Cool Flashlights and Bulbs

R

Ralf

Joined
Oct 11, 1998
Messages
565
 
Thanks for those links. Probably the best thing about the forums is the amount of information available from the members, this is especialy true when it comes to providing website links. I really liked those LED lights (pricey though at $300).

Better and better equipment is available all the time. I still remember when Maglight was the epitome of high tech (still have one on my keychain).
 
Ah yes, the topic of illumination returns. Excellent.
smile.gif
I took a look at some of those links and yikes, a bit pricey I have to say. Very cool though. Would anybody happen to know if www.carleylamps.com sells to the public? I can't seem to find an ordering page on their site. The Carley's are more of a practical solution for me.

------------------
ET

 
I've been happy with places like Bulb Direct and Sunray for flashlight lamps, and Radio Shack for LEDs to make my own lights. After a few years of trying out different types of flashlights, bulbs and batteries I figured out I like 'old tech', and stocked up on longer life and lower battery consumption PR6, PR9, and PR17 lamps. The difference in battery use has been amazing, as some of the halogen lamps in the 2 D cell lights were drawing almost 1 amp of current while the PR6 draws 300 milliamps and still provides plenty of light if a decent reflector is used. The PR9, my long life backup, only draws 150 milliamps. The PR17 used with 6 volt lanterns only draws 300 milliamps and is the one that I use the most, as it seems to work well with non-alkaline heavy duty lantern batteries that I can find on sale for less than $3 each sometimes. In addition to a lot longer battery life the old fashioned lamps above are all rated for a lamp life that is 3X to 5X that of typical halogens, miner's lamps excluded, and cost a lot less too as even the good Philips, Sylvania and GE lamps are often a $1 or less. I still include a halogen bulb among the replacement bulbs for each lamp in the car, but have otherwise replaced all of the halogen bulbs in all of our flashlights with standard bulbs.

Something to watch out for when using lower current lamps are non-plated contacts in cheaper flashlights, as the oxidation on the contacts can mimic low batteries and/or bad bulbs.
 
ET,

Yes, Carley will sell direct to you if you are ordering ~10bulbs. I suspect the reason you don't find web pages that sell them has to do with their low cost. Shipping cost will overwhelm single lamp orders.

Stay Sharp,
Sid
 
ET,

I think that Tim Flanagan, noreastknives@bigfoot.com carries the Carley lamps. He doesn't have a web site but try sending him an email. He is a forumite and I would strongly recommend him.
 
ET,

Carley will sell direct to you but they want a $50 minimum order to make it worth their time. They told me they prefer to deal with distributors. What do you need? I have 3, 4 and 5 cell xenon stars left over from my last order.

Chagnon's used to sell the xenon star but now only carry the krypton star. You can check them out at: www.outdoor-catalog.com

------------------
"A knifeless man is a lifeless man"
-Nordic proverb

 
I probably won't be ordering from Carley directly if I need to buy $50 worth of bulbs. Here's the lights that I need bulbs for:

6D Maglite (my own)
4D Maglite (brother's)
3D Maglite (Xmas gift for a relative)
2D Maglite (possibly my next light)

If bulbs don't go bad over time, I might consider getting 2 of each. Also, I remember one posting where Walt Welch went into some detail about the Krypton and Xenon bulbs and the type that you use is dependant on the batteries you're using. Unfortunately, physics class was a long time ago and after reading Walt's post and looking at Carley's web site, I'm still really confused. All of the lights that I have listed above will be using regular rechargeable NiCad's. Not the high capacity ones that Radio Shack sells but the regular ones. Can you guys recommend what type I should get and explain why the rechargeable bulbs give off a brighter light? I thought NiCad's were lower in voltage. Must have something to do with the amperage I'm guessing. TIA
smile.gif


------------------
ET

 
ET,

I have one each of the 3, 4 and 5 cell that I'm willing to sell at $5 each. They don't go bad over time and are lasting longer than I expected.

There are three types of Carley Lamps for flashlights. The Krypton Star for alkaline batteries. Krypton Star for recharchable batteries. And Xenon Star for alkaline batteries.

I find the Krypton Star for alkalines is very similar to the Mag-Lite Mag-Num Star bulb. Both in design and performance. They are a step above regular bulbs including those with Krypton gas in them.

The Krypton Star for rechargeables is worth the price in my opinion. I have the 2R in a Tec-20 light and Nexcell AA NiMH batteries. This combination is slightly brighter than my 2D Maglite with a Xenon Star and Duracell Ultras. But at 25-40 minute burn time isn't for general use. The rechargeable versions are voltage matched for 1.2 nicad/nimh batteries. These can burn brighter than the Xenon Stars because they have a higher amp requirement. The 2 cell is rated at 1.3 amps. The 3 through 7 cell rechargeables can be had in 1.2, 1.5 and 1.7 amps. To get watts you multiply voltage times amps. For example: 2R is 2.4v X 1.3amps = 3.12watts. 2 cell XS is 3v X .84amps = 2.52watts. You can see why my Tec-20 combo would be a little brighter than my 2D Maglite. Using the rechargeable bulb will not work with alkalines. It will be bright but not as bright as it could be. D-Cell Alkaline batteries can have 12-15 amphour capacity but even the high quality ones cannot put out more than .9amps at a time. Lithium, Nicad, NiMH and Lead Acid batteries have less internal resistance and can put out more than 1amphour at a time. That is why they are the batteries of choice for bright flashlights like the Sure-Fires.

Xenon Stars are the perfect compromise for cheap price, ease of use (compared to halogens), brightness and long battery burntimes. I have one Maglite each in 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 cell with a Xenon Star. They're great.

------------------
"A knifeless man is a lifeless man"
-Nordic proverb

 
David,

Thanx for the offer but I really do need a 6 cell bulb first. (Damn, why did I have to be a tough guy and buy that super huge Maglite?) I see from Carley's web site that I can't even get the Krypton Star rechargeable bulb for my light. (There were plenty of practical sized Mags and you just had to be different didn't you? Kicking myself) Your explanation has cleared up some things but I was wondering if you or anyone else could answer a few more questions for the physics-challenged:

1) I believe that the type of metals used in batteries determines the volts but what determines the amps? Is it the load or the battery? I don't think batteries list their amperage.

2) Carley offers bulbs in 1.2, 1.5 and 1.7 amps. Why would you want the 1.2 and 1.5 amps when you could get the 1.7? Is it for those who want a longer burn time? Personally all I want is super bright white light using NiCads. Burn time isn't really a factor.

3a) Why can't I use NiCads in the alkaline krypton and xenon bulbs? Walt once said something about premature lamp failure. Does it have something to do with my first question of amperage and loads?

3b) Is using NiCads with the regular Mag bulb ok? I've been doing this for a while and I think it's ok.

4) Does anyone know of a flashlight forum so I don't keep asking flashlight questions on BFC? (Although this is where I learned much about flashlights)

------------------
ET

 
Eveready/Energyzer has a new light out that uses a xenon/halogen bulb (3watt I think). It runs on 4 AAA batteries. Its narrow and fits easily in the waist band while being held in place by its larger diameter lens case. Its called the double barrel. It has 2 larger versions of the same.

I also like the underwater Kinetics mini dive light that runs on 4 AA bats. Xenon bulb. It blows away anything else that I've ever owned of conventional flashlight bulb type. Only problem is that it runs on screw on lens type switch. I want THAT light with a momentary switch (low profile, and selective for momentary/ continuous on) like the one on the double barrel. It runs on rechargables, although they don't burn the bulb as bright as alkalines. The only momentary switch that I could find was from Radio shack and it was high profile and I melted one of the underwater kinetics lights w/solering iron ruining it. Do you have any recommendations on how to get this combination?.....In particular:
1. That kind of switch the double barrel has.
2. Runs on narrow AA bateries preferably (No lithiums).
3. Extremely bright Xenon bulb.

Like I said, the Underwater Kinetics w/ that kind of switch would be perfect, esp. if mounted on the side.
 
ET; the answers to your questions:

1) Both the battery and lamp influence actual amperage. The battery is often the limiting factor, as it cannot supply enough current to make the lamp the limiting factor.

2) Yes, the lower amperage lamps for NiCds are offered for longer burn time. Typical burn time for hi-cap D cells in 3 and 4 cell Mag Lites is 60-90 min, with the highest (1.7A) amperage lamps.

3a) The problem with using lamps designed for alkaline batteries with NiCds is that the alkaline batteries will decrease their voltage in a linear fashion with use. NiCd's, on the other hand, tend to maintain a fairly constant voltage with use until they are nearly discharged. This is why a flashlight with alks will slowly get dimmer with time, while a NiCd flashlight will often go dim and then out rapidly. What affects lamp life is that the lamp is kept at a higher average voltage with the NiCds than the alks, thus, using alk lamps with NiCds will cause premature failure.

3b)If you are using regular PR lamps with NiCds, this will cause premature lamp failure, but since the things are dirt cheap, go right ahead if you want. In addition the life isn't affected all that badly, typically decreased by 30-40%; hardly a limiting financial concern if you're using PR lamps.

4)Sorry, I don't know of a flashlight forum; perhaps someone else does.

5)If you wish my advice concerning your situation, put your 6 cell light into reserve use, and get some 3 or 4 D cell Mag-Lights, and use alkalines and Xenon lamps. The Xenon lamps ROCK! They give nearly as much light as the rechargables, and last 10-12 HOURS.

Hope this helps, Walt
 
Walt,

Thank you greatly for your responses, especially part 3a. I didn't pick up on that average voltage concept although I knew about those 2 types of discharge. But based on your answer I've got another question. Most people who use alks don't use them to their very death. They toss them once they get unreasonably dull. Did your response of the higher average voltage take this "artificially" short life into consideration? Does this also have something to do with the fact that bulbs are labelled 5.2 volts even though if you total it, you get 6 volts (4 batteries X 1.5 volts)

I also experience premature failure in my AA Mag when I use alks as opposed to NiCads. Is this contradictory to your explanation? My brother's explanation for the failure was something like this: When using the alks, the average voltage may be lower over the course of time but when you put a fresh pair into your light you're exceeding the voltage by such an extreme amount and thus this "extremeness" causes more damage to the bulb than the average higher voltage of the NiCads. These questions are getting a little technical aren't they? Hope you can still answer them though. TIA.

------------------
ET



[This message has been edited by ET (edited 08 November 1999).]
 
To answer your first question, yes, the shortened life of the alk lamp used with NiCds does assume average use of the alks. While the alks start at 1.5V, they drop linearly. NiCds vary in voltage from the time that they have been charged, but 1.2V is a good average. Alk lamps used with NiCd batteries will stay at about 1.2V longer than with alks, which is what shortens their life.

The AA Mag Light lamp is designed for alkaline use. Therefore, I see no reason why lamp life should be shortened by use of alk (vs. NiCd) batteries. The only time I use NiCd batteries in my AA Mag Lights is for my 7 yo son's use, as he tends to forget and leave them on. The lamp for the AA Mag Light is so small that it rapidly becomes dark from deposited tungsten (although quartz lamps are supposed to prevent this, I think that the AA doesn't burn hot enough to prevent it), so I find myself replacing the lamps before they burn out. Thus, I have noticed no difference in lamp life, as I replace them rather sooner than necessary (every 6 to 8 months; don't use AA much).

Hope this helps, Walt
 
Equalizer; you may consider the Sure-Fire type of flashlights. Yep, they are expensive, and reputed to be fragile (but I have had only one lamp failure due to supposed rough handling), and run for only an hour, but it is a BRIGHT hour. From a very compact flashlight.

Its' drawbacks, other than price and possibility of fragility of the lamp assembly, is the cost of the Li cells. If you browse high enough on the food chain, however, the price gets down to near $3.50 each, which is not bad for an emergency use flashlight.

It does have a screw type on switch, but a rubber, intermittant-on button on the base cap as well. Fresnel lens type, no focus possible, but the bottom line is that you will have it with you, whereas your D-cell MagLight may be back in the car.

Hope this helps, Walt
 
I love artificial illumination...Here's some of my tricks:

--3D maglite with Radio Shack Hi-Cap rechargeable (4.5AH) batts and a halogen bulb for a 2D lite, also from radio shack...VERY bright, and the bulb hasn't burned out, yet (remember that nicads are rated at 1.2 V).
--Streamlight 20XP with a 35X bulb assembly, and a custom battery pack consisting of 3000MAH NiMH sub-c cells...VERY VERY bright, and also only weighs about a pound...But lamp heat is an issue with the plastic light.
--Streamlight 20X w/a 35X bulb...VERY bright, batt last about 40minutes, but the heat build up is tremendous...

--dan
 
EQUALIZER,

The Energizer Double Barrel has been around for two years maybe more. It is a series/parallel flashlight. There are 2AAA batteries connected in series. There are two series connected in parallel. Series connections for batteries is - to +. Parallel connections are + to + and - to -. The series connection doubles the batteries voltage or 1.5V + 1.5V = 3V. The parallel connection doubles the Ah or 1150mAh + 1150mAh = ~2300mAh for the AAA E92 Energizer. For comparison 2 AA E91 Energizers will have the same 3V with 2850mAh.

The bulb (T2-2) of the 4AAA (model D410) Double Barrel is rated at 2.4V and .57A. Better than generic but average for a premium flashlight. The Pelican MityLite Magnum takes 2AA and is rated at 2.4V and .6A. I calculate the battery runtime for the Double Barrel at 4 hours w/Energizer E92. And the Pelican MityLite Magnum at 4 hours 45 minutes w/Energizer E91. Of course tempature and use can effect runtimes. The Pelican is advertised with 3 hour runtime at 50°F

The 4AAA Double Barrel is worth the money but there are better flashlights out there. And I think it is overly complicated. There is a zoom feature and it looks cool. The cheapest I’ve seen it is $15. The Pelican MityLite Magnum is a better constructed flashlight and is waterproof to 500ft. I bought one for $12. The Princeton Tec Tec-20 (2AA) has a Halogen bulb rated at 2.5V and .5A. It is waterproof to 2000ft and has a advertised runtime of 2-3 hours. I bought one for $14 There is no focus feature but you can choose between a narow and wide focus reflectors.

The UKE 4AA is an excellent flashlight. They also have the same bulb assembly in a flashlight that uses 2 DL123A Lithium batteries called the UKE 2L. The twist on switch is annoying at first but then you get used to it. You should look at the Streamlight ProPolymer series. There is a 2AA, 4AA and 3C version. They are waterproof to 200ft and have a momentary switch in the butt. For constant on you have to twist the head though. I have the 2AA version and like everything but the beam. It is too narrow for my tastes. But I find myself carrying it more and more.

I hope this helps you make your choice.

------------------
"A knifeless man is a lifeless man"
-Nordic proverb



[This message has been edited by David Williams (edited 08 November 1999).]
 
Walt and David,

Thanx you guys for all your flashlight/battery answers. It's all starting to make sense now.
smile.gif
Walt, I don't think the lamp failure I experience with my alks is a dream. I regularly use NiCads (hate the fact that alks are so expensive in the long run). When I do use alks, the bulb seems to die out faster. But I may be wrong since I use the 2 types of batteries with the same bulb and haven't done an official test. You ever see a dead AA Mag bulb? It's weird. There's this black and silver coating inside as if the filament blew up.

------------------
ET

 
Walt, Equalizer,

I've dropped my Sure Fire on concrete a couple of times, anti-C glove in a dark, contaminated industrial building, and it has survived with nothing more than a couple of dings. I've also done the same to the Streamlight that our techs carry, without problems. For very compact, very bright lights I consider either to be outstanding performers.

For more mundane situations, changing a tire on a dark rainy night, I prefer a lantern style of a Xenon flood type using a sealed lead-acid battery that I can set down.

Regardless, I must say that I am constantly impressed with the range and level of technical expertise found on this forum. I am proud to be a member in no small way because of such folks.

Take care,

Mike Crenshaw

------------------
TANSTAAFL


 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top