Convex edge matenece

N

NWangler

Joined
Aug 31, 2015
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Hello all I've recently bought a work sharp knife and tool sharpener because I don't have much sharpening experience and I absolutely love it! So I'm curious how a convex edge should be manetand? Steel? Stone? Strop? Thanks for the help I really appreciate it!
 
Welcome to BF. Enjoy your time here.

I keep mine sharp using a series of strops. I have balsa strops loaded with diamond paste in a couple of different micron ratings. Then I finish with bare leather. For a convex edge I prefer a sharpening medium that's not as rigid as ceramic or stones.
 
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I sharpen my convex edges on progressively finer grits of sandpaper and maintain them on a strop.

Like said above convex edges need sharpening on less rigid mediums. The convex edges I have experience with respond well to a strop and actual sharpenings are pretty few with regular maintenance on the strop.
 
I also use the work sharp, I mainly use it now to set the bevel when reprofiling a new knife. For maintaining a sharp edge I use a double sided leather strop loaded with black and green compound and finish on bare leather. If I've managed to dull the knife to the point where I can't quickly strop it back, I use sand paper over a mouse pad and start on whatever grit needed and progress up and end on the strop.

You could also maintain your edge by just using the extra fine belt on the work sharp for touch ups in between sharpening sessions.
 
Good day,

Just thought I'd let you know matenece was spelled incorrectly and that it is spelled maintenance.

I like a strop loaded with green compound and then bare leather to maintain an edge.
 
Since we sell so may Bark Rivers we also sell a ton of strops and compound bars. They are the most popular method for sharpening a convex edge. Whether you buy one or make your own, it's a nice tool to have.
 
If you're ever stuck out in the field and don't have a strop, just sharpen it like a conventionally ground edge. Because, at equal effective edge angle, a V-ground edge would contain the convex you can sharpen at an equal angle without significantly affecting performance if you just maintain the convexity when you get back home. :)
 
It also depends on the steel of the knife. Something like 1095 should easily be maintained with a strop providing no edge damage and you didn't let get to dull. Other steels like s30v I've found only strop back 2 or 3 times before needing to hone them back in on sandpaper.
 
collim1 said:
I sharpen my convex edges on progressively finer grits of sandpaper and maintain them on a strop.

Like said above convex edges need sharpening on less rigid mediums. The convex edges I have experience with respond well to a strop and actual sharpenings are pretty few with regular maintenance on the strop.
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Agreed, you cannot sharpen on a strop. Only maintain. But, with frequent stropping, you will rarely need to sharpen. (Strop on your jeans leg constantly.)

The great thing about "stropping" is that you don't need a pricey setup. You can easily make one yourself. Piece of leather on a flat surface will work as a substrate. Old belt? You are good to go. Piece of a cardboard box? That'll work. A lifetime supply of black emory and chrome oxide compounds wont cost you more than 10 bucks.
 
I'll throw my $.02 in...

I did not get good results with sandpaper on mouse pad. However, I get great results with sandpaper over balsa. Also, I found that a firmer strop (thin leather or balsa) worked much better for me than soft leather. I am NOT an expert or highly experienced.
 
Alright thank you all for the help! What website would be best for buying a strop? Thanks again
 
NWangler said:
Alright thank you all for the help! What website would be best for buying a strop? Thanks again
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Well... I'd recommend watching a few videos and talking with people who use strops to determine what you want & need. Then find a place to buy just what you're looking for. KnivesShipFree has some good videos on stropping and they sell strops & coating materials. Youtube also has some excellent stropping videos. DLT Trading, The Knife Connection, KnifeCenter... all are members here and they all have strops and compounds/sprays in their inventory. I believe that USA Made Blade sells strops as well, coated and bare.

Strops and coatings are very much an individual preference. I like diamond compounds on my strops. Other people prefer CBN emulsions or green/black/white compounds. Some like balsa, others like different kinds of leather. All of us get results or we wouldn't be using what we use. I'd suggest spending time getting familiar with what's available, how it works, and which ones would be most likely to work for you on your knives, then spend the $ to get started.
 
marcinek said:
...with frequent stropping, you will rarely need to sharpen. (Strop on your jeans leg constantly.)
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My Scoutmaster taight me this many years ago. I preach it like crazy -- partly 'cause I hate having to do a full-on sharpening job, mostly 'cause it works. :cool:

Tom @ KnivesShipFree
 
I mostly use a belt grinder to sharpen which works in a similar fashion as the work sharp. I just use my felt belt loaded with green compound to maintain my knives. When I'm not near my machine I have a piece of half in dowel I've wrapped in 15u psa backed 3m lapping film and use it like a steel. Works great
 
NWangler said:
Hello all I've recently bought a work sharp knife and tool sharpener because I don't have much sharpening experience and I absolutely love it! So I'm curious how a convex edge should be manetand? Steel? Stone? Strop? Thanks for the help I really appreciate it!
Click to expand...

What is this "maintenance" that you speak of?

You "should" do what you know how that works for you or makes you happy :)

I do a full sharpening each time, takes less than 5 min from start to finish
freehand, at 10dps , on a stone, fast scrubbing passes
ends up convexed from 10dps to 11dps or 12, depending on how fast I go and how hard I press
using light force
then I deburr at 30dps or higher (4 pps)
then I microbevel at 15dps (10pps)
then I deburr at 30dps or higher (4pps)
then I microbevel at 15dps (10pps)
this gets me easily arm hair shaving sharp, and often face shaving sharp

if I only have under a minute to sharpen, then i'll do a few strokes on the stone
at 10dps then at microbevel angle of 15dps then check for shaving ability,
then increase by a few degrees 17dps (next time 20dps, 22, 25, 27, 30)
that usually returns some or all of the shaving ability

I find it easier to accomplish than steeling/burnishing on glass/plates

I also find it more satisfying than sandpaper strop, stropping motion is slow , with stone you can go edge leading very fast with a lot of force (using not-waterstones, like norton economy sic, dollartree alox... )
 
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