convexing Izula?

[harkamus]

What's the easiest method to convex it? I was under the impression that the grind convexes it self due to the subtle movements the hand makes when one strops. Am I correct, or is there some other method I should be trying?

 

[rayban]

If you go to youtube.com and search "how to convex a knife" you'll find several tutorials on the subject.
I just had mine done by a MASTER, knifenut1013...he didn't do it the easiest way by a long stretch....but I can't imagine anyone doing it any better.....this one split a single strand of hair 4 times..
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=707494

 

[Willieboy]

I spoke with Mike Stewart of Bark River Knife and Tool about convexing my blades. He said not to worry about specific angles. Like you suggested, the convexing takes care of itself.

There are many guides on the net to show you how to do it.

I start with 400 grit sandpaper following by 600 grit. I mount the paper on a mouse pad or leather strap. Just don't push too hard. You don't need pressure beyond the weight of the blade.

To keep the knives sharp, touch them up on a leather pad charged with black and then green compound. I also have a leather pad charged with Flitz, but that's probably overkill. Many people only use the green compound and skip the black.

Just be patient. In time you'll have a nice convexed edge.

 

[harkamus]

Sounds good.

One last question, which is easier to maintain? Convexed or not?

 

[Wandering_About]

I find a convex easier to maintain.

I also convex my blades on stones. Sounds odd, but it works well. I end up with an edge that is much more slightly convex than you see on a lot of blades, and sometimes put a microbevel on them. Works very well.

Never worry too much about the angle. I just do it to the angle I have found works best, which is quite thin.

 

[hoopster]

Understand there's a difference between convexing the edge bevel and a full convex blade. What Knifenut1013 did to Rayban's Izula was a full convex grind if I'm correct.

 

[cybrok]

Mousepad and sandpaper.

Leather for the finish.

[youtube]rLohb_lJ2hI[/youtube]

I start with 220 grit to remove the bevel. This is the hardest part.

 

[cybrok]

To keep the knives sharp, touch them up on a leather pad charged with black and then green compound. I also have a leather pad charged with Flitz, but that's probably overkill. Many people only use the green compound and skip the black.

The green is finer.

The Best all around compound is the black stuff our Dealers carry in the kit.

The black will restore an edge faster than any other Compound I have ever used.

I have used the same Stuff for over 30 years.

You can go to the green after to further Refine it but in the field I never even bother.

Mike

(Mike Stewart)

 

[Bigfattyt]

Convex blades to me are much much easier to maintain than v grind.

With bigger blades (heavier knives) I don't even allow the full weight of the blade to rest on the sandpaper/mousepad. With big heavy knives, this can actually dull it due to the sandpaper actually moving perpendicular to the blade.

Watch as many tutorials as you can find. on both convexing the edge, and maintaining the convex.

I only us sandpaper again, when I damage the edge, beyond simply being dull.

 

[Jason B.]

The convex I did to rayban's izula could be considered a full convex but it is only effecting the last 3/8 to 1/2in of the blade. A full convex would be from spine to edge and the izula is just not thick enough for that. A true convex bevel blends the main grind with the edge, this provides you with the true performance values of a convex in a way that a simple convex bevel at the edge could only hope for. There is a lot to convexing and everyone makes it sound easy when in reality its much more complex than you think. My suggestion would Be to test your skills on a cheap knife first.

 

[harkamus]

How does convexed compare to microbeveled? I'm thinking maybe I should just microbevel. Seems easier. I'll practice convexing on another knife til I become proficient.

 

[Jason B.]

Micro bevels work good if you back bevel is thin enough. Say you have a 15 main and a 20 micro, this really does nothing except give you a fatter cutting edge that ends up cutting like crap. If you make you back Bevel 8-10 and give it a micro around 15 then you will see why and how a microbevel can be effective. It does not cut like a convex will but is probably the easiest bevel to maintain.