contrast for 5160

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KnitePrince

Joined
Jan 24, 2022
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I have asked a couple different places, and mostly got argument... not looking for arguments... I think those guys arguing are not understanding what it is I am doing... I am making pattern welded knives, but I am using the PATTERN steel on the OUTSIDE of a core that is 5160 leaf spring, so when the bevel is ground the CORE protrudes for the knifes edge.... What i am looking for is a CASING material or materials.. that are wildly contrasting.... I was using OLD chainsaw chain.. and it had a VERY wild contrast in the pattern.. but I ran out, bought NEW chainsaw chain... and.... there is little to no pattern in it at all???? I have made a couple with CABLE and its interesting, there is a pattern but its a fine pattern.. I am currently trying different things with powdered steels of different types, screws and 1080 powdered steel, ball bearings and 1080 or 1095 powder. Even cutting 1 inch chunks of cable separating the strands and mixing it with powdered steels.. I even bought some PS802 from Jants, which is 1080 with 2% nickel added.
I think the confusion comes in, that i am NOT using the CASING as the edge. The cutting edge is the leaf spring/5160, the casing is ONLY for looks on the outside. So just looking for ideas to get the unpredictable wild contrast similar to the OLDER chainsaw chains.... Thanks for any ideas!!!
 
Asking in the wrong place. General Forum is pretty much for users.

Moving to Shop Talk, where the knife makers hang out.
 
As Devin said, use things with nickel for the bright contrast and things with simple alloys for the dark stripes/pattern.

Ideas for high contrast cladding are using a canister with Nickel/15N20/203E/460 powder and contrast materials like motorcycle chain, chain saw chain, high carbon steel cable, small link steel chain, screws/bolts/nails/fishhooks/drill bits/ball bearings/coil springs/etc.

If you like the look of cable but want it bolder, try this trick:
Use a good size cable, 1" or larger. 1.5" is perfect for a 2" canister tube.
Weld the ends of a 6" piece together completely (MIG is easiest)
Heat up in the forge and take out at full red.
Clamp one end in a vise and untwist until it opens up a lot.
Let cool and wire brush well.
Re-heat and close up loosely. Not tight as before. You want some spaces in it. If using a 1.5" cable, it should just slide comfortably in a 2" canister.
Grind one end off so the wires are not all welded together.
Put in a canister, welded end first, with a high contrast powder like 15N20 or one of the others listed above. Use a vertical canister with the end open, not a canoe canister.
Vibrate well, smack it on the anvil, shake it around, top up full, and weld the end on.
After welding the billet up and drawing it out, grind away the canister and excess powder material to expose a very bold cable pattern.
 
Never done it, but I've seen the result of fish hooks and high nickel powder and thought it looked really cool.
 
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