Convexing Folder Blades

M

me2

Joined
Oct 11, 2003
Messages
5,097
Has anyone besides Buzzbait put a convex edge on a tactical folder? I was thinking of doing it to my BM 805 TSEK. I put full convex grinds on an old Schrade folder and it worked quite well. I just used slack sandpaper clamped to a table, took it to 1200 grit and then stropped it. Just wondering if it was worth the effort. I was planning to start with 100 grit SiC wet/dry paper and work to the finest I can find, which is probably around 2000, if not then 1200.
 
I don't really know how tactical it is, but I full convexed a BM Leopard Cub. I also thinned and convexed the edge on a Calypso Jr. Very much worth it on both. I used a bench hone to do mine. Much faster than sandpaper for me.
 
I have convexed the blade on a CRKT PECK folder. Since the blade was straight, it was fairly easy. I havent tried a curved blade with a stone. I figured it would be easier to do it with sandpaper to follow the curve at the tip.
 
I am mainly interested for cosmetic reasons. I just like the way convex blades look. They also ususally cut better because there is a fair amount of thinning that goes on when doing it from a flat ground blade. I was also thinking that the 806 would be a better cutter if it could be convexed. It would mean taking off the coating, but thats not really a problem for me.
 
I convexed my Queen D2 Stockman. Reprofiling the main blade was the most work, convexing was easy in comparison. Looks real nice, but I'm thinking it's not tactical enough for you.

Gordon
 
Tactical is not a requirement. I just wondered if anyone had tried on a larger pocket-clip, one handed, locking folder (tactical folder, I think tactical is an acronym for all the above traits). Buzzbait did it on a Spyderco Military and was very happy with the results. I tend to favor slack sandpaper rather than the mousepad or other methods. The edge on the TSEK is already covexed, but I think I would like it better with the entire blade done. I used up an 80 grit belt doing the initial work on the Schrade, but that was both blades. On the other hand, the TSEK is discontinued, so maybe I should leave it alone, and try this trick on a drop point griptillian.
 
I put a convex edge on my 806D2. Easy to maintain and rediculously sharp for a good long time.

It will do the "treetop cutting hairs" and "cut a free hanging hair" thing but will also keep that edge after plenty of use. And, when it needs to be touched up all it usually needs is a little stropping (chromium oxide loaded) and it comes right back.

My little Al Mar Hawk would not be at it's best with a convex edge, but this is the best edge so far for my AFCK.
 
I just resharpened the straight portion of a CRKT Hissatsu on an 800 grit water stone using the stropping motion described. It looks great, but the tip is a little more problematic. The motion described doesnt seem like it would work too well on the belly of a blade. I also tried the stropping on a mouse pad, and on some leather on a board. The leather worked, but the mouse pad didnt seem to work well for me. I also tried some soft foam, but again, it didnt seem to work. So far, a 1" strip of sandpaper and a clamp work quickly and I dont have trouble with the belly, although I must admit to not having tried a curved edge on a flat stone. I could see how a bench stone would work faster, because you can put more pressure on it than slack paper.
 
Bark River has some long knives that are convex ground. If they can put a convex edge on a "Golok", the average tactical knife should be a piece of cake. Crocodile Dundee would look at a Golok and say, "Now that's a knife."

Check out their web site.
 
do it all the time. as others have said - works great and easy to maintain.

Get a little belt sander 1x42 or 1x30 from the hardware store and it's a piece of cake to put on any knife.

I usuallyi start at 220 grit though...I don't the deeper scratches left by the coarse grits.
 
I have a combo edge CRKT M18, I reprofiled the edge to what I guess you could call a chisel ground convex. I love it, cuts like a dream, and sails through pretty much any medium I take it to. It was the first knife that I was able to get sharp enough to chop through free hanging paper. I used the mousepad and sandpaper method, finishing on a 1200 grit and then hitting the strop with chromium oxide and jeweller's rouge, and topping that off with some Flitz on cardboard. Well worth the time and effort.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top