Convexing.

K

knucklestick

Joined
Jul 10, 2009
Messages
126
Now that stripping was a success, I think it is time to look into convexing my NMSFNO.

Does anybody have a good link?
 
resinguy said:
http://www.barkriverknives.com/convex.htm

http://www.knivesshipfree.com/pages/Sharpening-Videos

I use a Harbor Freight 1x30 belt grinder.
Click to expand...

+1 on all that, I have the HF 1x30, but have moved up to a Delta 1x42.
For quick touch ups or sharpening the little 1x30 is great, but for major work, the bigger the better....
The longer and wider the belt, the cooler it will be.
Also, get some good zirconium(sp?) belts, they cut way faster and cooler then the standard ones.
 
You can also colnvex by hand. Sandpaper and mouseppad and tape. I put the mousep,ad on a sheet of glass then tape the sand paper over the top. The sheet op glass is bigger than the sandpandpaper. Even convexed my Fbmle this way. Took forever.

If you are going to do the belt sander route, go slow. Get some cheapo knives to practice on. Especially the tips. You can screw a grind and heat treat up real quick.

Was not too hard by hand. I have a HF 1x30. It is a ton quicker and I can get knives stupid sharp. But my tip work needs more practice before I use it on my infi. I am on my phone, so no links or pics.
 
If you get a belt sander be careful. Not only do you need to be carefull at the tip but also at the start of the edge at the choil and from the belly to the tip. There is more to it than people let on. If you look at most of the pics of convexed busses's, including some of mine, look at these areas. Usually u will see mistakes. It is easy to round of the begining of the edge by the choil and also make the angle too thin. At the tip it is easy to round that off, even easier with flexible belts. You can even round off a tip slightly with a leather strop if ur not careful. From the belly to the tip is tricky and you can end up putting a flat spot there if you don't know what you are doing.

It is all very easy once you figure out the little things. But, it is so easy to screw up if ur not practiced at the "art". I am by no means an expert but these are a few of the things I have picked up from actually doing it.

I can now sharpen any size blade easily and avoid all of the aformentioned problems.

Good luck if you try a beltsander. If I was u I would do it by hand and keep the factory profile. By hand is much easier and due to the slower style it is much harder to mess up (u see it happening before it is too late)

I hope this helps and does not sound like a know it all rant. I know I don't know it all, not even close :)
 
I'll probably do some machetes first and see how it goes.

I have a little experience putting a satin finish on a rusted double bitted axe head.

I tore the hell out my thumb's knuckles on a freinds belt sander. I also frigged up an edge a little bit. It happens pretty quick.

Maybe I'll do my Busses by hand, but I'd like to be able to get the hang of a belt sander.
 
The NMSFNO is a good chopper. Fully convexed, its a great chopper.

Eights017.jpg
 
I've got to mirror what richstag said. Holding the same angle near the tip can be difficult as well. What can happen is you're going to be extra paranoid about pressure near the tip, and you end up not grinding it at all leaving a misshapen tip. The part about the choil is true as well, as i'm guilty of this myself. For me, problems only come up when I become overzealous and decide to grind on the edge with a belt way too coarse.
 
knucklestick said:
Garth?
Click to expand...

Garth Reckner is the head of the Busse Custom shop, and in charge of all knife mods and custom orders. So, if you wanted to change the edge profile, but were reluctant to attack your knife with a grinder and worry about the warranty, then you could talk to Garth about having the Shop do it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top