Coote Grinder setup ?

Tx Bass Tech

Tx Bass Tech

Joined
Dec 22, 2009
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236
I have decided to get a Coote Grinder and try my hand at grinding my own blades and I have a few questions.
1. Is 1hp 1725 RPM the right motor?
2. I want a 3 step pulley. Would the ones from Beaumont Metal Works be good?
3. Is there a better way to set up the motor so you can change the speed other than using a hinged plate?
4. 8" or 10" contact wheel. I'm very new to knife making and not sure what I will need.
5. Any pictures or comments would be nice.

Thanks
 
a 1hp 1725RPM motor is sufficient as long as it's a true 1hp motor, and not one of those motors that claims to be 1hp and isnt really. You wont be able to /really/ lean into it, but I used a 1hp motor on my coote and you can do plenty of grinding.

Just make sure you match the shaft diameters properly on the pulleys, but you can buy them from Beaumont or any other reputable place. They sell Maska pulleys. Mr Coote also carries them if you ask him when you're purchasing the coote itself.

A hinged plate is really the best way to mount a motor for swappability, even my 3 speed KMG uses a hinged plate motor mount.

Honestly I would go with the 8" contact wheel on a coote. I had the 10" wheel on mine, but the coote is direct drive off of the large wheel, so the larger the wheel, the faster the belt will be moving. Running the belt a bit slower is better for control.
 
The 1 HP 1725RPM should be fine. If you wanted high speed production, the coote may not be the best choice. Slowing down a little is good for the learning curve. One of the nicest things about the Coote is how easy it is to swap out a motor when you want to.

There are probably other ways to pulley switch, but it's hard to beat the hinge for cheap and easy.

You probably want two 3 step pulleys - drive and driven - for a broader range. Coote sells one, but I suspect the beaumont offering is better quality and vibration can be an issue on the coote.

10" is a cheap upgrade when purchasing - and on the Coote, you can't really switch. Unless you are doing lots of small blades or folders that need a smaller radius, the 10" will be more versatile.

You may want to do some mods. The tool rest on the flat platen is not adjustable in and out - and it's a basic safety premise that the rest (if used) should be adjusted close eough to the platen that the work not get sucked in between.

Two wheel grinders have a tendency to vibrate - with the top end responding to the slightest vibe like the tip of a fishing rod. Mount your machine solidly and consider using a link belt for drive which may reduce vibration as well.

The Coote is designed on the premise that you can tilt it back when working on the contact wheel and vertical when working on the platen. Make sure you leave room behind it to tilt and get some long handled hex wrenches. The adjustments are something less that easy to access.

These things are dust monsters. Think about things like a bucket to collect sparks and grinding debris and perhaps get to know a good divorce lawyer.

One more thing. You may want to raise the pedestal heigh so there is more clearance between the contact wheel and your bench. I have visions of sucking loose bits or fingers into that small space with bad things happening.

Enjoy!

Rob!
 
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The only other suggestion is to watch the diameter of the drive pully attached to your *8" or 10" contact wheel, I use the step pully with a 10" and the range of speeds is fine, I usually work at the medium and high speed unless I am doing workwork which is the the low speed.

Back to the point, if you are going to hollow grind your fingers must pass by the drive pully, if that pully is too big or the contact wheel is too small you will brush the pully each time, this is not good. A 10" contact wheel with a 6" drive pully only give you 2" which is probably not enough. Also I think the 10" is the smallest you want for hollow grinding, if you are flat grinding then never mind!!
 
One more thing. If you decide to get the disc that goes on the side of the drive wheel, DO NOT try to run the machine in reverse. It becomes a 5 pound flyin' frisbe! :eek:
 
One of my mistakes: Do not use doubled 3/4" plywood for a base. It will ignite the first time you really lean into it for any length of time. At least clad the area under the contact wheel with steel plate. I recommend at least 3/8" steel plate 12" wide and as deep as you want to set the motor. An under table mount motor would sure have been nice...but I did the hinged platform. I will slip a belt before stalling my 1hp TEFC motor.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a297/cdhcmh/Knives/Coote/P4020024.jpg
 
Thanks for all the help. I plan on getting a grinder and some other tools in December when I get off the road with the band I'm working for. Next thing is, I've got to find some shop space near Austin to setup my new toys! I can't do this at my home. Anybody know of any shop space in Austin i could sublet from someone? I'll figure that part out later.
 
Are you a musician? Do you realize that no matter how careful you are you are going to nick fingers? Just a caution to protect the job that gives you your living. Frank
 
I'm a bassist. I have always been especially careful in the shop. Accidents do happen, though.
 
Frank Niro said:
Are you a musician? Do you realize that no matter how careful you are you are going to nick fingers? Just a caution to protect the job that gives you your living. Frank
Click to expand...

I'm not a musician, I'm a guitar/bass/harp tech. I setup and tune the instruments for the Leonard Cohen Band. I can't play very well at all but I love music and I figured out a way to get paid watching bands and traveling all over the world. It's almost a scam;). It looks like I won't be working for about 6-7 months and I thought it might be a good time to try and learn more about making knives and seeing if I want to persue that in the future. I'm going to try and find some shop space to work on knives and do some things related to the music business when I get off the road in December.
 
The Coote is a great entry level grinder and love mine. It got me started and I learned everything I know now from it.

I just bought a KMG and am waiting for the rest of the goodies to get here.

I will be placing my Coote up for sale probably within the next week after I get my KMG up and running.

If interested it has:

8" contact wheel
Knife Rest
Small Wheel Attach w/3 wheels
Platen with ceramic platen installed

It has been used obviously but the Coote will out live us all....great grinder for the money hands down. If you decide to buy a new one from Norm, he is a great guy to deal with and very helpful.

Either way, congrats on getting the bug....there is no turning back now sir.

Chris
 
I have the 10" version and keep wishing I had the 8". While the 10" is undoubtedly good for doing hollow grinds on 4-5inch blades, it is too large to work really well for hollow grinding tangs, or for handle shaping. I tried the 8" wheel on a friend's KMG clone and the smaller wheel made light work of handle contouring, saved a lot of time compared to what I normally have to do.

I have my grinder mounted to a bit of kitchen counter top, chip board with formica surface. I have cut out an area under the wheel and mounted a water tray there to catch the dust and sparks.

Belt tension is via a hinged motor mount. I can totally recommend using a Power Twist V-belt, it cut a lot of vibration out when I changed from the solid belt.
 
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