Convex Ground Edge & A2 Vs VG10 steel

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Jun 1, 2006
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170
Hi,
I just read that convex ground edge is hard to sharpen, is it true.

I am looking at BRKT (Mountaineer) and Falkniven Idun and they are convex ground

Looking at CRK Mountaineer I, BRKT (Mountaineer w/micarta handle & mosaic pin) and Falkniven Idun (stacked leather handle).

Which one will you choose ?

Also A2 steel Vs VG10 for a general utility light duty (4 inch max) blade, any preferences ? I am not going to wack a tree, but just simple little chores like slicing, cutting and whittling.

My last experience was that the A2 was not properly cleaned at the store and it caused pitting on the edge. I asked the owner and he had to re-do the edge. Much better but is this an indication of high maintenance for A2 even though CRK uses it ?

Thanks
 
Both are excellent steels. A2 is not stainless but has some chromium to it, so it isn't likely to rust with a little care and oil. It's good under nearly all conditions except EXTREME humidity AND SALT WATER. It will pit with exposure to salt water. It is significantly tougher than VG-10. If you are expecting to use the knife around water, or do not wash/oil your knives, then VG-10 is a better choice.

Desmond
 
VG-10 is stainless, and a good all-around EDC steel.

A2 is a tool steel. It will rust without proper care, but it doesn't require a lot of care. A2 is MUCH tougher than VG-10, but that is only a major factor if you plan on wacking trees, and you said you don't.

Convex edges are not hard to sharpen, but many find them hard to sharpen without scratching the blade as you must essentially "sharpen" the whole grind as there is no final bevel. If the blade has a coating, it will look beat up. If it doesn't have a coating you simply need to use some fine sand paper (such as 400) to refinish the blade after sharpening.

Boats- I disagree with the link you posted. It claims convex grinds are the hardest to produce. Actually, they are the easiest. Flat grinds are the hardest, with hollow grinds in the middle. The slack-belt portion of the grinder does all of the work, making a convex grind far harder to mess up than a hollow of flat grind. A flat grind is the hardest to get right.

Much of the rest of the article is incorrect as well, such as the effective lives of flat and convex grinds. Their convex diagram shows material being removed from the entire blade, thus making it thinner over time. This is correct. What is incorrect is that they say it will cut the same forever- it actually starts to cut better at the cost of strength. And their flat ground diagram only has material being removed from the bevel. Why does the writer feel it is impossible to remove material from the primary grind of a flat ground blade?

And to say that a convex blade is simply better or a more efficient cutter than a flat or hollow grind is just plain ignorant.

Sorry for the rant, but with so much misinformation in that article, I was expecting it to be in the Wall Street Journal.

The shapening tips are useful, but hardly new.
 
Convex edges are very easy to care for, a little stropping on leather is all you need alot of the thime.

A2 is a great steel, I don't have any VG10, so I can't speak to it, but A2 is tough and holds a great edge and needs little to keep it clean.
 
The Last Confederate said:
Convex edges are very easy to care for, a little stropping on leather is all you need alot of the thime.

There is nothing unique about convex edges that make them any more responsive to that than v-ground edges.

Hair said:
A2 is MUCH tougher than VG-10, but that is only a major factor if you plan on wacking trees, and you said you don't.

The higher primary carbide volume of VG-10 also has issues with edge stability at low angles. This can be of influence even cutting very soft materials like cardboard, ropes and meats. There can be issues with ductility in edge retention as failure by the steel tearing/cracking by deformation is an issue on most cutting. A2 can also get much harder so can make a much better knife for keeping a acute and high sharpness edge. Unfortunately is is usually ran softer but a couple of makers are at least experimenting with the higher hardness now.

Convex edges are not hard to sharpen, but many find them hard to sharpen without scratching the blade as you must essentially "sharpen" the whole grind as there is no final bevel.

Many blades with convex edges have hollow/flat primary grinds so there is a crisp distinction between the primary and secondary grinds. Some blades with convex primary grinds even have v-ground edges, Fallkniven for example.

Why does the writer feel it is impossible to remove material from the primary grind of a flat ground blade?

Yes, note for example that chisel and scandinavian grinds are commonly ran with no secondary bevel and thus the primary grind is frequently included in the sharpening. These are of course examples of flat grinds. The profile stability has to do with working the secondary grind exclusive of the primary and nothing to do with the curvature of either.

And to say that a convex blade is simply better or a more efficient cutter than a flat or hollow grind is just plain ignorant.

Indeed, however it is easy to understand where this comes from. Someome has a maker reprofile the edge on his knife. The maker uses a slack belt sander and adds a relief to the edge and reduced the edge angle. He then tells the user he has "convexed" it. The user then attributes all the new abilities of the knife from being due to the curvature. There are many makers who promote this idea. In general it would in most cases be more beneficial to lower the primary grind such as Wilson and Johnston would advocate. It takes a lot more work to do that though and you can hack a relief on an edge in a minute with a belt sander.

KCkc said:
I just read that convex ground edge is hard to sharpen, is it true.

Not really, it depends on the specifics of the grind and what you are using to sharpen it.

I am looking at BRKT (Mountaineer) and Falkniven Idun and they are convex ground

Fallkniven actually puts small secondary bevels on their knives and recommends you just v-grind them on stones so the fact they are convex ground doesn't influence the sharpening at all.

Looking at CRK Mountaineer I, BRKT (Mountaineer w/micarta handle & mosaic pin) and Falkniven Idun (stacked leather handle).

Which one will you choose ?

BRK&T generally runs flatter convex grinds than Fallkniven and in general the cutting ability would be higher. This is true of the Fallkniven blades like the F1, H1, S1, etc., I assume the Idun has a similar grind. Peter of Fallkniven is a pretty easy guy to talk to you can just ask him on Knifeforums. The Reeve knife isn't in the same class as the other two, it is more of a utility tool than a cutting implement.

Also A2 steel Vs VG10 for a general utility light duty (4 inch max) blade, any preferences ?

The VG-10 one will have better edge retention on slicing soft materials, in most other aspects the A2 blade is better, more durable, will be easier to repair any damage and more resistant to damage.

My last experience was that the A2 was not properly cleaned at the store and it caused pitting on the edge. I asked the owner and he had to re-do the edge. Much better but is this an indication of high maintenance for A2 even though CRK uses it ?

Yes, it isn't stainless. It has enough chromium free in the steel to make it resist a patina strongly, but the corrosion resistance is very low compared to a stainless steel. You will want to keep it dry and possibly oiled if you live in a very humid/hot enviroment.

-Cliff
 
Considering the pitting, as long as it is the grey or black patina, it will help as a protection.

Cutting food with "rusting" blades can cause a strange taste on to the food. I noticed, that a grey corroded blade reduces this very good. So A2 is better in "natural black and grey" than with a mirror polished face.

Patina on the edge gets away with cutting, as some ppl. say, cutting protects the edge from "red rusting".

I never heard anybody saying nor did i noticed any negative efect of black or grey corrosion on the blade but avoid red rust.

Never put it back wet or dirty. But you shouldn´t do this with stainless blades either.
 
In my experience BRKT runs their A2 somewhat soft and the edges usually more obtuse than they like to claim on their forum, but otherwise pretty nice knives and good value for the money. Edge retention should be noticeably better with VG10 Fallkniven. Like any carbon steel (most stainless too for that matter) keep A2 blades oiled, dry off when they get wet, and clean them after using, and you shouldn't have any problems.

Convex blades are only hard to sharpen if you're really into cosmetics, and buy into the idea that you have to work the entire blade from edge to spine. The edge can easily be sharpened with an ordinary whetstone, the skill is easy to pick up. I like to finish with a microbevel (Sharpmaker or similar)
 
Hair said:
Sorry for the rant, but with so much misinformation in that article, I was expecting it to be in the Wall Street Journal.

The shapening tips are useful, but hardly new.

Hey, no harm to me, I didn't author it. I was only vouching for the sharpening tips because they come with illustrations. I agree that the rest is badly written.
 
Hair said:
Boats- I disagree with the link you posted. It claims convex grinds are the hardest to produce. Actually, they are the easiest. Flat grinds are the hardest, with hollow grinds in the middle. The slack-belt portion of the grinder does all of the work, making a convex grind far harder to mess up than a hollow of flat grind. A flat grind is the hardest to get right.

Much of the rest of the article is incorrect as well, such as the effective lives of flat and convex grinds. Their convex diagram shows material being removed from the entire blade, thus making it thinner over time. This is correct. What is incorrect is that they say it will cut the same forever- it actually starts to cut better at the cost of strength. And their flat ground diagram only has material being removed from the bevel. Why does the writer feel it is impossible to remove material from the primary grind of a flat ground blade?

And to say that a convex blade is simply better or a more efficient cutter than a flat or hollow grind is just plain ignorant.

Sorry for the rant, but with so much misinformation in that article, I was expecting it to be in the Wall Street Journal.

The shapening tips are useful, but hardly new.

Geez. Take it easy on an old guy. I wrote that FAQ many years ago, back when I was filled with major convex fervor, and when there was close to no information easily found on the Internet, for people interesting in convex grinds. I agree now that convex grinds are not an all-inclusive “better grind”. They are very useful for certain types of cuts, but so are most other grinds.

I do still stand by my words though, that convex grinds are the hardest to produce, but would prefer to add the word “properly” to that statement. I have owned a lot of full convex grinds, both from production and custom makers. I’ve seen quite a large percentage of badly ground full convex blades. Maybe it’s just a lost art, or maybe many makers just stink at making knives, but they seem to find it a great challenge to get the convex ground at a proper curvature. I can buy 3 full convex blades, of the same exact model, and receive 3 knives with entirely different cutting characteristics, and often having very lopsided grinds. That does not happen when you purchase 3 Spyderco Military knives or 3 Benchmade 710 knives. At least not in my experience.

Also, I don’t remember ever saying that “it will cut the same forever”. I did notice that I stated cutting ability as cutting “just as well after years of use, as it will when brand new”. My statement may not be very specific, but I would hardly call it false or misinformation. Definitely not worthy of your scorn.

As far as your nitpicking goes on the sharpening of flat ground blades, maybe I didn’t cover the topic exhaustively enough for you. But to be truthful, the average person never grinds the primary grind of their average flat ground blade, with their average V-ground edge. When was the last time you heard of anybody on Bladeforums, other than maybe Cliff, thinning the primary grind of their Spyderco Military or Benchmade 710? It may increase cutting efficiency, but most people have neither the tools nor the time to do the job effectively, and really wouldn’t be pleased with the aesthetic results. They sharpen the edge, when it is dull, and that’s about it. It is only the unusual knife user, or specific craftsman, that removes material from the primary grind of a flat ground blade. You can definitely make an argument for more unusual flat grinds, like scandi grinds, but again, my writing on the topic was hardly exhaustive enough to cover such esoteric subjects. It was simply intended as a quick convex grind FAQ, not an encyclopedia on knife grinds.

I’m glad you liked my “nothing new” sharpening tips. Convex grinds were truly nothing new back then, but the sharpening information was quite new to many people, who had no clue as to how to sharpen a full convex grind.

As an aside, I did ask a number of forum members (including Cliff, who gave no response), as well as knife makers, for their input on the FAQ. Unfortunately, I only received a total of 2 comments for changes, which I made adjustments for. I can no longer edit that website, as I know longer own the space. I do however, have a somewhat updated version of the FAQ at a different URL. I will attempt to take the time to make a few adjustments, and clarify a few points.

Until you develop the courage to write something of your own, and have your balls ripped off when somebody else doesn't like your writing, you'll just have to live with mine. This is the reason that I don't post here much anymore. Too many elitist knife users, and argumentative A-holes.
 
Buzzbait said:
I can buy 3 full convex blades, of the same exact model, and receive 3 knives with entirely different cutting characteristics, and often having very lopsided grinds. That does not happen when you purchase 3 Spyderco Military knives or 3 Benchmade 710 knives.

That doesn't indicate convex ground blades are harder to produce, it just indicates those makers are sloppy. Now if you have a correlation between different grinds by the same makers then it is different. Are the Spyderco convex blades like the Moran actually significantly more variable than the flat or hollow for example. Busse has shown you can machine convex grinds which obviously means you can get them to exact tolerances.

But to be truthful, the average person never grinds the primary grind of their average flat ground blade, with their average V-ground edge.

If they are willing to work the primary on a convex grind they can do the exact same thing on the flat obviously. You can even do this on a hollow if you want with sandpaper. So as noted there is nothing unique to the grind that gives it this characteristic and many common flat ground blades are in fact sharpened in exactly this manner. It isn't like chisels are an obscure tool. Many wood working knives have this grind, the small chip knives for example and lots of the larger brush blades don't run secondary bevels.

Convex grinds were truly nothing new back then, but the sharpening information was quite new to many people, who had no clue as to how to sharpen a full convex grind.

Mel Sorg covered in detail how to sharpen a full convex bevel on benchstones and sandpaper on Knifeforums before Bladeforums existed. Alvin Johnston discussed how to sharpen convex edges on benchstones on rec.knives before either forum existed. Mel wasn't as vocal though as the people who promoted the idea that you needed a slack belt sander which was in Joe's FAQ for a long time.

As an aside, I did ask a number of forum members (including Cliff, who gave no response), as well as knife makers, for their input on the FAQ.

If this was in a public forum I would like to see the thread where I ignored it because it is full of myths and misconceptions. I get a lot of emails every day asking about knife questions, I do miss them on occasion and emails do get lost. I can give you a list of the mistakes and misconceptions now if you want. Considering how you reacted to the above critism I don't see why you would have asked for comments anyway.

Until you develop the courage to write something of your own ...

He just did obviously, and you reacted to it with the same manner you condemned him for. It is pretty difficult to try and promote a stance which you can't even accept yourself.

-Cliff
 
I'd like to say I'm one who has tried to thin out a flat ground blade. I did/do it mainly by hand with bench stones. I have tried other methods but find the bench stone is what I like best. Every time I've done this thinning I've ended up with a convex blade, that is why I now have mainly convex knives. Turns out I really like them and for me it's an easy way to thin out almost any knife. Is it the best blade grind? For me it turns out to be just because of what I have and how I use my sharpening stuff. in theory this or that may be better at this or that and I do try other grinds and methods but for now the full convex is the easyest for me to produce, maintain, and use. I'm playing around with hollow grinding and talk about a pain in the a to do with limited equipment, at least for me.
Buz don't worry about argueing with the a holes. At least you've written something and tried to help people and that is something to be proud of. For the record I could never get the sandpaper method to work for me.
 
Thank you for responding Buzzbait. I now understand that you wrote the article a while ago. I sure know that my old posts are full of incorrect information. I will probably look back on my current posts and think I was a moron, as I will hopefully keep learning about knives with each passing day just as you have since you wrote that article.

On which grind is harder to produce, well, I am no expert, but I am learning to make knives from Dave Ellis. He loaned me a book by Jim Hrisoulas called The Colplete Bladesmith where Jim explains that convex grinds are the easiest, with hollow grinds being next and flat grinds being the hardest. My limited experience is in line with what he says.

With a convex grind, you use the slack belt portion of the grinder. While the results may vary, the fact of the matter is that the belt does the work and it is very hard to screw up.

With a hollow grind, one of the wheels does the work. The wheel may give more consistant results as it is more stable, but it is easier to screw up.

Flat grinds are done on the platen. They are very hard to make even and very easy to screw up. I would contend that flat grinds are harder to make consistant than convex grinds as well.

Being reading the book, and before actually using a grinder myself I would have thought hollow and convex grinds were harder and flat grinds were easy.

I did not mean to insult your tips on sharpening. Like I said, they are helpful, and back then they may have been harder to find. The reason I said "but not new" is because I was having trouble understanding why the article was written in the first place.

As for the life span of both grinds, the simple fact is that your diagram only shows that a convex grind will cut well for longer because material is removed from the whole blade. Whether some Joe will grind material from the primary grind of a flat ground blade is irrelevant. The fact of the matter is that it can be done just as it can be done on a convex ground blade, meaning the convex grind does not last longer as you claim.

No materials are needed to remove metal from a flat ground blade that are not also needed to do so from a convex ground blade. In fact, it is easier to do with hand work since you can use a flat surface instead of trying to maintain a curve.
 
I thought that all of the BRKT Mountaineer's were made using 12C27. Please check with Mike Stewart of BRKT before buying an A2 Mountaineer.
 
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