Convex Edge on a Flat Grind?

[Handwrecker]

I just got my hands on a Spyderco Forager, which is a high flat ground blade with a convex edge. I'm looking for peoples advice and experience for maintaining and sharpening this kind of blade, as it's my first non v grind. I currently only have a Sharpmaker, which I know will sharpen this, but remove the convex over time. I'm leaning towards keeping the convex since this blade will be a chopper and all the work of convexing the edge has been done for me.

Would a double sided strop and some compounds be enough if I don't let the blade get too dull? Does a convex edge even make a difference if the knife is flat ground? Sorry if these questions are elementary, but I couldn't find much with a search. Any advice is appreciated.

 

[GrinderMcgee]

It will take longer and cost more material to V the edge. You are better off maintaining the convex factory edge which I'm sure you'e noticed by now is friggin' awesome and highly polished.

The booger of it is that recurve. I use a belt grinder and varying grits of belts to sharpen convex edges.

The maintenance work can be done with a strop as you have mentioned. Even the Spyderco Tri Hones can hone it, but will create a micro bevel that will eventually need to be blended to the rest of the edge.

Have fun.

 

[Handwrecker]

The booger of it is that recurve.

Yeah, that's another grey area for my sharpening skills. Traditionally, I use a SM rod corner instead of the flats to touch up a v-grind recurve. Should I use a thinner strop, like 1"-2" instead of something huge like 3" wide? Would this be able to handle the recurve section?

 

[wildmike]

Double sided strop and compound is all you need to keep it sharp.

I took it a step further. I use two double sided strops made by glueing veg tan leather to plywood or paint paddles. I load the strops with a sccession of grits of diamond paste. from 6 micron down to .25 micron.

 

[me2]

You can wrap leather around a wooden dowel for the recurve. Then strop as normal.

An option for sharpening is using slack sanding belts. Some very fine grit belts are available now, and one option is to use the belts by hand. I used a large C-clamp looped through one end for a handle, and hook the other end over a dowel locked in my bench vice. Then I lean back and put a lot of weight on the belt and stretch it as tight as I can hold it. Instant convex/slack belt sharpening. I stopped doing it this way after I got a belt sander. I personally dont think a convex edge on a knife like that will make any difference, but it's your knife. I will say I would enjoy a good, wide convex edge for appearance purposes. Pretty much all my knives will end up with a convex edge eventually, but I've seen zero difference in performance. Sharpening with the belt sander is just so fast. Once I get the angle where I want it, I maintain with stones and Sharpmaker. Only the machetes get regularly sharpened on the belt sander, usually because they have damage that needs to be removed.

 

[Ben Dover]

I would advise in the strongest possible terms to avoid a double sided strop!:thumbdn::thumbdn::thumbdn:

Just make or buy two separate strops. A double sided strop opens up your work to a serious danger of cross contamination unless extreme care is exercised.

It is far easier to maintain the integrity of your compounds by using a single sided strop that can be used on a flat surface without the need to extensively clean the bench top when changing strops.

BTW, the plastic wrapper that your newspaper carrier uses in inclement weather makes a very acceptable storage pouch for your strop.