Convexing an Axe

G

Greenmachine

Joined
Dec 31, 2009
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Hey everyone. As some of you may already know, I'm fairly new to the boards.

A Fiskars axe has recently come into my collection as a cheap heavy use camp tool. The problem that I have is that the edge that came on it is not very adequate. In fact, it's not even sharp.

I sharpen my current knives with Japanese stones. It took a lot of practice, but I've got the hang of it now. I can get a very sharp edge on my blades so far. I'm still working on getting them scary sharp, but as you know it's mostly technique with those things.

I was thinking about putting a convex edge on my Fiskars, but it would be a ton of metal that I would have to remove using my stones. That, and I'm pretty sure the stones aren't the best way to go when trying to convex a blade for the first time.

What would you all recommend, or what are some good threads I should read? (no search function for me)


Many thanks!
 
well I know the best way to convex a knife is with sandpaper and a mouse pad, but im also interested to hear the best way to do a axe....I'm sure it's probably a belt grinder....but we'll see what some others have to say!
 
Here ya go. Faster than explaining. I would think you could do this with an axe.

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I have sharpened many axes and hand axes (hatchets), some new axes come with an edge that appeared to have been sharpened on a cement road. (very rough)

I use a 1" belt sander to expose the convex shape of the edge, starting with 30 grit and progressing to 120. I have used a finer grit for appearance of a collector piece at times.

I do not use the platen, however I shape and shprpen in the slack region between the platen and the upper wheel, using decreased pressure during the finishing process to remove the wire from the edge.

I am not a "lumberjack" nor do I finish the edge with a stone.
The edge created is durable and very usable for most users.
I sharpened in a knife shop for about 5 years.
 
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Sounds like a job for the beltsander, without power tools it will be a Very laboring job.
 
You'd be amazed how well a quality 4.5" Zirconia Flap disk and a good 4.5" angle grinder work for getting a convex on an ax.
 
Our Estwing and Gransfors Bruks hatchets all get convex touchups on a 1" belt sander.

The Estwing was a little thick from the supplier, so for fun I reground it with a 40 grit zirconia. I didn't like the scratches, so I went a little overboard and mirror polished it with higher grit belts then the leather belt with green compound.

When I tested it I was surprised the new edge bit as deep as the Gransfors, didn't bind, and doesn't chip out even in the winter. I enjoy the Estwing almost as much as the GB's now.
 
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Okay, so the consensus is belt sander. I'll have to go buy one of those now. I have a funny feeling I'm going to be explaining to the Mrs. this purchase for a while.


-Belt Sander
-Start with 30 grit and work to 120 grit.
-Finish with strop and compound or stones if desired.

Is this right?

Many thanks for the replies everyone!
 
My favorite way to maintain most hatchets and axes is with a hard rubber sanding block, the kind used for auto body work, with emery cloth. Cuts and convexes fairly quickly. Belt sander of course would be better if you need to remove major damage.
 
I sharpen axes with a file. (Like most of the lumberjacks here in the Rockies :p )

But if I was going to convex one, (God forbid! :D ) I wouldn't even consider anything other than a belt sander
 
Ben Dover said:
I sharpen axes with a file. (Like most of the lumberjacks here in the Rockies :p )

But if I was going to convex one, (God forbid! :D ) I wouldn't even consider anything other than a belt sander
Click to expand...

I'm new to this game and have an axe in need of a tune up and was wondering what type of a file you use?
 
First off this was my first time ever sharpening a hatchet (or axe) but I feel that it turned out very well and it actually bit me pretty good after i polished it up. I started clamping the hatchet head in my vise with the edge on top then I used a single cut file to grind it down until all the dings and rolls were smoothed out and the edges appeared to meet in the middle. Then I took a course synthetic stone and some motor oil and used the stone like a file in that instead of stroking the blade against the stone I stroked the stone against the blade. I stoned the edge down until it was about able to slice paper and then I took a small ceramic stone to finish it off. Like I said I'm no expert but until you get a belf sander I would suggest trying a technique similar to this and seeing what kind of results you get.
 
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