Convexing 1095....

Joined
Jul 6, 2008
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Just had a question about possibly convexing my rc-6. Does the type of blade steel affect the ability to sharpen a convexed knife? I can get my Bravo-1 razor sharp by stropping it on my belt. Would I be able to do the same thing with my RC-6 if I convexed the edge? Will the 1095 sharpen just as easily as the A2 steel?

Thanks....
 
you can convex ANY knife, no matter what steel. You will like the rc-6 more when you put a convex edge or grind
 
No effect on the steel. It takes more skill to convert a blade to convex than it does to maintain an existing convexed blade though. Be prepared to put in the time on the conversion process if you want the same performance attributes as your bravo.

Mind you it can be done, but you will have to thin out that edge more than just knocking the bevels off to do so. Also note that the barky is a full convex grind, from spine to edge. The RC-6 is flat and you can put a convex edge on it. To do the conversion, you are removing metal from an already aggressively tapered flat grind. To get the same edge angle on the RC-6 as the Bravo-1, you will have much less metal behind the edge and it will not have the same strength as the bravo-1. Thus, I'd advise you not to thin out your RC-6 too much. It is afterall a mid-size blade and you want to keep that edge robust enough for general utility.

Personally, I'm happy knocking of the bevels and polishing the edge by stropping in the normal way you maintain your convex knives. This keeps a robust and sharp enough edge that I believe offers many of the slicing performance attributes that convex has to offer. In fact, I think a flat grind + convex edge offers better slicing than full convex.
 
I am wondering the same thing at the moment. I wish to convex my RC3 mil. Anyone have a step by step tutorial on how to properly do this? What grits sandpaper or how?
 
many people have posted here that you don't need a convex grind in order to use the strop though... any particular reason why you think this way???
 
I recently convexed one of my Izulas. It was my first attempt at convexing and I must say it went pretty well and it's an amazing slicer now.

Take your time and if you go the sand paper route, don't worry about running out of sandpaper. You'll probably go through a sheet or two of the lower grits.

Don't get discouraged that it's not getting sharp on 220 grit, you just want to set the convex, then worry about getting it sharper. You should be getting a usable edge after 400 grit. Don't stop on the middle grits until you have a good edge because you can polish and polish with 1000 and 2000 grit paper all day but if the edge isn't there to begin with, you won't cut anything.

The little Izula took around two hours before I was satisfied. Go slow at it.
 
I always strop for a final edge after sharpening. Whats the advantage to having a convex edge for day to day use.
 
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