convex edge knives

[K0W]

I was talking with an old friend of mine about knives the other day and showed him some Fallkniven knives of mine. And said "now this is something i bet you wish you had back in the military" but he replied with a simple and understandable "i wouldn't bother with a knife i couldn't figure out how to sharpen" and it got me thinking. Is a convexed knife a bit too much work to sharpen in the field? would you carry a convexed knife into the field over some other sort of grind? Whats the best grind to have on a knife if you were in an environment without your fancy sharpening equipment?

These are just some late night thoughts of mine i suppose, but it had me thinking enough to post.

 

[NorwayKnifer]

The convexed edge that Fällkniven uses is actually pretty easy to resharpen. In the field or at home, use a cheap mousepad and some 400 grit sanding paper and just follow the blade's contour on the soft mousepad. Alternatively, you can use a semi hard sleeping pad that is issued to most military people. So technically, IMO, the convex edge is one of the easiest grinds to resharpen GIVEN that you have sanding paper available. If not, you can use a diamondrod or something, just try to follow the contour. Takes some practice, but not that hard to learn Fällkniven knives are without doubt one of the best and strongest knives you can get. And I own Bussies and CF.

 

[JParanee]

Convex edges are super easy to sharpen and most can be touched up on a belt

 

[bpeezer]

Shoot, I love sharpening convex edges. It means I don't have to try to hold the perfect angle the whole time

 

[J_Curd]

I carry folded 600 grit wet/dry sanaper in my pack (90% of my knives are, or have been, conveyed). Piece of cake to sharpen to a shaving edge.

 

[Todd21969]

I just use a DC4 stone to sharpen my F1. If you read the paper work Fallkniven puts in the box it is what they suggest you use. No fancy sharpening set ups needed.

 

[Franciscomv]

Convex edges take a bit of getting used to, but are actually very easy to maintain. You can use a strop, sandpaper or a stone. When I travel I just carry some pieces of sandpaper and sometimes a little buffing compound (just spread it on a piece of cardboard or something). I've even used toothpaste a few times (some brands are very abrasive!).

 

[ridnovir]

I love convex edges in part because of ease of sharpening in the field.
I carry a pocket strop from KSF loaded with compound.
But you can get away with just a leather belt loaded with some compound on the underside.

 

[Mikael W]

I just use a DC4 stone to sharpen my F1. If you read the paper work Fallkniven puts in the box it is what they suggest you use. No fancy sharpening set ups needed.

This !
And a piece of leather with compound as Ridnovir says!

That's all You need in the field.


Regards
Mikael

 

[PB Wilson]

Probably due to my lack of follow through, I've never been able to get my convex edges as keen and precise as the ones I get from my edge pro.

I've been known to put a V-grind on a convex blade with really fantastic results.

Take what you will from this post, but know that I don't often spend more than a week outdoors and away form my workshop at any one time and my knife dulling out in the field isn't really an issue for me.

 

[rustyrazor]

when i bought my F1, it came with the kydex sheath. the gentleman that i bought it from was also selling diamond sharpeners that were adheisive (and fit perfectly on the outside of the sheath) i've used that diamond sharpener to keep my fally running smooth for the last 5 years in the field and have never had a problem with my convex blade. like one of the gents posted earlier, just follow the contour.

 

[RemyKaze]

Putting a micro bevel on a convex with a flat stone will not affect cutting ability at all. I've never understood why people feel they have to follow the convex perfectly. I don't bring a mousepad out in the woods, or sandpaper, or usually even a strop. I bring a whetstone or a diamond stone, because they are hardy and can be used when wet.

 

[BigBert]

I think a zero degree scandi is about as easy to sharpen as anything out there. However I do not have any experience with convex edges, but after hearing everyone talk about how easy they are to sharpen I am feeling a little less intimidated by them.

 

[Lenny]

Probably due to my lack of follow through, I've never been able to get my convex edges as keen and precise as the ones I get from my edge pro.

I've been known to put a V-grind on a convex blade with really fantastic results.

Take what you will from this post, but know that I don't often spend more than a week outdoors and away form my workshop at any one time and my knife dulling out in the field isn't really an issue for me.

Me either.
I've watched countless videos on sharpening convex edges, asked tons of questions on the forums, and practiced over and over.
I know exactly what the method entails, and how to do it.
I just can't do it.
Either I end up dulling the edge, or it just barely gets paper cutting sharp.
I've tried different angles, light pressure, higher pressure, green and black compound, but no dice.
So I just slap the knife on the Edge Pro and I can easily get a hair popping edge.
Maybe I just don't have the patience for convex edge sharpening.
All I know is that I can easily touch up an edge with my Sharpmaker.
Lenny

 

[w.deast]

Combo or serrated edges. A serrated edge with broken teeth, chips, and rolls will cut (for nonknife guys) or rip, tear, shred and destroy (for knife guys) almost indefinately. A twenty dollar serrated blade will open MREs and cut 550 cord just as good as one costing hundereds of dollars.

 

[Rhinoknives1]

When it comes to sharpening a convex edge anywhere?
The only thing to fear, is fear itself!
As many had posted sharpening a convex edge in not rocket science.

 

[ChristianJ]

Me either.
I've watched countless videos on sharpening convex edges, asked tons of questions on the forums, and practiced over and over.
I know exactly what the method entails, and how to do it.
I just can't do it.
Either I end up dulling the edge, or it just barely gets paper cutting sharp.
I've tried different angles, light pressure, higher pressure, green and black compound, but no dice.
So I just slap the knife on the Edge Pro and I can easily get a hair popping edge.
Maybe I just don't have the patience for convex edge sharpening.
All I know is that I can easily touch up an edge with my Sharpmaker.
Lenny

I also have the Edge Pro and can get extremely good consistent results with it. Which is good since I essentially suck at free hand sharpening.

Anyways I was thinking about buying this nice Fällkniven Frey that has a convex edge, but as I had no previous experience with convex edges, I was afraid to buy an expensive blade that I was not sure I could sharpen to the full potential of the blade. So I thought that if I can reprofile a old solid v-edge blade to a convex shape and get it scary sharp, then I would surely be able to maintain one also. Following the instructions from BRKCA I started with the 120 grit sand/wetpaper held over a mousepad and worked up through 240, 400, 800 and 1200 grits. To my surprise, considering how much I suck at free hand typically, I was able to get a quite nice convex shape with first go and it was really really sharp. Since then I have bought that Frey and I have no problems maintaining the edge.

So I think you just need patience and practise with use a blade that you do can practise with freely without worrying about ruining it.

 

[Skrapmetal]

Any knife edge can be sharpened in the field, none are any harder than others.

Now, if you are concerned with maintaining a perfect convex grind that has identical shoulders on both sides while maintaining a specific angle? Eh, that can be hard for a bunch people. But really, if your knife is that dull in the field and you're desperate enough for it to be sharp, who cares? Rub it on that rock and cut what you need to cut... reprofile it when you get home safe.