convex vs v-grind

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Feb 18, 2008
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Alright, my CABS is officially dull after field dressing and completely butchering 3 deer by itself...all the way down to steaks and ribs. (I had to make sure that thin little blade would hold up) :)

My problem is that I want it sharp again and as a complete convex NEWB with no equipment what do I need to get started? (links appreciated)
Or do I V-grind the bugger like all my other Busses are and call it a day?

If I do start convexing I want to switch all my Busses over to it so I'm not hauling all kinds of crap w/ me through the woods. Where would you send your blades to get their V-grinds changed to convexed?
Thanks in advance.
 
If you want someone else to do it. I'd send'em to Ban or Norcalblktail. Otherwise, a mouse pad, some sandpaper, and some time. :)


What are your thoughts on the knives performance, processing deer?
 
Goodness no, don't add a V-grind to an already convexed blade. No need.

I'd bet it just needs a stropping, and even if it does need real sharpening - the mousepad and sandpaper method is the deal.

(+1 on looking forward to more details re: its performance processing those deer)
 
Performance on the deer was awesome! I was really surprised how well it held up.

The last couple years I've been using s30v in a Buck MiniAlpha and SOGs TeamLeader with the Latrobe steel (s30v equivalent supposed to wear longer, and worked really well last year.)

I split the ribcage during field dressing and didn't have any issues with the first 2 deer. Processing/ deboning/ etc. was equally good.

3rd deer died in the swamp a couple days later. Loads of grit in the hide so by the time I got to splitting the ribcage I had to use more pressure, but still worked well since I could put more pressure on right where the choil normally is. (yeah choillessness deliciousness!)

Processing also went well on the 3rd but I noticed by the end that the upswept part of the blade was getting noticeably dull. To be fair, the deer froze hard the night before and there were ice crystals in the thin muscle groups and under the hide which was a real pain to get off. I was also cutting/ deboning on a steel topped table because everyone forgets to bring a cutting board for some reason and I'm at fault for that too.

Overall I've found my permanent hunting knife until Jerry comes out with something better. The handle remained grippy enough during the process as well. The index finger grove behind the talon hole was plenty deep enough to help me hang on.

The long term durability use is now in process.
 
What I use to get mine back to laser sharp is a paper wheel with some compound on it. I can have it as sharp or sharper than it came from Busse in minutes. If the edge rolls, no problem. If it gets a dent then run it on some sand paper and a mouse pad then go to the paper wheels. I still don't dare to use a belt grinder, but in due time I'll build the courage.
 
Performance on the deer was awesome! I was really surprised how well it held up.

The last couple years I've been using s30v in a Buck MiniAlpha and SOGs TeamLeader with the Latrobe steel (s30v equivalent supposed to wear longer, and worked really well last year.)

I split the ribcage during field dressing and didn't have any issues with the first 2 deer. Processing/ deboning/ etc. was equally good.

3rd deer died in the swamp a couple days later. Loads of grit in the hide so by the time I got to splitting the ribcage I had to use more pressure, but still worked well since I could put more pressure on right where the choil normally is. (yeah choillessness deliciousness!)

Processing also went well on the 3rd but I noticed by the end that the upswept part of the blade was getting noticeably dull. To be fair, the deer froze hard the night before and there were ice crystals in the thin muscle groups and under the hide which was a real pain to get off. I was also cutting/ deboning on a steel topped table because everyone forgets to bring a cutting board for some reason and I'm at fault for that too.

Overall I've found my permanent hunting knife until Jerry comes out with something better. The handle remained grippy enough during the process as well. The index finger grove behind the talon hole was plenty deep enough to help me hang on.

The long term durability use is now in process.

excellent real-world details.

thanks.

I love mine, and aside from wishing for other handle choices I wouldn't change a thing. It's exactly what I was looking for in a "small" outdoors user. The right size, thickness, shape, and features - for me at least...
 
I will go against the flow and vote for a nice V edge. Convex just does not do it for me.
 
It is all up to you of course.

I convex all mine by hand mostly (mostly, because the last three I did cheat and use my belt sander to do most of the work, then finished up on fine sandpaper by hand). I just could not remove the steel on the KZII by hand. My shoulder was so sore, and I gave up at about the 6 hour mark. I did my FBMLE and Ash1cg etc by hand.


I would at least get a good two sided strop, and give it a try before you make any rash v decisions.

With some sheets of auto sandpaper, you are set. Just use one side of the strop as the backing for your sandpaper, and bingo!

It really, is just so easy for me to keep my convex users hair flinging sharp with just stropping.

At the end of the day, if I have used the knife, I just give it a few passes per side and bingo!

If you can get laser sharp with a v edge with no effort, then that is ok too, I just prefer a convex edge.

Just so you know, the strop also takes my v edge knives up a notch in sharp factor as well. when I am done with a v edge sharpening, I just do a few passes per side and even better!
 
another thing is to consider - don't let the blade became dull.
after - a more demanding - use, just strop it a few times on a leather strop (I use a double sided strop-bat loaded with Bark River compounds), and that's it.
that's why I like convex edges.

thanks for the real world experience - I love my CABS, too.:thumbup:
 
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