Convexed my ESEE 4

Joined
Nov 14, 2010
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267
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Just thought I'd share. :-)

200 grit
400 grit
800 grit
Mothers polish on cardboard.
 
Thanks! She slices beautifully, so much smoother than before. I'm sold on convex edges.
Here is another angle with my izzy...

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Im new... please post different angles of the edge, I still dont fully understand what a convex edge is.
 
Im new... please post different angles of the edge, I still dont fully understand what a convex edge is.

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Flat Grind: The flat grind consists of a straight tapering of the blade, on both sides, from the spine of the blade down to the cutting edge. The flat grind is sometimes referred to as a "V" grind. The flat grind offers low cutting drag, while maintaining more strength to the blade than a hollow grind.

Taper Grind: The taper grind consists of a straight tapering of the blade, similar to the flat grind, except the taper is started some distance below the spine, rather than at the spine. The taper grind offers more strength to the blade than the flat grind, but also adds cutting drag.

Hollow Grind: The hollow grind consists of a concave taper, on both sides of the blade, toward the edge. The hollow grind creates a thin edge, which produces the least amount of cutting drag. For this reason, the hollow grind is the most popular blade grind used.

Convex Grind: The convex grind consists of a convex taper, on both sides of the blade, toward the edge. It is the opposite of a hollow grind. It is the most difficult blade grind to manufacture. The convex grind is the strongest of all the blade grinds. For this reason, it is becoming a very popular blade grind. (See How to Sharpen a Convex Blade)

Chisel Grind: The chisel grind consists of a straight tapering of the blade, on one side only. This creates an edge that is slightly stronger than a taper grind edge. For this reason, it is often used on tactical blades. The chisel grind is the easiest grind to sharpen.
 
I'm sold on the convex grind as well. Here is a bad picture of my 6. The problem with the convex is when people make the grind too thin. Kind of defeats the purpose behind the convex.

Your 4 looks real good.

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Thanks everyone for the kind words.

@ tripper: derek got you covered on the kinds of edges

@ hill: that 6 looks sexy!
 
Edge thinness is all relative to the job. A very thin edge is amazing at slicing soft materials, but not meant for hard use.
I have some Barkies with the thin convex, Mountain Man, that cut through paper almost in silence. I would not baton that knife, or cut bone. It's edge is a trade off, to me it's a big scalpel.
I have not convexed my ESEE 4, yet. As I sharpen it, I will knock off the shoulder, and that's about it. I want a thicker edge to a knife like this, so batoning and cutting bone is possible.
 
Nice job Pea-Ta. I've considered this myself as I'm big fan of convex grinds/edges. Not sure if I ever will though. Seems to me you would have to blunt the edge quite a bit, then blend in a convex edge in order to maintain an edge angle that isn't too thin.
 
Looks damn nice man. Your making me want to convex my 4 and Izzy also. :p
 
I know this doesn't sound scientific but before I convexed it I reprofiled her to 30 degree shoulders and a 40 degree edge. Then hit the sandpaper and mousepad. The geometry "should" kinda be in the same ballpark.... Right :-)
 
I would really like to put some convex edges on a few of my blades. Does anyone know of a place that I can find instructions as to how to do this?
 
@ gringo, I don't really know... Just until the edge is symmetrical then move on to the next... I don't get a burr cuz I do 1:1

@ that others may live, you can find them on YouTube everyone does it differently but the same....

@ neo, yup yup works like a strop set up for about $3.50
 
You did a great job with your convex. I did have all of my ESEE's convexed at one time and it really was amazing the difference in how they'd slice through paper and some other things. I ended up putting them back though for ease of sharpening in the field with a stone.
 
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