Coote setup?

W

Whoever Wherever

Joined
Nov 17, 2006
Messages
1,124
I searched for this first, so I hope im not beating a dead horse. From the other posts I have gathered that a TEFC 1 hp motor would be ideal and a set of step pulleys from Beaumont would be the things to get. Now please excuse my ignorance but I've never set up or run any equipment off pulleys or bands. What else do I need to set up my coote (10" wheel)? I figure a belt will of course be needed. Will the step pulleys be all that I need besides that? Do I need some sort of cog or grab wheel for the shaft on the coote? do the step pulleys attach to the motor shaft directly? Last of all is there a certain size motor shaft that is best to get from the start to avoide issues with the step pulleys? Thanks in advance. The whole belt driven grinder is a step up from the home depot do it yourself tools im used to using
 
I just set up my Coote. I purchased the pulleys along with the grinder and 10" contact wheel. You'll need 2, one for the grinder and 1 for the motor. I purchased a Harbour Freight 1 hp farm-duty motor to round it out. When you talk to Norm about purchasing the Coote, he'll send you some pictures detailing the setup. I put the motor on a small platform tied to the main platform with a piano hinge to enable easy pulley changes. Works great.

Dave
 
Pretty much like dmarx said.

Norm can supply you with step pulleys if you don't want to order them seperately. That would ensure that it matches the shaft size on your coote. You will also want to make sure you match the shaft size on your motor to the step pulley you get for it.

The rest is kind of up to you and what sort of motor you buy. I bought a motor with a run of the mill slotted base on it and fabricated a hinged base to mount it on the table behind my grinder. This way the weight of the motor provides tension for the V belt, and all I have to do is lift up on the motor to move the belt and change speeds.
If you buy a motor with a face frame, or some other mounting set up you'll have to come up with something different.
 
Thanks guys. With a better picture of what attaches to what and all the parts I'm shure I'll be able to rig it together no problem. One more question if I can, Im looking at motors at Harbor Frieght and they only carry 110, 115, 220 and 230 volt units. Isnt home electricity 120 in the U.S.? Am I just mixing things up in my head? What voltage motor would connect to my home outlets (properly grounded ones of course). I dont know much about wiring things up myself as I've never been a big fan of electrocution. Any advice in this area would be helpfull and adding to my safety. :)
 
Great thread as I am in the market for a grinder. Does anybody have pictures of their Coote setup? Also, what is the big difference between this grinder and the KMG from Beaumont Metal Works (besides price)?
 
Jim just follow the diagram on the side of the motor it will tell you how to hook it up. It might even already come with a cord and all you need to to is plug it in but most likely you will have to attach a cord to it.


One thing where things might get a bit confusing is the
different numbers people bandy about for the voltage of
a circuit. One person might talk about 110V, another 117V
or another 120V. These are all, in fact, exactly the same
thing... In North America the utility companies are required
to supply a split-phase 240 volt (+-5%) feed to your house.
This works out as two 120V +- 5% legs. Additionally, since there
are resistive voltage drops in the house wiring, it's not
unreasonable to find 120V has dropped to 110V or 240V has dropped
to 220V by the time the power reaches a wall outlet. Especially
at the end of an extension cord or long circuit run. For a number
of reasons, some historical, some simple personal preferences,
different people choose to call them by slightly different numbers.
This FAQ has chosen to be consistent with calling them "110V" and
"220V", except when actually saying what the measured voltage will
be. Confusing? A bit. Just ignore it.
 
Thanks Warrior, that makes sense. I was worried I would get something with a washingmachine plug. That makes that whole issue alot more simple.
 
Here's a pic of my setup. I used more step pulleys to have more speed variations. Yours can be much simpler. Everything is mounted to a 1/2" steel plate and can be moved (with some help) as a unit.

coote.jpg
 
nc_cooter said:
Here's a pic of my setup. I used more step pulleys to have more speed variations. Yours can be much simpler. Everything is mounted to a 1/2" steel plate and can be moved (with some help) as a unit.

coote.jpg
Click to expand...

Thanks for the picture. It clarifies what I'd been thinking about doing when I ge the cash to purchase a Coote grinder. With the way you have your belts set up, would it not get you even more speads and contol with two sets of step pullies, similar to whats in some of the larger drill presses?

I deal with large capacity motors and what not in air handlers but still have not soaked up a complete understanding of how all the pully/belt relationships work in the real world.

thanks,
Patrick
 
The pulley thing is fairly simple. The ratio of their circumference, is the same as their speed ratio. Since the circumference is 3.14X diameter, you could also just say its a ratio of their diameter.
Say I have a 2 inch pulley on my motor spinning at 1725 rpm. It is hooked to a 4 inch pulley on the grinder. 2/4= .5 .....so the pulley on the grinder is turning at half the speed of the pulley on the motor or 862.5 rpm.

Then I can relate that to belt speed. The contact wheel is 10" in diameter, so the circumference is 31.41 inches or about 2.6 ft. So for each revolution the belt travels 2.6 feet. 2.6 ft/revolution X862.5 revolutions/minute=2258ft/min.

You can figure this out for any combination of pulleys you want, its just a matter of starting at the motor so you have a known speed, and working your way through to the grinder.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top