So I have been trying to convex my swamprat HRLM, and have gotten it fairly sharp. However, I feel it should be WAY sharper. It will barely shave and cut paper. Here is the grits I use. 400-1000-2000. I already have the edge shaped. I am using the sandpaper over a strop, and then a strop loaded with white compound, which will make my benchmade griptillion split hairs. Any idea why I cannot get it very sharp? Also, it does not bite into wood very well at all, for ex. my bark river psk bites twice as deep. The only thing I can come up with is I may not be at a low enough angle.
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Convexing help needed.
- Thread starter nc527
- Start date
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2010
- Messages
- 726
My guess would be either your angle is too wide, or you are using too much pressure, or both. Reprofile to a thinner edge angle, and use the least amount of pressure that you can when sharpening. Almost always works like a champ.
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
- Messages
- 13,538
My two cents:
I've just started convexing a few knives, in the method you've described (sandpaper on a strop). One thing I noticed immediately, when I tried it, it's MUCH easier to put some real 'bite' in the edge if you start with a lower grit (like 220), then proceed gradually up from there (220, 320, 400, and beyond if you wish). The 220 will quickly put a very toothy edge on the blade. Then, being very careful to maintain the same sharpening angle, it's a lot easier to refine that toothy edge to shaving sharp (at least) with the medium and fine grits. Then strop as you normally would, again being very careful to maintain the same, consistent angle. Check the edge frequently as you go, to be sure you're still getting progressively sharper and not undoing previous good work.
I've also noticed some significant burring from this method, even at the finer grits. I used a Spyderco ceramic stone to (very lightly) scrub the burr away, at the very edge. Then strop.
I've just started convexing a few knives, in the method you've described (sandpaper on a strop). One thing I noticed immediately, when I tried it, it's MUCH easier to put some real 'bite' in the edge if you start with a lower grit (like 220), then proceed gradually up from there (220, 320, 400, and beyond if you wish). The 220 will quickly put a very toothy edge on the blade. Then, being very careful to maintain the same sharpening angle, it's a lot easier to refine that toothy edge to shaving sharp (at least) with the medium and fine grits. Then strop as you normally would, again being very careful to maintain the same, consistent angle. Check the edge frequently as you go, to be sure you're still getting progressively sharper and not undoing previous good work.
I've also noticed some significant burring from this method, even at the finer grits. I used a Spyderco ceramic stone to (very lightly) scrub the burr away, at the very edge. Then strop.