Convex vs flat, taper or hollow grind?

B

Big Bo

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Jul 15, 2003
Messages
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I need to know a few things, please.
What is the big difference between the grinds as far as sharpness and edge retention?

If I buy a knife that is VG10, or a good stainless, or even 1095 is the grind going to make that much of a difference?

How and why?

Please explain. This will be a woods, camp, hunting knife.
 
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hope this helps

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The geometry of an edge makes all the difference. The ideal geometry depends on the intended use. That is why there are so many choices.

For example:

For kitchen slicing, I want a full flat-grind with a very thin edge. This will displace less material, but results in a lighter, more delicate blade.

For chopping wood, I would prefer a thick, convex edge. This will provide the necessary mass and edge strength.

Some blades are very specialized. Look at the ultra-thin hollow-grinds of a straight razor, or the chisel grind of a sashimi knife.

Phillip
 
Most factory knives are flat or hollow ground with a double bevel edge (scandi's excluded) because these are easier to mass produce with consistency. Some (BRKT, Falkniven) come with a convex edge = hand finished. Convex edges are a stronger shape - which is why they're used on swords and axes

I find it easier to give my knives a convex edge and am happier with the performance this gives
 
yes the grind makes a huge difference, but as far as sharpness goes, you cant go wrong with any of those 3. the equation for a sharp blade is steel+heat treat+grind+sharpening, so, if you get something like a spyderco (just guessing from the vg10 reference) you will get a good-great steel, good-great heat treat, great grind, and great sharpening; so a good blade. some people are convex nuts, some people hate hollow grinds, but as long as its done properly the three are borderline equal
 
i find little to no difference in most grinds... except for the convex. after the purchase of my brkt classic lite hunter words can not express how much i like convex grinds. they just plain work.

if you don't want to shell out the cash for a convex blade ($100 and up most times) just stay with a full flat or flat with a high grind line. hope this helps.
 
What I like in an outdoors knife, is a high, flat-grind, with a convexed edge. I set the edge at 15-degrees per side and convex it back. The advantage is that removing the shoulders reduces resistance. None of the grinds are inherently sharper at the edge, they just determine how the blade passes thorough material.

A knife with an edge thickness of about .025"-.020" works well for most tasks. If it's a longer blade that will see chopping, I may up that thickness. For pure slicing, you may go down to less than .010".
 
I forgot to add, convex grinds do not make inherently stronger edges. Edge strength, (reduces chipping, rolling, and so on), depends on the angle of the edge. A convex grind simply allows a wider angle (more durable) edge to pass through material efficiently.
 
primary grind angle and height plus stock thickness need to be considered as well, no blanket statement of one grind over another works without also taking those into account
 
I am developing a real preference for a convex edge. Simple enough to get the hang of. Easy to put a razor sharp convex edge on your knife. Simple and easy to maintain. My big concern was field use. It is the edge that needs the least maintenance to stay razor sharp. Which makes it the best edge for field use, IMO. If it does need a touch up couple pieces of sand paper, strip of leather with some compound and you are good to go.
 
Any reccomendations of where to get info on sharpening a convex edge? I have seen a couple videos. Tutorial?
 
Go to knivesshipfree.com. I have a stop that they have and I think it's great! Give Derrick a call he's a great guy to do business with!:cool::thumbup:
 
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