coote belt grinder

Joined
May 3, 2004
Messages
979
Hey Guys,
How many of you have used a coote belt grinder and how do you like it?
I use a bader bm2 myself, but I'm trying to help out a friend.
Thanks,
Del
 
I have a grizzly and I whittled this one out tonight out of a piece of D2:

IMG_0856.jpg


The coote's quite similar -except that I believe the build quality may be better and the coote is upgradable. However, for a beginner, such as myself, the grizzly is cheaper and fine for the basics. :)
 
I have been using a Coote for 13 years or so and I mean use, every household fab or grinding job that comes along. I have ground out around 800 blades (profile and hollow grind) and it still is in great shape. it is the only grinder I have and don't anticipate needing to replace for a long time. Man I sound like a commercial, but it is all true...it is a great machine.
Jim
 
A very good machine. I have all the upgrades on mine and added a third Idler wheel for belt tension adjustment for the convex grinds. Also modified it to accept the 6 and 8 inch contact wheels. HTH

Jim
 
I'm a new maker and have a Coote as my primary grinder it is as solid as you can ask for and it does the job. I'm sure some day I'll be looking at a KGM but not in the near term.
 
jim moyer said:
A very good machine. I have all the upgrades on mine and added a third Idler wheel for belt tension adjustment for the convex grinds.

Jim
The coote must be modified to be able to do convex grinds?? (this is not a flame just a ?)
 
I run a coote 2X10X72. I think its a hell of a machine for the price. Its my go to grinder for all my shop needs, from knifemaking, to welding, to sharpening tools and blades for farm equipment. I'm not a full time knifemaker but I do a lot of welding and repair work for folks, and find myself using the grinder all the time, couldn't be happier with it.
I would definitely recommend getting step pulleys (I've got the 3 speed set from Norm), if not going for full out VS. And I've got a 1-1/2 hp Dayton high torque motor on it, which I also think is very good for the money. Smooth, and powerful, you can't bog it down.
 
No you don't have to modify to do convex grinds, unless you want to for the way you grind or for a particular reason. I do mostly flat grinds with convex edges, and the ocasional full convex with no problem. I would suggest a cermanic platten, but that's on just about any grinder.

I've been very happy with mine, even though I want a KMG, the Coote does so well that I'm investing in other equipment first. I have the small wheel atachments and an 8" wheel. I don't hollow grind for the most part so never needed anouther contact wheel. I like the sturdyness and ease of changing small wheels out. It's a simple and reliable grinder. I have the step pullies on it for speed control and don't realy see the need for varible speed for me.

Probably the best bang for the buck grinder out there. Of course I still want a KMG.:D
 
Tommegow said:
The coote must be modified to be able to do convex grinds?? (this is not a flame just a ?)


I just like an eye level - larger grind area and a tighter belt area for the convex grind with additional tracking capabilaties. This was an un-intentional inference that this was a necessary modification. Just my preference. My intent was to answer the original post and the versatility of the Coote belt grinder.

Jim
 
I've done convex grinds two ways on my Coote. Originally I would basically flat grind the knife, then use the slack belt area between the platen and idle wheel to grind in a convexity. This worked okay, but it took forever and the belt seemed to move around too much doing it this way, occasionally causing it to grind the side of the machine, too.

Someone gave me the advice of gluing a pad to the platen and basically just "flat grinding" like that, which would naturally produce a convexity. Neoprene with the carbon platen fabric over it would probably be ideal, but I simply used some of that cheap blue camping mattress material that I use to make Kydex sheaths on the platen with double sided tape and this actually worked pretty nicely. Occasionally the belt would grab the material and send it across the shop, so it wasn't the ideal setup, but it worked for occasional use. Again, I would flat grind the majority of the blade, then tape my pad on the platen, then finish it up like that. Pretty basic, but it worked nicely and it was a great piece of advice.
 
nice blade profile!! The handle is very close to what I am working on for my new 4.875" bladed D2 kitchen knife :)
 
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