Constructive criticism welcome

H

Harley Boatman

Joined
Jun 21, 2020
Messages
98
Hello everyone, hope your day is going well!

I just finished sanding my first satin blade and wanted your thoughts on it. Ways to improve, what to do different, etc.

I read after I had already heat treated the blade that it's easier to do all the hand sanding before heat treat while the steel is still soft, but it is what it is. I sanded at 120, 220, 400, 600, 800, and back to 600. The last 600 I used a block with a piece of leather glued on and sanded in one direction, pulling towards and then off the tip.

(I still haven't figured out how to attach photos on here, so heres links to the photos on dropbox)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bdcjv27o4870dlr/Satin1.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/294wg1h98rk3s7g/Satin2.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/413flt272u008as/Satin3.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/nt38tcvcc79ntyz/Satin4.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/nntkqcfgi6xnpfy/Satin5.jpg?dl=0
 
p.jpeg
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Looks pretty good as far as I can see. If you're leaving the handle as is, I'd lighten up on the chamfers next time. Looks like you've got a little bit of chatter, and sometimes less is more. A wood dowel shaped to the same profile as your countersink can be used with a little bit of polishing compound polish your chamfers after heat treat. Also, I'd break the corners of your handle just a bit as well. A little chamfer or round over around the perimeter will make it 100x more comfortable in the hand. Even if you're gonna cord wrap it, I'd break the edges. Looks like you missed a couple of spots/didn't go deep enough on the flats of the handle.

If you're putting scales on, disregard the previous advice.
 
The sanding lines are nice a straight with no start/stop marks. That's good but your grind lines look washed out. Not sure what your using as a backer for your paper but make sure it's flat and hard. And make sure your paper is pulled tight around it.
 
drew1972 said:
The sanding lines are nice a straight with no start/stop marks. That's good but your grind lines look washed out. Not sure what your using as a backer for your paper but make sure it's flat and hard. And make sure your paper is pulled tight around it.
Click to expand...

You're right. My grind lines were decent until the last step when I used the leather backed sanding block. I have no idea why the leather is needed. Just going off the advice I've read and videos I've watched. On every other step of sanding I used a 6x2 piece of plywood as my sanding block.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Looks good.
From the small handle size I'm guessing it will receive a paracord handle?
Click to expand...

Drew Riley said:
If you're putting scales on, disregard the previous advice.
Click to expand...

I used Gcarta for the scales. I had to grind the screws I had to nearly half the size, but I was able to get it to work. I ended up glueing the scales on in addition to the screws. Still have to sharpen and make the sheath but here's how it turned out-
https://www.dropbox.com/s/si85xtx30i68hbh/Satin6.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/n89a4kvnsiksbze/Satin7.jpg?dl=0
 
KingJace said:
You're right. My grind lines were decent until the last step when I used the leather backed sanding block. I have no idea why the leather is needed. Just going off the advice I've read and videos I've watched. On every other step of sanding I used a 6x2 piece of plywood as my sanding block.
Click to expand...

No need for leather if everything is flat or your not worried about keeping your lines crisp. If your doing a full height grind or a plungeless chefs knife you can get away with leather.
 
12345678910 said:
To my eye, the screws are way too large and out of proportion.
Click to expand...

I had worried about that. These were the only stainless screws I had and were actually originally larger than what they are in the picture. As they are in the picture, they're a tad bit under 5/16". If I were to trim them down further for future knives, or order a stainless rod for pins, what size would you say would be the best proportionally?
 
KingJace said:
I had worried about that. These were the only stainless screws I had and were actually originally larger than what they are in the picture. As they are in the picture, they're a tad bit under 5/16". If I were to trim them down further for future knives, or order a stainless rod for pins, what size would you say would be the best proportionally?
Click to expand...
On a knife that small 1/8” pins would be fine or 3/16” but those are good sizes to get if you’re ordering pin stock, in my opinion. Pins can be a matter of opinion as to what looks best.
 
KingJace said:
I had worried about that. These were the only stainless screws I had and were actually originally larger than what they are in the picture. As they are in the picture, they're a tad bit under 5/16". If I were to trim them down further for future knives, or order a stainless rod for pins, what size would you say would be the best proportionally?
Click to expand...


https://www.microfasteners.com/home.php?cat=622

I think the smaller the better.
too small still looks ok, too large is really visible.
 
Hand sanding looks great. Very good lines.

The pin holes do look large. If you're putting on scales, maybe consider thong tubes instead of solid pins. They won't look as big and could be a neat look with a clean crisp chamfer.
 
scott kozub said:
Hand sanding looks great. Very good lines.

The pin holes do look large. If you're putting on scales, maybe consider thong tubes instead of solid pins. They won't look as big and could be a neat look with a clean crisp chamfer.
Click to expand...
When you say thong tubes do you mean the hollow tubes used as pins? I've seen those on knife supply websites but I don't think I've seen any on a completed knife.
 
Something else to consider, especially if you are going with wooden scales or Micarta, is wooden dowel rods. They are cheap, easy to find, and come in a variety of shapes and sizes. I’ve used them and they work great for handle pins.
 
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