convex edge maintenance

Moloko Plus

Moloko Plus

Joined
Jan 20, 2008
Messages
653
Hello,

I have a variety of knives and swords that all have convex edges. I use them for tameshigiri - cutting tatami mats and green bamboo. These materials don't do much, if any, damage to my blade edges. So what I need is a good system for general blade maintenance tasks. I need something that will do the following:

Repair minor damage
Sharpen
Polish

I also require that this system not involve power tools of any kind.

My homework has lead me to the conclusion that an abrasive with a flexible backing is the best option. I am fairly sold on the idea of using leather strops with wood support bases. With various strops, each with a different stropping compound (aggressive, medium, and fine grit) I think I could handle most convex edge maintenance tasks.

In your opinion, is stropping the best option for "by hand" convex edge maintenance? If so, what kinds or brands of strop compounds do you prefer?

If not, do you prefer sandpaper, stones, canvas strops, or other materials?

Here are some information sources that I have found helpful:

Different strops and stropping compounds:

http://www.mountainwoodcarvers.com/stones&strops.htm (This site has a "flex-strop" which is interesting)

http://www.pinewoodforge.com/new_items.html

http://www.chippingaway.com/WoodCarving/SharpeningTools/LeatherStropsandCompounds.htm

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32999&cat=1,43072

http://www.classicshaving.com/catalog/item/522944/817101.htm (hanging razor strop designed for straight razors)

Bark River's guide to convex edge sharpening (this is what really sold me on the leather strop idea, although this article is mainly about using sandpaper attached to a mousepad):
http://www.barkriverknives.com/docs/convex.pdf

Thanks for any and all input.
 
I have gone to convex edges almost exclusively in all my knives. It is absurdedly easy to maintain these. I have a two sided leather strop, one with Bark River's black compound, the other with their green compound. These will handle your medium and fine grit requirements. For reprofiling or repairing minor damage, you can use WET-DRY sandpaper with either leather or a mousepad for backing. The KEY here is to use LIGHT pressure, if you press too hard, your results will be disappointing. The black compound is wonderful stuff, I have not needed to go to wet-dry paper at all.
 
Thanks for the links. Another vote for wood backed thin leather here. And I have been using and liking diamond abrasives. Though if I got edge issues I can see, I'll always take it to a stone first, then strop. Sometimes I'll use more than light pressure to refinish/polish the bevel, but I'll only do it a low low angles (so I don't round the edge).
 
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