Convert convex to ...

R

RedneckBear

Joined
Aug 8, 2016
Messages
63
Hi,

I don't really like convex grind and have been thinking if it would be possible to convert the Condor Hudson Bay to something more "usual" ... considering the geometry of the blady, I'd say scandi with secondary bevel perhaps (I prefer FFG but I don't see this to be the option here).

What approach (preferably less equipment-demanding) would you recommend, pls?
 
Looking at online images of the knife, they seem to come with what looks like a very wide edge bevel, maybe up to or wider than 3/8" or so. If that's the case, cutting geometry may already be pretty good. And over time, if one still wanted to make it more 'Scandi'-ish, just lower the spine a little bit each time it's sharpened up on the stones, and the edge bevel will widen further as the sharpening angle is lowered and more of the bevel's shoulder is taken off. I wouldn't see much need to try to do that all at once otherwise, if at all.
 
It's rather that the FFG as a somewhat thick one. It's definitely there, and significant, but a good deal thicker at the shoulder than what one commonly imagines an FFG to be like. It's something like 1/3 the stock thickness at the shoulder. If getting it through my shop I offer free edge grinding work on Condor items and would be happy to put a thinned out flat bevel on the edge.
 
Thank you very much for your answers! :-)

Just to steer this thread to a more general area (not only for the Condor Hudson Bay) - what approach would you choose if you wanted to reprofile convex grind to ffg by hand? I've been told to use 80-120 grit wet/dry sandpaper on flat surface (or 240 waterstone, which I don't have) and that I shouldn't use arkansas stones ... any other advices, pls?

PS: FortyTwoBlades, I'd REALLY like to buy from you (ordering the Condor Nessmuk reprofiled to FFG we discussed earlier still tempts me :D) but the customs fees add considerably (a few weeks ago I ordered a Tracker leather sheath from the USA - it cost 40 bucks (+13 postage) but in the end I paid circa 82 ... sucks).
 
Using a filing jig would probably be the easiest way to do a full flat grind conversion with manual tools, but it'll take a while, to the point where I can't say I'd recommend it. It's just soooooooo sloooooooow.
 
IF you use sandpaper on a flat surface, or any hand held sharpening really, you are going to impart a slight convex already to the knife, just by the nature of human hands being unsteady. Need a jig or guided sharpener to get a flat "v" grind. The bubble jig would work pretty good on a belt sander and get you there pretty quick.

I like to sharpen my full convex and convex edge knifes on sandpaper on a ridged, flat surface (user Heavy Handed's washboard being one) or just a stone. Lots of good info on this website to help you understand what a convex grind is.
 
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