convex edge sharpenning with stone ?

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I,m doing some battoning of firewood into kindling and various other camp chores using a becker necker . It like the Kukuuri has a convex edge . The blade shape is certainly less complex and so may even be better to learn on than my favourite B:A:S: . Can I sharpen the simpler necker convex edge using a flat stone or file ?
 
ferguson said:

Thanks Steve . The only complication is having to rotate the blade and reorient it to sharpen the front curve at the same time . Practice practice . I imagine working with the Becker will be a good step to sharpening/maintaining a blade like a kukuuri . Now I just have to find a magnifying glass to discover if the necker is a full convex grind . I hope so .

(Convex Rules on a Radius ! ) L:O:L
 
Kevin the grey said:
Thanks Steve . The only complication is having to rotate the blade and reorient it to sharpen the front curve at the same time . Practice practice . I imagine working with the Becker will be a good step to sharpening/maintaining a blade like a kukuuri . Now I just have to find a magnifying glass to discover if the necker is a full convex grind . I hope so .

(Convex Rules on a Radius ! ) L:O:L

I do not think Becker does convex at all...

Just convert it to convex...
I THINK that Mike Stewart will do it for you, for a small fee, and you might even be able to get him to remove the black coating...
There have been some experiments done that makes it look like almost any coating on a blade will cut down its' slicing ability a great deal... Some of the tests even indicated that BLUEING did the same.:eek:
There are a couple of companies that make a real handle for the Necker that makes it a lot more comfortable(but still very thin), but for some reason they almost always cover the little tool at the end...
 
When the average person is left alone with a knife and a whetstone a convex edge is the most natural thing in the world to happen, that is unless someone has mentioned something about edge bevels and holding the same angle and the like.:grumpy: :(
It's nearly impossible to hold the same angle on each and every stroke taken on a whetstone and consequently a convexed edge is the result.:thumbup:
A slight rocking motion with the blade or the stone will give one the convex required.

*The main "Secret" to sharpening anything is too get a burr all along one edge before starting on the other side* and this requirement is for any kind of edge that one is putting on the tool.
Norm can tell you how easy it is too sharpen anything with a convex edge and a flat stone.
Diamonds are nice when used on khukuris and especially the little DMT Duofold tools. Just don't bear down on them with all your might, let the hone do the cutting, putting all your weight on the stone/hone will just wear it out prematurely.:grumpy: :(
 
James I will look at the becker edge on when I have a magnifying glass . If there is a conversion to be done I would proabably attempt it myself unless I can watch the guy doing it . I am actually proabably going to be seeing a couple of guys this weekend who proabably do their own sharpening and a man who makes knives by the name of St Amour? I can ask them if they do convex blades on their knives . If so I,ll try to get a quiet moment or two .

Yvsa I should just sucking my thumb and start putting a convex edge on the becker if one doesn,t exist already . It is a knife I got to learn with . Batonning , shaping and learning other sharpening methods are all in the cards for it . . .
 
Kevin the grey said:
:Snipped:

Yvsa I should just sucking my thumb and start putting a convex edge on the becker if one doesn,t exist already . It is a knife I got to learn with . Batonning , shaping and learning other sharpening methods are all in the cards for it . . .

Yep, just, "Git 'R Done" as Sarge says.;) :D

A Great Big Warning When Batonning with any knife except one with substantial width like a khukuri!!!!
Always baton the knife all the way down the strip being batoned off.
NEVER use a twisting motion on a thin bladed knife to split to small strip of wood off of the larger piece.
Actually you can do that but only with good straight grained wood and short pieces being batoned off.
If you twist a thin bladed knife very hard you can either bend the blade, or much, much, worse even break the blade in the twist!!!!
This is a perfect example of where a soft but tough little knife will beat the hell out of a very hard and brittle little knife!!!! And remember ----- Most of my advice is based on Experience, the world's worst teacher!!!!:( :rolleyes: :o
 
Yvsa said:
When the average person is left alone with a knife and a whetstone a convex edge is the most natural thing in the world to happen, that is unless someone has mentioned something about edge bevels and holding the same angle and the like.:grumpy: :(
It's nearly impossible to hold the same angle on each and every stroke taken on a whetstone and consequently a convexed edge is the result.:thumbup:
A slight rocking motion with the blade or the stone will give one the convex required.

*The main "Secret" to sharpening anything is too get a burr all along one edge before starting on the other side* and this requirement is for any kind of edge that one is putting on the tool.
Norm can tell you how easy it is too sharpen anything with a convex edge and a flat stone.
Diamonds are nice when used on khukuris and especially the little DMT Duofold tools. Just don't bear down on them with all your might, let the hone do the cutting, putting all your weight on the stone/hone will just wear it out prematurely.:grumpy: :(


Yvsa is absolutely correct, but I have to say since getting a 1X42 I am spoiled now, as it and a buffer is practically all I use. It is great to be able to do it by hand though, and my mistake when first doing it was overanalyzing the task.

I can also attest that using too much pressure with the DMT's ruins them and is not needed anyway. I had one 15" AK with a very hard edge just recently, and used way too much pressure with a med. blue diafold and wore it out prematurely. They are very tough and a little pressure goes a long way. The other knives I had sharpened by hand were softer I guess, so I hadn't run into the problem before. I should have just used regular pressure and let the diamonds do the work.

Yvsa turned me on to the Spyderco ceramic stones at the SWKK, which are great stones, as well as gave a great tutorial on hand sharpening with the DMT.

I have a ridiculous amount of sharpening stuff accumulated thru the years, and about all I use now for hand sharpening are 8" DMT bench stones, the Spydercos and the hand-held DMT stuff. I have a nice set of Smith's 8" Arkansas oil stones in cedar boxes inherited from my Dad, but now pretty much only use one of them, the black hard arkansas, for razors.

One thing I have yet to attempt to do is to convert a beveled edge or chisel grind to convex. Something to try soon...

Norm
 
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