Recommendation? Contact wheel tracking

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aareeyesee

Basic Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2023
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I have gotten my first big contact wheel. It's a 10" and it goes immediately to half way on the wheel when I cut it on. I can grab the tracking wheel and flex it to run correctly but I am hesitant to adjust it because all my other stuff tracks perfect. Anyone else had this issue?

Is this why everyone ends up with multiple grinders because certain things just want to be needy and it's not worth the trouble to go through the adjustments?
 
So it tracks ok until you put pressure against it while grinding? Or it immediately tracks half way off the wheel when you turn it on?
 
Every wheel and platen will have its own tracking spot. Set the tracking wheel to make it right.

Be sure to have sufficient tension, as that is one of the biggest issues iin bad tracking.
 
I spin whee!s by hand at first, before turning on... You can see the pattern, and adjust tracking before turning on the motor
 
Immediately when I turn it on it goes to the middle of the wheel. I added a thicker bushing against the bearing to set the wheel further out, turning the camber knob doesn't really make any difference. If I change the toe it fixes it but all my other attachments a little wiggle on the camber and it's perfect I never have to change the toe until this contact wheel. Even my small wheels run fine.

Admittedly this is a cheap wheel that I got a "deal" on and it shakes like crazy it def could be the wheel itself. The little Ive used it so far I'm gonna order a couple more sizes for sure. I'll just raise the quality and quit being such a cheap bastard.
 
Sounds to me like the wheel itself is the culprit as you suggested. You may be able to check for wobble on the outer edge while it’s running.
 
I moved the toe and it's "ok" but it looks wonky, the adjustments don't line up with the perceived direction so I know somethings wrong. I was having enough fun using it to do my first attempted hollow grinds and coke bottling a couple handles that I didn't mind. I'm digging it enough somebodys gonna get some of my money. Maybe someone will have one at blade show that I feel like I can't live without.

Mostly I was curious if wheels generally run different than platens. They are mechanically simpler than platens but that I would think makes them more sensitive to little things being off.
 
does the threaded hole for the wheel go all the way through the tool arm? can you flip the wheel to the other side of the arm? just to check to see if the swap flips the side of the wheel the belt tracks on. to me this feels like the tool arm wass not drilled perfect (not hard to mess up) can you test the wheel on one of your other tooling arms?
 
I flipped the wheel but not the arm. I will try that but I know the vibration above 25% is gonna drive me crazy anyway. Also, the work week is upon us it'll likely be the weekend before I make it out to the forge again.
 
If the rubber coating on your wheel isn't true side to side, and around the diameter, that could be the problem. If you have a way to check runout, di that.
My guess is faulty coating. It happens...
 
aareeyesee said:
I can grab the tracking wheel and flex it to run correctly but I am hesitant to adjust it because all my other stuff tracks perfect. Anyone else had this issue?
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Tracking wheels are made to be adjustable - that's what the knob is for. It's not unusual to adjust tracking with different belts. I adjust tracking wheel to move belt so it just breaks over platen edge for some grinding. Adjust that tracking wheel. For sure it will normally need to be adjusted when switching from platen to 10" contact wheel. That's been my experience anyway.

Does anyone else adjust tracking when switching from platen to contact wheel?
 
Ken H> said:
Tracking wheels are made to be adjustable - that's what the knob is for. It's not unusual to adjust tracking with different belts. I adjust tracking wheel to move belt so it just breaks over platen edge for some grinding. Adjust that tracking wheel. For sure it will normally need to be adjusted when switching from platen to 10" contact wheel. That's been my experience anyway.

Does anyone else adjust tracking when switching from platen to contact wheel?
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Of course, and often from belt to belt with different backing or thickness. Definitely what the tracking wheel is for.

I still think there could be an issue with the wheel itself being out of balance or out of round. I got one from a VERY reputable maker of grinders, and it had bad runout in the rubber. They took it back and ground it round, no charge.
 
A photo of the grinder and close up shots of the tracking and the wheel/axle/tool arm would help a lot.
 
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