Convex sharpening, EUREKA! (question on field sharpening?)

[EDDAKA]

So first an accomplishment, then a question.

So for the longest time I could not get my convex knives sharp (I'm talking to you fallkniven F1)

I tried the sand paper and mousepad technique religiously, I even went up to 1500 grit, but I couldn't get the sharpness where I wanted.

I finally decided to order a strop bat from JRE, and VOILA! Hair popping sharp in a matter of minutes. Now I'm diggen the edge I have on my F1

So, my question:

What do you guys use to sharpen your convex blades in the field? With my scandi blades, I Just have my dc4 stone. It's impervious to water, comes with a leather case, and will probably last forever.

I like the small field hone that bark river sells, but I'd like some opinions on what you guys use.


Thanks!

-Richard.

 

[pierced]

Can you add a link to the strop bat?

 

[EDDAKA]

No problem

http://www.jreindustries.com/strops.htm

 

[Jason B.]

400-600 grit is the range that "hair popping" sharpness should arrive, if not then you have missed something. If you were having trouble with sharpness it was most likely from a combo of sloppy angle control and too much pressure. Though you here often "convex is forgiving" that does not mean you can get sloppy, angle control is still very important.

The strop worked most likely because it removed or polished a burr.

For in the feld I find a microbevel with a ceramic satisfactory until I can get back to a more complete set of tools.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

I've been using one of my leather strop blocks as backing for sandpaper. One thing I've noticed, after convexing the edge on a knife using this setup, it's very, very easy to touch up the edge using exactly the same thing. 1000 or 2000 grit is very handy for quick touch-ups.

If I think I've rounded the edge a bit, on the strop or otherwise, I've also used the same strop block with sandpaper, BUT I've flipped the block over, to use the hardwood as backing for the sandpaper. Same technique otherwise. It's also possible to use this setup as you would a stone, with VERY light, edge-leading strokes (instead of an edge-trailing, stropping stroke). I'm discovering for myself, that this works very well for restoring a slightly rounded edge. I then follow up on my green strop, with very light passes.

 

[Rupestris]

3M Trizact 3000 grit 6" disk.

This can be found at auto body supply stores.

It's a 3000 grit, foam backed sanding disk that has a velcro "hook" backing. The inside of my Maratac bag from CountyComm has a fabric lining that the Trizact sticks to. I just stick a piece on the inside and it stays put and I never have to dig for it.

It works wet or dry and can be used as a make shift strop for non-convex edges.

It also comes in 1000 and 1500 grit.