The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
If you have an electronic controller, you can just program it to hold temp and ramp down slowly.Everywhere I read it says to put in vermiculite, but why can't I just let it hang in the kiln? I have an airbath that will still show above well over ambient after sitting with the lid down overnight. Am I missing a reason not to do this?
because most of the information about blacksmithing readily available to the general public is based on early-mid 20th century technology and materials understanding.Everywhere I read it says to put in vermiculite,
Thank you for that. I hadn’t really considered the variability in rates, just overall temp/time. That makes sense to me.It depends on the alloy and the cooling rate it needs. For some of the simpler Carbon steels, which are essentially water-hardening, sticking a hot blade in vermiculite will give a slow enough cooling rate, but for some of the air-hardening steels, the cooling rate needs to be *really* slow: not just switch-off-the-oven-and-let-it-cool slow, but ramp-down-over-several-hours-slow.
Note that the cooling rate is much greater when the oven is hot than when it is cooler. Conversely the heating rate is much slower at higher temperatures (which you are much more likely to have noticed).
If you don't have ramp/soak control on your oven, you can get it hotter than you'll need, switch it off and note the temperature every minute, plot it on graph paper and see what the maximum cooling rate is at the temperature you intend to anneal from. That'll tell you whether it's slow enough for any given steel.