft folk. It's made from the Swedish equivalent to 1095 high carbon steel. The lack of a finger guard means superior control when whittling. Also there is no ricasso or finger groove or other stuff that gets between you and that very sharp edge.

IMG_1611.jpg


Here's a picture of the classic Mora no 2. In this pic it's joined by a Fällkniven WM1 and F1. The Fällkniven knives are way more expensive but not as good whittlers due to their thicker blades, less acute edges and finger guards. My 2 cents.
 
thanks for the suggestion, but I'd feel better with a finger guard like on the Clipper
 
Lenny said:
thanks for the suggestion, but I'd feel better with a finger guard like on the Clipper
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Fair enough. I hope you someday give a guardless knife a serious try out. Control is superior. The wooden handle of the Classic is also much nicer and more expensive feeling in the hand than the Companion (Clipper updated). Get the Classic in carbon and Companion in stainless and you are all set for less than thirty dollars :)
 
Lenny said:
I assume the Scandi will also be relatively easy to sharpen once I get a bench stone or 2.

I'm wondering, other than ease of sharpening in the field, what advantages does a Scandi grind blade offer.
Click to expand...



Ease of sharpening in the field?


While it's true that you can use the existing bevel to find and follow the proper angle to sharpen, you still have to remove a fair bit of metal to maintain the zero edge.

Not a quick or easy job in the field, but for some easier then most free hand techniques.

Now, micro-bevels on a Scandi grind are quick to touch up.


I'll take a convex edge and a strop for ease of field sharpening everyday of the week.




Big Mike
 
kinskibrain said:
Fair enough. I hope you someday give a guardless knife a serious try out. Control is superior. The wooden handle of the Classic is also much nicer and more expensive feeling in the hand than the Companion (Clipper updated). Get the Classic in carbon and Companion in stainless and you are all set for less than thirty dollars :)
Click to expand...

Why do you recommend the Companion in SS as opposed to Carbon?
If given the choice, I always opt for a blade in Carbon steel.
Please explain Kinski?
BTW, thanks for all your input in my conundrum. : )
Lenny
 
The carbon steel posts always make me curious: What about non-stainless low alloy steel do you prefer?
 
Fancier said:
The carbon steel posts always make me curious: What about non-stainless low alloy steel do you prefer?
Click to expand...

For me, they're just easier to sharpen than most SS blades.
I'll never need to skin 12 deer in a row so, having an edge being razor sharp for weeks on end isn't as important as ease of sharpening.
Plus, I love the patinas that Carbon Steel gets.
It really makes the knife yours.
Lenny
 
Try the Enzo Birk 75 folder. Available in D2 and stainless.
Also available are the Eka folders. Lovely wood handles. AND not expensive.

I own one of each make.
 
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