convexing and edge... advice?

Vaunripped · Jan 29, 2011

i thinking im going to convex the edge of my 6. im going to use the mouse pad and sand paper method. i have tryed it on a few junky knives and it already has worked better for me that my dismal attempts at useing a stone.

the question or advice i need is what grits of sand paper to use, im starting w/ a kinda dulled factory edge.

Thanks for any and all help and comments

Adam Buttry · Jan 29, 2011

I've compared the primary grind and edge geometry of my ESEE 6 to my other knives that are true convex grinds many times. I don't personally think it could be done correctly without removing quite a bit of material from the knife first. The blade is tall and the primary grind is steep. Just knocking the shoulders down and blending in would result in an edge profile considerably less durable than factory imo. It may slice better, but won't be nearly as durable in other tasks. The way I see it, you would need to remove at least 3/16" of material in order to then grind in a true convex edge that would be as durable as the factory edge. A convex grind and edge are nice, but if the profile is too thin you lose all of the benefits. My advice is to leave the factory geometry as it is or be prepared to remove a lot of material to do the job right.

Vaunripped · Jan 30, 2011

ok, thanks for the info, it was more of a passing idea that well i really didnt know how or if i should try it w/ my 6, i did do it to a few of my junk knives that i have had for years now and it did seem to improve their performance, but that could have been just putting an edge on them at all. once again thanks

SteelJunky · Jan 30, 2011

I've been sharpening knives for quite a few years, always used stones, and have gotten pretty good at it. But I must say, when I first tried re-profiling an edge with a convex, it was a whole new experience. Took a LOT of patience.
I would say, if you plan on using the knife for hard use, just stick with the factory grind like already suggested It holds up well, and is as sharp as you'll ever need in the bush.

However, I have to admit that I find sharpening knives is for me, more like a hobby in itself, sort of a therapy. I've actually had quite a few friends from work ask me to sharpen their knives for them. That being said, re-profiling is IMHO a good skill to learn. it can allow you to put a crazy sharp edge on a blade that only had a butter-knife sharpness to start with.

Sorry for the rant, to answer your question, I've started with 320 grit, worked through 400, 650, and 1200, and then finished on the leather strop. YMMV, but I've gone through A LOT of sand paper. Also, I always use wet/dry sandpaper, and a squirt bottle.

SJ

Vaunripped · Jan 30, 2011

i dont really plan on putting it to hard use, it will have to break small kindling and basic camp work but i have a sawvivor and am working on getting a good tomahawk that will handle all the real uglys but i still want a relatively strong edge.

thanks for the info it will help me alot.

scotsmanspride · Jan 30, 2011

If you plan on convexing alot get a 1 or 2 x 42 belt sander from sears or HF and then hit up lee valley tools for the belts a leather strop for it. Makes life much easier. Dont know how much different the grind is on the 6 from my 4... But i did my 4 and it is so much better now at most tasks and edge retention is fantastic.

SteelJunky · Jan 30, 2011

scotsmanspride said:
If you plan on convexing alot get a 1 or 2 x 42 belt sander from sears or HF and then hit up lee valley tools for the belts a leather strop for it. Makes life much easier. Dont know how much different the grind is on the 6 from my 4... But i did my 4 and it is so much better now at most tasks and edge retention is fantastic.

This is something I've considered, and may be the way to go if you want results fast. Maybe I'm nutz, but like I said before, this is like therapy for me. If this is something you decide to try be careful, and maybe practice on those cheapo knives. If you were to get the blade to hot with an electric sander, I would think you could destroy the heat treat in at least localized areas. Take your time, and consider using a wet rag to cool the blade down while you work. If you see any metal turn blue, its already to late. just don't let the blade get to hot to touch.

scotsmanspride · Jan 30, 2011

SteelJunky said:
This is something I've considered, and may be the way to go if you want results fast. Maybe I'm nutz, but like I said before, this is like therapy for me. If this is something you decide to try be careful, and maybe practice on those cheapo knives. If you were to get the blade to hot with an electric sander, I would think you could destroy the heat treat in at least localized areas. Take your time, and consider using a wet rag to cool the blade down while you work. If you see any metal turn blue, its already to late. just don't let the blade get to hot to touch.

For sure try some cheapo knives first. Sharpening is therapy for me as well. I use this mainly for axe, and if i ever get dings or chips. And sometimes i am just in a hurry with the 2 year old running around. Just be very careful with the lower grits and the tip.