Convex edge sharpening question

[JohnAPA]

I have a Koster Bushcraft with convex edge on the way. I've been doing a lot of on-line reading about maintaining the edge. I see that I will need leather strop and compound for finish work on the edge and routine maintenance. I'm going to either buy or make a board-mounted strop and I see that some use the rough side of the leather and others use the smooth side. Is there a preference for convex edges vs. a straight bevel?

 

[friedporkchop]

its not that hard to do this is what i do.
i get my ceramic stick box
wrap it tight with paper towel
then wrap the grit size 3m wet dry paper you want around it.{the wood box}
walla instant convex tool. i stop at 2500 grit. then hit it with the leather.
as far as your question goes its all up to you and what you like in a edge. i get lame some time and just swipe my blades with the sticks .
it works for me at least.

 

[Dorito Monk]

I just use a piece of scrap leather glued onto a board with a handle at one end. They're easy as hell to make and they're cheap to replace.

My strops look kind of like these, but one is about half-sized:

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32999&cat=1,43072

It works well on plain, straight-bevel knives, and so far it seems to work quite well with convex edges.

 

[GWashington1732]

I use an electric sander with a piece of fine grit paper on it. Of course, this is with larger blades (machetes) and axes, so it doesn't really need to be razor sharp. Works well enough for that.

 

[friedporkchop]

I use an electric sander with a piece of fine grit paper on it. Of course, this is with larger blades (machetes) and axes, so it doesn't really need to be razor sharp. Works well enough for that.

interesting george. i use a mill file for those . what type of electric sander. a orbital i got dont work.

 

[Jason B.]

JRE EMS sharpening block, it was made for convex and comes with everything you need. Check it out.

 

[brets-ftw]

i actually have a couple 120 grit stones that ive used so much theyve caved in enough to create a convex edge kinda like some of the japanese water stones, and i prefer a free hand strop (mine happens to be an old leather belt duct tape to a carabiner) but its been aged and worn and oiled so much that its become a great strop but the freehand motion puts enough curveture in the strop so it hits the steel a little more evenly

 

[HandofCod]

All my knifes except for a handful are convex. I've never had to use sandpaper except to reprofile from a bevel edge into a convex.

Everything else the good KSF strop and black and green compound will bring up the edge good.

I recently got a strop from Lee Valley which I've found produces much better results than the KSF one. I has a more consistently flat surfaces and better quality leather.

 

[GWashington1732]

interesting george. i use a mill file for those . what type of electric sander. a orbital i got dont work.

I use this Black and Decker. $20.

 

[JohnAPA]

JRE EMS sharpening block, it was made for convex and comes with everything you need. Check it out.

Thanks! That looks like just the ticket. I was going to make my own, but that looks awesome. I just ordered one.

 

[Brisket]

I do most convex edges now on the slack part of a belt sander with a progression of grits followed by a Cr02 loaded leather belt because it is just so efficient once you get the hang of it. I started out with wet/dry sandpaper progression over a pad followed by a Cr02 loaded strop and that is still pretty much my field method for repairs & maintenance although I also use a Fallkniven DC3, Spyderco ceramic, and some DMT's with some blades.

 

[marcinek]

There seems to be a great deal of debate about "smooth side" vs "rough side".

A lot of people use the smooth side, roughed up a bit with sandpaper. Honestly, in my opinion, either side works fine. You are stropping on the compound, the leather is just there to hold on to the compound, and provide a soft substrate. Heck, the substrate can be cardboard...it just doesn't hold on to the compound as well.

 

[Joshua J.]

I just sharpen freehand and all my edges come out convex. The strop is great no matter what you're sharpening.
Convex bevels don't actually need too much special attention, just make sure to grind enough of a relief behind the edge to maintain the convex profile.

 

[Jason B.]

Thanks! That looks like just the ticket. I was going to make my own, but that looks awesome. I just ordered one.

You will be very happy, its a excellent tool. :thumbup:

 

[friedporkchop]

There seems to be a great deal of debate about "smooth side" vs "rough side".

A lot of people use the smooth side, roughed up a bit with sandpaper. Honestly, in my opinion, either side works fine. You are stropping on the compound, the leather is just there to hold on to the compound, and provide a soft substrate. Heck, the substrate can be cardboard...it just doesn't hold on to the compound as well.

heck ive used a brown paper bag in a pinch. it works..see that was better than crickets chirping......

 

[cmurphy]

This thread is perfect for me. Im in line for a Hatchula from FK and went to the local knife shop (they sharpen anything....) today with some questions....

ME- "I've got a convex edge on the way and am looking for someone who knows how to sharpen one so I dOnt screw it up"

THEM- "A what?" I explain

THEM- "Never heard of it. Must be some cheap Chinese thing. What kind of steel?"

ME- "01 tool steel"

THEM- "01? Never heard of it."

Then he proceeds to explain to me why all knives end up with the same edge if an experienced sharpener does the sharpening. He goes on to show me how he does his sharpening. In the back hes got two grinders. He takes a knife with a decent but neglected edge and grinds the bevel right off. Then grinds a new bevel.

Im new to the convex edge but I dont think this guy was on the right track. I might be missing something but....Guess I'll be learning this myself.

 

[sambo.]

dear lord, yet another convex edge thread......

i use a DC-3 stone and a strop on my Fallknivens and have no problem with them. the sandpaper trick is for reprofiling the edge after years of using flat stones.

there is nothing to be scared of about sharpening a convex edge knife. there's nothing strange or mystical about them.

convex edges are the natural shape the steel will form into if you freehand sharpen any knife on a stone. all my kicthen knives now have a convex edge profile simply because i freehand sharpen them.

the only thing you might need to remember when first starting is you need to take a slightly steeper angle than you would with a flat grind.

 

[JohnAPA]

dear lord, yet another convex edge thread......

i use a DC-3 stone and a strop on my Fallknivens and have no problem with them. the sandpaper trick is for reprofiling the edge after years of using flat stones.

there is nothing to be scared of about sharpening a convex edge knife. there's nothing strange or mystical about them.

convex edges are the natural shape the steel will form into if you freehand sharpen any knife on a stone. all my kicthen knives now have a convex edge profile simply because i freehand sharpen them.

the only thing you might need to remember when first starting is you need to take a slightly steeper angle than you would with a flat grind.

Dear Lord, yet another response to a question that doesn't answer the question. :yawn:

 

[spyken]

the bushcraft is a scandi grind, correct? that means the edge is already quite thick. why do you want to convex the already thick edge?

just wondering....I would keep it at a true scandi zero grind bevel...YMMV

 

[JohnAPA]

the bushcraft is a scandi grind, correct? that means the edge is already quite thick. why do you want to convex the already thick edge?


just wondering....I would keep it at a true scandi zero grind bevel...YMMV

It's a scandi grind with convex edge. If you go to Dan Koster's website he has page on convex edges that is quite informative.

Thanks for all the replies!