Controling speed for a grizzly?

Joined
Jan 25, 2003
Messages
21
Hi All,
Help, I new to knife making (only made 2 knives) and bought a new grizzly knife/belt sander. Question--Is there anyway to control the speed on the motor to slow it down?
Any thoughts would be welcomed!
Thanks
Paul
 
Hi Paul,

One way is to buy a 4" contact/drive wheel for the grinder...this slows it down from the current 8" wheel it comes with. Rob Frink sold these at one time, you might want to shoot him an email to see if he still makes them or knows someone who does...


There are other ways, but they mostly involve extensive modifications...in which case I'd say sell it and buy a KMG1!

:)

-Darren
 
You could get a Variac and reduce the voltage to the motor. This will rapidly overheat the motor and destroy it in short order.

Then you could take the grinding mechanism, separate it from the motor and spend several hundred dollars more to get a new variable speed setup. You'd be better off saving your sheckels with the intent of someday buying a more sophisticated setup.

Darren has given you about the only real option for your situation without major expense.

My point here is, DON'T TRY TO SLOW IT DOWN BY VARYING VOLTAGE with one of those thirty dollar "router speed controls"!
 
Paul,
I modified mine for a little over $125 (not including the cost of a new motor as the Griz motor would work just as well but I have other uses for it).
Here's how I (and others)did it plus some other mods:

The heart of the mod for variable speed is this shaft, pillow blocks and pulley sheave:
1.txt

I had the shaft made by Rob Beaumont (who makes the KMG grinder) http://beaumontmetalworks.com. It is an inch in dia. stepped down on one end for the wheel and stepped down/with milled key way on the other end for the sheave. The wheel end is also drilled and tapped for a bolt to hold the wheel on.
2.txt

Rob is good people and great to work with.
You could probably get a local machinist to make you something for less. A straight .75 inch shaft would probably work fine.
I got the pillow blocks and sheave from http://www.mscdirect.com/.
You can get the pillow blocks cheaper now from Surplus Center (http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?UID=2003102312042704&catname=powerTrans&keyword=PBPB)
The sheave is cast alloy and I needed to true it up for it to work correctly. Rob sells cast iron/machined sheaves on his site that would not need to be trued.
The pillow blocks are mounted on a wood block made out of stacked 2" x 6" boards that are screwed and glued together. I cut the tops down until I got close to the right height. The pillow blocks are attached with lag bolts in the picture but I have since went to hanger bolts and nuts as they work much better.
3.txt

The wooden block you see under the arm in both pictures probably isn't needed. I just put it there for extra support and it's just whacked into place.
Here's a better shot of the setup:
4.txt

The pulley block is mounted to the bench with bolts on one end and screwed to the Grizzly frame (through existing holes) on the other end.
I was going to use the Grizzly motor but Harbor Freight had a 1.5hp on sale for $70. I mounted this motor on a hinged board to use the motor weight to tension the belt (the linked belt is also from HF).
5.txt

The Grizzly motor is seeing buffer duty now. I plan to put the 10" wheel back on it as I have another tracking wheel that I'll somehow mount on the wall/ bench behind it and have myself another grinder for pretty cheap.
A couple of other points:
I mounted the tool rest on a 2" x 4" that I clamp to the bench when I need it. I have a nice table off a small grinder that will work much better though. I plan to make a mount for it that will attach to the platen mount.
Speaking of platens, I made mine out of a piece of wood, steel flat stock, two sided tape and hanger bolts. The flat stock is attached to the wood with the tape and has not moved at all.
6.txt

7.txt

Pyroceramic glass attached with 2 sided tape:
8.txt


In regards to tracking: some belts will just not track. There still may be issues with the Griz though.
The tracking can be fixed by careful alignment and a couple of under $5 fixes to add a brace and/or spring. They are shown in this thread: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=183275&highlight=grizzly Well actually the pics are down in that thread, you can see them in this one: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=275738
I just put a cut down spring from Home Depot inside the existing spring.
9.txt
10.txt

That second thread also has pictures of how Rob modified a Griz from Brett Bennett's(http://www.bennettknives.com/ ) idea. This is also discussed
here: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=170123&highlight=grizzly

Recondoc also modified his in a manner I like very much: http://www.knifeforums.com/ubbthrea...=210553&page=3&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

You can also slow the Grizzly down, as Wapiti shows, by attaching another motor via belt to the existing motor: http://www.stoneandsteel.net/equip_grinder.html. He has some other neat mods as well as some nice home built tools on his site.

I hope I wasn't too long winded here and helped out. If you have any questions please shoot me a line.

Regards,
Greg
 
Hi Guys,
Many Thanks to all for the great input pics (Ripper) and web site.
Mike ya saved me because I seriously thought about using the cheap voltage regulator.
paul
 
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