Contemplating a SxS shotgun

C

Charlie_K

Joined
Jul 16, 2012
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For a very long time now, ever since I was a little kid watching old western reruns on TV, I've wanted a double-barreled shotgun of my own. Being old enough and financially stable enough to make that a reality has only served to increase that desire further.

There are four particular models that have caught my eye, any of which would likely work for a starter, to be joined by others later on down the line.

Stevens 311
Stoeger Uplander
Stoeger Coach Gun
Cimmaron 1878 Coach Gun

I would've had any one of these long before now, except for one particular issue. Every one I've encountered has only had a single trigger. I've always wanted double triggers. But as I grow older and continually go without a side by side, I wonder if the double triggers should really make so much of a difference. Other than the ability to select which barrel fires first, am I really giving up anything if I go with only a single trigger? Or have I been putting off my purchases for nothing other than my own ignorance?
 
I have had several double barrel shotguns over my 50 plus years of shooting and hunting. Almost all of my doubles have had single triggers with a barrel selector. In my experience I've always used the more open choke for my first shot and never really needed to have two triggers to choose which barrel to fire first. I would advise you to choose the gun that you like best and buy the best quality you can afford. A good double will last your lifetime and then can be passed on if you take care of it.
 
You can’t give em both barrels at once with only 1 trigger. But it’s probably not a good idea anyway.

In my mind double triggers go with external hammers. I’m sure there are exceptions.

Have you seen the Chiapa Triple threat? It has three barrels.
 
eveled said:
You can’t give em both barrels at once with only 1 trigger. But it’s probably not a good idea anyway.
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Yeah, there's always that. Not being the Doom Marine, that's probably not a good idea.

In my mind double triggers go with external hammers. I’m sure there are exceptions.
Click to expand...

That's certainly the case, but even internal hammer doubles come with double triggers.

Have you seen the Chiapa Triple threat? It has three barrels.[/QUOTE]

I've seen the triple threat and I honestly don't care for it.
 
I don’t either just wanted to make sure you saw the option. I’d like it a lot more if the top barrel was a rifle. Maybe a .22 mag? Or a .357?

Another interesting option is a muzzle loading double. Then it can legally have shorter than 16 inch barrels.

Be sure to post pictures when you decide.
 
My ranching partner has this and it works great. I've broke many a clay bird with it. He bought his off of this place too. So its the Rossi you are looking for:

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/847303426

Hammers and double triggers just what the Doc (Holiday) ordered.
 
Nice add by Horsewright Horsewright if I may say so myself. That's a beautiful piece.

I like the Stoeger Double Defense. No hammers or double trigger, but the tacticool factor is about a 7.5/10 IMHO.
 
Charlie_K said:
For a very long time now, ever since I was a little kid watching old western reruns on TV, I've wanted a double-barreled shotgun of my own. Being old enough and financially stable enough to make that a reality has only served to increase that desire further.

There are four particular models that have caught my eye, any of which would likely work for a starter, to be joined by others later on down the line.

Stevens 311
Stoeger Uplander
Stoeger Coach Gun
Cimmaron 1878 Coach Gun

I would've had any one of these long before now, except for one particular issue. Every one I've encountered has only had a single trigger. I've always wanted double triggers. But as I grow older and continually go without a side by side, I wonder if the double triggers should really make so much of a difference. Other than the ability to select which barrel fires first, am I really giving up anything if I go with only a single trigger? Or have I been putting off my purchases for nothing other than my own ignorance?
Click to expand...
Go with the one that has the best length of pull, fit to your cheek, and wrist feel. Then go with the best mechanical reputation. Enjoy!

Zieg
 
Today I finally ordered myself a double SxS shotgun. Stoeger Coach, 12 gauge, double triggers. Should be here in a couple of weeks if Bud's assessment is anything to go by.

Only problem is I should've gone with the 28" Uplander since that looks classier. But I know myself, and if I'd gotten that one, I'd be kicking myself and wanting the 20" coach gun version.
 
I've been considering one of these for the past few months. Hope it gets there soon for you!
 
Charlie_K said:
Today I finally ordered myself a double SxS shotgun. Stoeger Coach, 12 gauge, double triggers. Should be here in a couple of weeks if Bud's assessment is anything to go by.

Only problem is I should've gone with the 28" Uplander since that looks classier. But I know myself, and if I'd gotten that one, I'd be kicking myself and wanting the 20" coach gun version.
Click to expand...

Glad you finally ordered one. You should order the 28” one too! Lol. Too bad they don’t sell a set with both barrels. Don’t forget the pictures.
 
I finally got my Stoeger today. I haven't even taken it out to test it and already I'm having problems with it. I popped in a couple of snap caps to do some dry firing, and the extractor won't extend in the least. I can't dig the snap caps out either, I had to knock them out with a wooden dowel. This was after I swabbed out the barrels. I tried shooting some CLP down into the extractor channel and worked it back and forth, and the problem persists.
 
Charlie_K said:
I finally got my Stoeger today. I haven't even taken it out to test it and already I'm having problems with it. I popped in a couple of snap caps to do some dry firing, and the extractor won't extend in the least. I can't dig the snap caps out either, I had to knock them out with a wooden dowel. This was after I swabbed out the barrels. I tried shooting some CLP down into the extractor channel and worked it back and forth, and the problem persists.
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I've had plastic snap caps break off at the rim and fail to extract. Check to make sure the rim is still intact.
 
doubleman said:
I've had plastic snap caps break off at the rim and fail to extract. Check to make sure the rim is still intact.
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From what I can tell the rims are still good.

The extractor was very tight and would barely move on its own. It had to be knocked out with a wooden dowel to move. So I smoothed out the channel and extractor shaft as best I could and it moved a lot smoother. But I found out the chambers are tight; very tight and won't even let the snap caps seat all the way down unless they're shoved in. So I'm suspecting I need to polish the first third of the chamber with a dremmel, felt bob and red polishing compound to smooth the portions where the brass will be.
 
First, try a different brand of ammo. That can be revealing.

Make sure the extractor isn't impinging on the chamber. You should be able to feel this with your finger. You can test it by checking it with the extractor taken out.

If it's not it could be a rough chamber. Don't use a Dremel. Dremels have screwed up more guns than anything other than rust. It'd be damned near impossible to get a smooth, regular surface in the chamber with a Dremel.

Start with the least destructive method. Wrap a bore mop with bronze wool. If you have it, add a little Flitz or other polish to that. Chuck it in a drill or drill press and go a bit at a time. A drill press would help you hold things straighter.

You can also cut a slot in a dowel and put fine sandpaper/emery cloth in the slot and chuck the dowel in the drill or drill press.

Whichever you use, keep the thing moving all the time in and out of the chamber. And watch the depth. Only go about 10-30 seconds at a time maximum before checking with a shell.
 
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Cooter Brown said:
First, try a different brand of ammo. That can be revealing.

Make sure the extractor isn't impinging on the chamber. You should be able to feel this with your finger. You can test it by checking it with the extractor taken out.
Click to expand...

I was uncomfortable with popping live rounds in the shotgun for test purposes. But I did it anyway. And the live rounds seem to slide in with ease. Whether that's due to the weight of live ammunition, having actual smooth chambers, or a combination of such, I don't know yet. They slide out equally easy, but since I haven't fired yet, I don't know if the same results would be had.

If it's not it could be a rough chamber. Don't use a Dremel. Dremels have screwed up more guns than anything other than rust. It'd be damned near impossible to get a smooth, regular surface in the chamber with a Dremel.
Click to expand...

That's why I mentioned a felt bob and red polishing compound for smoothing the chamber, since the idea isn't to remove metal or change the contour. Just like polishing the feed ramp on a 1911.

Start with the least destructive method. Wrap a bore mop with bronze wool. If you have it, add a little Flitz or other polish to that. Chuck it in a drill or drill press and go a bit at a time. A drill press would help you hold things straighter.

You can also cut a slot in a dowel and put fine sandpaper/emery cloth in the slot and chuck the dowel in the drill or drill press.

Whichever you use, keep the thing moving all the time in and out of the chamber. And watch the depth. Only go about 10-30 seconds at a time maximum before checking with a shell.
Click to expand...

Sadly my drill press has a maximum 6 inches of clearance.
 
Charlie_K said:
I was uncomfortable with popping live rounds in the shotgun for test purposes. But I did it anyway. And the live rounds seem to slide in with ease. Whether that's due to the weight of live ammunition, having actual smooth chambers, or a combination of such, I don't know yet. They slide out equally easy, but since I haven't fired yet, I don't know if the same results would be had.


Sadly my drill press has a maximum 6 inches of clearance.
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You can (and should) do all your testing and work on the gun with it disassembled.

I apologize--I missed the fact that this was happening only with snap caps. I wouldn't do anything without testing with fired shells, preferably shells fired in that gun. Some degree of "fire forming" goes on, with the base of the shell expanding when the gun is fired.

Your variable right now is the snap caps. The fact that loaded shells don't exhibit the same problem is good. I'd definitely wait until I was able to shoot the gun before I did anything.

The reason to use the dowel/mop is that it's a lot easier to keep everything lined up and the pressure on the polishing surface spread out evenly. A cordless drill would work fine.

Best of luck, and let us know how it comes out.
 
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