Convex sharpening on a dmt benchstone

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yakantosh

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Jun 21, 2014
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Well, I was recently introduced to the world of convex edges, and I have been greatly enjoying them. However, I do not like sharpening with sandpaper, and want to learn how to sharpen a convex edge on a Dmt bench stone. I tried searching around, but couldn't find any videos or guides on how to do this. If anybody has a link to a good guide, or can post a guide on your own, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
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It's not going to go well with diamond stones, you will need waterstones.

Here are some videos I did on convex with a stone.

[video=youtube;lx4odmy3zc4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&persist_app=1&v=lx4odmy3zc4[/video]
 
Thank you for sharing the videos, both were very informative. If you do not mind me asking, why would using a diamond stone to sharpen a convex edge not work well? Also, would you have a suggestion for a waterstone in the 600-800 grit range that would be small enough to carry while in the field for touch ups? Thanks!
 
i tried on DMT stones and have course, fine and extra fine. you have to use sandpaper at the beginning or end to really get a true convex. However, you can get the poor man's convex by sharpening the traditional way, forward not backward, with them and get better results, as w/o a guide it will be convex anyway!
 
because w/o sandpaper, you won't have enough grits to go through to have a fine convex when done. Unless you have extra extra course, course, fine, extra fine, extra extra fine, and then strop.

but even with all those stones, you wont' be able to get in between grits, which will give you a much less sharp final edge. using sandpaper or other stones as uptop is really the only true way. However, as i said, it becomes convex in a way w/o a guide anyway.
 
yakantosh said:
Thank you for sharing the videos, both were very informative. If you do not mind me asking, why would using a diamond stone to sharpen a convex edge not work well? Also, would you have a suggestion for a waterstone in the 600-800 grit range that would be small enough to carry while in the field for touch ups? Thanks!
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My 2c, you could use a diamond plate to convex and simply roll the wrist slightly as you go, but cosmetically it will not look very nice unless your technique is 110%. For field touch-ups you would likely be better off with a small piece of diamond lapping film or wet/dry sandpaper, as waterstones don't carry well. A small silicon carbide stone will work too, but won't be very refined. A hard-backed strop of some sort will work well too as long as the edge doesn't get too beat up between touch-ups.
 
The edges of the 3 blades of my Buck 301 stockman were convexed on diamond hones. I think I used either or both of my 'credit card' Fine hone and a 6" Dia-Sharp Fine. Used those to set the grind, and the polishing and some additional convexing of the shoulders was done on my denim strop with Sears #2 compound (grey AlOx); that strop is also what I've used to maintain the edges after the fact.

The 'hollow saber' grind of these particular blades makes it less vulnerable to the scratching of upper parts of the blade, if the angle gets too low (the 'hollow' won't contact the hone). So, it's doable and easier under some circumstances. Still takes some getting used to, in adopting a technique with the hands & particular hone used.

The 2nd pic is my 'modified spey' blade, on which I ground down the factory spey's spine near the tip, to make it into more of a spear or drop-point tip (different project with different tools).


David
 
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So what you are saying is that I could use diamond hones to maintain the convexed edge, but it won't be refined as well as If I were to use water stones or sandpaper? If so, would I still theoretically be able to obtain a shaving edge with the diamond stones up to an extra fine and stropping afterwards? Also, if it makes a difference, the knife I am talking about is an esee 4.
 
yakantosh said:
So what you are saying is that I could use diamond hones to maintain the convexed edge, but it won't be refined as well as If I were to use water stones or sandpaper? If so, would I still theoretically be able to obtain a shaving edge with the diamond stones up to an extra fine and stropping afterwards? Also, if it makes a difference, the knife I am talking about is an esee 4.
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The degree of refinement is pretty much up to the user. Any Fine/EF diamond hone (especially) is capable of creating and maintaining shaving-sharp edges. There are many methods that can work just as well, however. Personally, I find sandpaper and well-chosen stropping media to be the easiest means by which to maintain convex edges. Sandpaper also has the advantage of low cost, portability and the widest range of available grits to choose from. But, in skilled hands, pretty much any decent hone can be used to good or great effect.

With the 1095 steel of the ESEE 4, the wet/dry sandpaper would be my first choice. 1095 responds very nicely to it, when it's used more or less like a strop; very easy to work with, and more so on a firmer or hard backing (works faster and edges will be crisper). Sometimes a diamond hone can be too aggressive with such a steel, unless one has developed a light touch and chooses the working grit wisely (finer diamond grits will work better, as very coarse diamond can take off too much steel, and will leave a very ragged edge on 1095).


David
 
But, in skilled hands, pretty much any decent hone can be used to good or great effect.
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The best answer and well demonstrated by the edges on that Buck :thumbup:
 
Thanks for all the responses, especially jason, heavy-handed, and OWE. I'm gonna go beat on the edge a little in the woods this weekend, and see whether I can't hone it with what I've got afterwards. I'll post pics if all goes well.
 
Jason B. said:
The best answer and well demonstrated by the edges on that Buck :thumbup:
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That means a lot coming from you. I've learned a TON in reading your posts here and watching your videos (best 'muscle memory' with hands-on-blade-on-stone I think I've seen; I'm still striving to emulate it).

Thanks Jason. :thumbup:


David
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
With the 1095 steel of the ESEE 4, the wet/dry sandpaper would be my first choice. 1095 responds very nicely to it, when it's used more or less like a strop; very easy to work with, and more so on a firmer or hard backing (works faster and edges will be crisper).
Click to expand...

Agreed on all counts, especially the firmer backing. On 1095 the sandpaper will work pretty quickly, and with a softer backing you could round off the edges pretty easily if you're not careful.
 
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