Convexing

Quarter Tank

Quarter Tank

Joined
Dec 30, 2010
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762
So, I've had my BK2 convexed and its much easier for me to keep it sharp since I don't have a clue about sharping with stones etc.

I just picked up a BK11. Wondering if convexing it is worth it?

Like I said I dont have the means to keep it at the 20 degrees I think its at, but I can easily keep it convexed. Should I switch it over?
 
As a newbie, I think this is a great question - I have a BK2 and BK14 now, and look forward to the responses. :)
 
I am still learning as well. But as of now, if any of my edged steel can't shave hair or paper, I give them away as gifts. There may be many levels of sharpness above what i can achieve at this time, but I have not found a situation where shaving sharp, is just not sharp enough. I like my GatCo diamond sharpening system w/ceramic honing stone. I also bought a 1"x30" belt sander for $29 at Harbor Frieght, picked up some belts & a 1200 grit belt & leather belt from an online company. I do not have them down to a science yet, but i am working on it.
 
How are you getting the BK2 convexed? Are you paying for it?

Another thing to consider is what will you be using the knifes for? I find the smaller ones better to keep a "V" grind on while I keep my BK2 convexed.

Also (and lastly) where will you be taking them? Field sharpening will be and issue to address as well.

I'm sure others will chime in with much more helpful info but because these knifes are lifers you might want to invest in a system to sharpen as well. I have DMT, Sharpmaker, sandpaper/mousepad and a strop. Available funds are needed of course but again, beakers are "lifers" to me. Worth it to shun another knife in the stable for a good sharpening/care system as well in my humble opinion.
 
I started the BK2 convexing with a mousepad and 150 grit sandpaper but eventually opted to have a professional finish it up for me.

I don't plan to buy a belt sander, but I do have 2 strops (green and black Bark River compound) strops here at the house. I also have a few scrap pieces of leather to make a field strop for the pack.

I agree Beckers are lifers for me too

I do plan to EDC this knife and so it will get used and if i dont have the means to keep it sharp the way it already is my thought is to convex it so I can keep it maintained...
 
The 11 would be an excellent one to convex, especially if it's your first. Pick up a hand sander like this:

hand%20sander%20Hs901.jpg


Hold it upside down and strop tip to heel starting with 100 grit paper and work your way down (use wet or dry 200,500,800, etc.) to 2000 grit. Take your time, it's easy and you really can't screw it up. You can strop with black then finish with green buffing compound on your leather strop. Good edge and easy to maintain. Take a shot at it. :thumbup:


randy
 
tradewater said:
The 11 would be an excellent one to convex, especially if it's your first. Pick up a hand sander like this:

hand%20sander%20Hs901.jpg


Hold it upside down and strop tip to heel starting with 100 grit paper and work your way down (use wet or dry 200,500,800, etc.) to 2000 grit. Take your time, it's easy and you really can't screw it up. You can strop with black then finish with green buffing compound on your leather strop. Good edge and easy to maintain. Take a shot at it. :thumbup:


randy
Click to expand...

Where can you get a sander like that, and what is it called?

Thank you.
 
It's a hand sander. The picture is just an example. Any hand sander that will secure a piece of paper and has a rubber pad will work fine. You can get them at any hardware store, walmart, lowes, home depot, etc.
Holding it by the handle upside down keeps your hand out of the way and it's portable. You can watch CSI and convex your knife at the same time. The main thing is to be patient and spend enough time with the coarse grits to get the edge geometry where you want it. Work tip to heel with a very shallow angle. It takes light pressure and a lot of strokes to get there. Keep the number of strokes roughly the same on each side. Five or ten then switch works well. Start with a flea market, yard sale or kitchen knife and spend an evening or two learning how before you move on to the real thing. Hope this helps. Be patient above all. You won't think you're getting anywhere at first but when you hit about 400 grit or so, all of a sudden it starts getting really, really sharp.

randy
 
Last edited:
half hour of going at it with 150 grit

should be ready by the end of the day (time pending with honey do's) for the leather strop...

DSC00062.jpg


DSC00058.jpg


DSC00068.jpg
 
I've been convexing some of my "non Becker" blades lately. Started with my FBF machete, touched up my FBF Hunter, convexed my TOPS XCEST, and a couple of folders I have. My Beckers will more than likely always have a V edge. If I ever do one, it will be my BK9.

I use a mouse pad, but I start at 300gt, and work my way up to 600gt W/D. Seems to get them shaving sharp. My FBF machete is a beast after I convexed it. It'll take down 2-3" green alders in one swipe, no problem.

I did something interesting with my XCEST. That thing has such a thick blade, and low grind, the edge was nearly impossible to sharpen well. So, I took it to the grinder, made it a scandi, then I put a micro convex secondary bevel on it. She'll cut now, for sure.

Good luck, keep it up, its a skill worth knowing. 2 months ago, I couldn't convex nothing, but I'm getting better.

Moose
 
If I'm thinking of the right thing. I did my 14 on my stones. It took no time at all, and it stays sharp for a long time (even after making a fork).

I have a question though; why do you say to strop from tip to hilt? I've been doing it the other way.


Anyway here is a pic of my edge.
DSC07352.jpg
 
Brother, I love seeing rust on a knife. Seriously, no BS, means its getting used.

I do have one question, did you raise your hands over your head and run around in circles going, "BWAAAAA!!!!"?:D

My BK2 and my BK14 have a couple of "spots" that I gotta hit with some oil tonight, watch it turn black.

Moose
 
MyWifeThinksImCrazy said:
I have a question though; why do you say to strop from tip to hilt? I've been doing it the other way.
Click to expand...

I used to do it heel to tip as well because that's how I learned it. The guru of the convex edge told me try it the way he does it and I did. It's much easier, for me anyway, to maintain the proper angle (I think because it's easier to drop the angle from tip to heel than lift it heel to tip consistantly). The main thing is what works for you and if you're getting good results then stick with it. However, if I were going to teach my grandson how to do it, it would be tip to heel. It's easier to learn IMHO. I can do it either way but that way gives me the best results. Your edge looks pretty good there.

:thumbup:
randy
 
moosez45 said:
Brother, I love seeing rust on a knife. Seriously, no BS, means its getting used.

I do have one question, did you raise your hands over your head and run around in circles going, "BWAAAAA!!!!"?:D

My BK2 and my BK14 have a couple of "spots" that I gotta hit with some oil tonight, watch it turn black.

Moose
Click to expand...

Well hell ya I'm using it.
And no, I was running around yelling 'amuck, amuck, amuck!!!!!' (look that up if you don't already know :D) Then I used it some more on unsuspecting trees. :cool:

tradewater said:
I used to do it heel to tip as well because that's how I learned it. The guru of the convex edge told me try it the way he does it and I did. It's much easier, for me anyway, to maintain the proper angle (I think because it's easier to drop the angle from tip to heel than lift it heel to tip consistantly). The main thing is what works for you and if you're getting good results then stick with it. However, if I were going to teach my grandson how to do it, it would be tip to heel. It's easier to learn IMHO. I can do it either way but that way gives me the best results. Your edge looks pretty good there.

:thumbup:
randy
Click to expand...

I've tried it tip to heel a couple times I just thought that it wasn't really doing much. I'll give it another shot next time and see how it comes out.
 
tradewater said:
It's a hand sander. The picture is just an example. Any hand sander that will secure a piece of paper and has a rubber pad will work fine. You can get them at any hardware store, walmart, lowes, home depot, etc.
Holding it by the handle upside down keeps your hand out of the way and it's portable. You can watch CSI and convex your knife at the same time. The main thing is to be patient and spend enough time with the coarse grits to get the edge geometry where you want it. Work tip to heel with a very shallow angle. It takes light pressure and a lot of strokes to get there. Keep the number of strokes roughly the same on each side. Five or ten then switch works well. Start with a flea market, yard sale or kitchen knife and spend an evening or two learning how before you move on to the real thing. Hope this helps. Be patient above all. You won't think you're getting anywhere at first but when you hit about 400 grit or so, all of a sudden it starts getting really, really sharp.

randy
Click to expand...

Thanks Randy.

I got a bunch of kitchen knives I can practice on. Then I'll give my BK11 a try.
 
I've tried it tip to heel a couple times I just thought that it wasn't really doing much. I'll give it another shot next time and see how it comes out.




At the least you'll two ways to do it and you can pick the best for you.

randy
 
I've done both of my 2's, but I like the v grind on the 9 and the 11 and it will be awhile before I change anything with those (if ever). When I get the BK7 in, I may thin it out a little but don't think I'll convex it either. The convexed 2's will blast wood apart batoning but slice better with the v grind.
 
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